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Unread 05-30-2010, 11:24 PM   #1
Winter River
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Elise's new bathroom

First, a thank you to everyone who has shared projects, asked questions, and, most important, answered question. Until now, I've found many detailed answers to all my dilemmas.

I'm building a shelf, laminating two pieces of stone along the edge, as inspired by Uncle Dave's Homemade Stone Soap Shelves. This shelf is more like a shallow bench, overlapping the wall below by about an inch. I know that exterior window sills include a kerf cut so that water drips from the edge of the sill instead of wicking back and behind the siding. Should make a similar kerf cut in the bench top so the water doesn't follow the bottom of the bench and go behind the tile? Or am I overthinking this detail?

Also, the tile on the left is wet, the one on the right is dry. While I may be able to hone this cut/laminated edge more, I think an enhancer will improve the look. I have some 511, but a test sample showed that it did not change the look of the stone, just as it claimed. I'd appreciate any recommendations on an enhancer.
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Unread 05-31-2010, 01:36 AM   #2
Deckert
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Don't worry about a special edge treatment on that bench top. It looks great as is, and as long as your waterproofing was done correctly you don't worry about water running down the wall.

As far as enhancers go I like 511 Seal and Enhance.
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Unread 05-31-2010, 10:39 AM   #3
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What Brannigan said

Add a nice looking bead of 100% silicone and you'll be in great shape
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Unread 05-31-2010, 10:07 PM   #4
Winter River
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Thanks. I guessed that since a kerf cut for a drip edge wasn't mentioned anywhere, it wasn't necessary, but it never hurts to ask. I'm a little paranoid about water, given the rotten mess that was the old bathroom.

Next question: Due to some planning and some luck, the top rail trim is at the same height as the window sill. I want to have a nice looking transition between the trim tile and the window sill. The apron is a simple 1x5 trim board. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to handle this detail?

Here's the tiling on the other side of the bathroom. A pic of the window would be a bit useless since it's torn apart and has an air conditioner jury-rigged into it.
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Unread 06-01-2010, 07:49 AM   #5
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Elise,

So you say the sil is at the same height. As for the apron, you don't really need it when you have tile under a sil. When doing tile in kitchen splashes I always remover the apron so you get get more tile there. Not sure exactly how your chair rail is gonna hit near the sil but just maybe your sil could line up to form the top of the chair rail, or something like that. I don't know exactly how its gonna hit that area and you say its all torn up, so it may work out.

I like that base tile, is it two pieces or one? Thats a really nice job there, you doing all of it?
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Unread 06-01-2010, 12:05 PM   #6
Winter River
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I keep going back and forth on the window sill thing. I guess I'll have to mock up both the completely tile option and the wood apron and sill option.

Thanks for the vote of confidence. Yes, I'm doing it all myself.

The base is two pieces, with the cove backed by an extra strip of 1/4" backer board.
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Unread 06-01-2010, 04:36 PM   #7
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Design and install looks really nice Elise.
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Unread 06-01-2010, 08:28 PM   #8
Winter River
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Thanks, Dana.
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Unread 06-18-2010, 06:41 PM   #9
Winter River
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The project is coming along. I just have a few more tiles to cut and install in the shower and the sink cabinet to install and tile around. Should only take me a few more weeks

My latest request is for white grout recommendations. What is your favorite grout that will stay white for a while given reasonable care?

While I love the look of a gray or tan grout with subway tiles, my installation is not quite perfect enough to highlight all the grout lines. So white grout it is for the walls and shower area, about 110 sq feet total.

Thanks for any suggestions.
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Unread 06-18-2010, 11:22 PM   #10
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IMHO the only white grout that stays white is epoxy such as spectralock.
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Unread 06-20-2010, 12:58 PM   #11
Winter River
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Ah, so no good less expensive secret formulas that work. Never hurts to ask. Spectralock it is. Thanks.
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Unread 06-20-2010, 01:24 PM   #12
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There are others, but i have used them all and by far spectralock is the way to go. I find it gives consistent excellent results and is easier to use.
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Unread 06-25-2010, 01:57 PM   #13
Winter River
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Having read on another thread that someone's white grout was making their white floor look beige, I tested the spectralock bright white grout with my white tiles. I would call it neither bright nor white. Really, it's a light gray. It does match the store sample exactly, and against anything other than white would probably look white.

Seeing that, I looked at the other light colors and tried almond. It's about as dark as the bright white, but has a tan tinge instead of gray. I'm considering the almond since it is warmer and blends with the floor tile better. Still, I'd like something that is actually white.

Is there a good epoxy grout that is actually white?
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Unread 06-25-2010, 02:00 PM   #14
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Try mapei avalanche. Its reallllly white.
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Unread 06-25-2010, 06:41 PM   #15
Winter River
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Thanks, I'll try that. I think I found a local place that carries it.

I guess you mean Opticolor, but it could be Kerapoxy. Either will work with my 1/16 spacing.
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