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Unread 09-27-2002, 03:53 PM   #1
Nickdread
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Hello,

Brand spanking new to this forum. Have found it very informative, and at times, ammusing so far....anyways
im getting ready to travel to SF to set marble in an old Victorian. They are installing a heated floor system that i am suppost to incase in my float. Having never done this specific thing before, are there any recommendations to be made to avoid any unnessassary problems? As i understand it the system consists of durable plastic tubing that snakes around the floor. Not sure if i will be able to run lath underneath it or not at this point.
Any info would be appreciated.
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Unread 09-27-2002, 04:20 PM   #2
tileguytodd
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You probobly wont be able to because they generally anchor the tubing.(same goes with electric cable units.
Generally we install the mesh before the tubing& or cable goes in.What type of Mud are you using to float.Sand Mix or SLC???
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Unread 09-27-2002, 04:28 PM   #3
John Bridge
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Welcome aboard, Nick,

Would you be able to run lath over the top and staple it between the heating tubes?
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Unread 09-27-2002, 05:02 PM   #4
Nickdread
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Thanks for responding so fast. Well i havent seen the job as of yet, and was planning to use sand/portland mix. I will advise the General Contractor to run mesh under system.
Anything eles i should consider? Whats the minimum mud allowance above the top of the tub/system?

Regards,

Ron
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Unread 09-27-2002, 05:36 PM   #5
John Bridge
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Ron,

You'd better hope the floor structure supports the installation. With the tubes running through, you may just be doing cosmetics. When you see the job, let us know. We've had some experience with heated floors. In fact, out official moderator/hostess, Cami, has done it in the house she and her husband are building. They did a concrete pour, but it's the same thing, really.

BTW, this belongs in the Pro Hangout. I'll leave it here for now, and the next time I run across it I'll move it over there. You'll find it.
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Unread 09-27-2002, 05:56 PM   #6
Nickdread
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The house was gutted and they added one story (only way to get more room in San Francisco) with necessary steel/reinforcement done. This kinda thing is old hat for the General so im not worried about the structral integrity of the sub-floor. Would love to here anymore info those with experience w/heated floor systems have to offer.

Great site man.

Regards,

Ron aka "nickdread"
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Unread 09-27-2002, 06:47 PM   #7
tilemanct
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Have run into this more than once. The tileman is supposed to come up with the soloution the architect never thought about. Did the heating contractor place the tube on a membrane or is it on raw plywood? How thick will your mud be? We usually ran into the tubing stapled onto raw plywood. Our floats were 2" thick. What we did was to first mix a soloution of latex (Mapei Planicrete 50) & water.Put in a 5 gal outdoor sprayer. Spray all the ply & tube. This killed the suction of the ply. Next we used flat sheet wire over the tube (2 x 2 smooth gal) It was then time to mud. Make sure you get the wire in the middle of the float. That is where it does its best job. We also mixed in tiny fiberglass fibers in the drypac for extra added insurance. Let the mud job cure. This is the most important step in tile or stone on radiant heat. INSTALL A ANTI FRACTURE MEMBRANE!!! We used Schluter Dittra. If thickness is an issue, we have also used Hydroments Ultra Set membrane. Very messy to work with. Have never had a callback or problem.
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Unread 09-27-2002, 08:40 PM   #8
Cami A
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Hi, Ron. I'm the one with the radiant floor. If you've never seen one, here's what you might be facing:



The tubing for infloor heat usually ranges from 1/2 to 7/8 in. Or....the tubing could be laid in grooves in the subfloor.
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Unread 09-27-2002, 11:30 PM   #9
Nickdread
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Thanks guys,

I feel a bit more grounded now w/some info.
I'll let ya know how it goes.

Ron
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Unread 09-28-2002, 04:31 PM   #10
Bri
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Hi
I would just like to 2nd the motion..on the DITRA that is...great way to go on top of a heated floor.
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Unread 09-28-2002, 06:35 PM   #11
John Bridge
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Hey Tileman,

Sounds like you know your way around mud. Please tell us a little about yourself and give us a name, too.

Ron,

Do you have a website? Netstone? Or is that your last name? I'm not trying to be funny, just nosey.
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Unread 09-28-2002, 06:54 PM   #12
Nickdread
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Yeah i have one that i made myself a few years ago....composed mostly of robbed html off the net, I'm having a professional re-vamp it soon thereby refelecting the true jeneeous, that is me.
anyways.... http://www.tiletex.com
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Unread 09-28-2002, 07:32 PM   #13
John Bridge
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Ron,

You can make a link to your site in a "signature" that appears at the bottom of each post you make, or I can do it for you. Let me know.

Oh, and one more thing. We don't steal HTML off the Internet. We "lift" it.
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Unread 09-28-2002, 07:54 PM   #14
Nickdread
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Smile

yeah i saw that, was going to re-vamp web-site before posting hehe....didnt want to get banned for offering "green-board applications", and faux pas assosiated with robbing er...lifting html then proofreading quickly and, of course, letting my FTTP program expire before necessary changes could be made.
But the cats outta the bag now...let the flaming commence.

*ducks*
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Unread 09-30-2002, 06:49 AM   #15
Dave Gobis
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I am kinda short on time at the moment, have to go to MN and look at 900 of heated limestone that failed. Suspect they didn't use an antifracture membrane on top. There is no "rule" on this but it certainly is advisable. There is denfinetly thermal variation causing differential stress. Stone is much more affected than tile due to it's structure. The industry recommendation is screed the tubes flush and then install a clevage membrane with a wire reinforced mortar bed. Gets a little thick but I have never seen one come apart.
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