Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Unread 02-20-2008, 02:20 PM   #1
raetzsch
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Near Houston
Posts: 13
Alvin's Bathroom Remodel

First, let me say great forum...awesome group that i'm thankful can help me out (hopefully) along the way.

tiling our bathroom floor (tub surround later) and wanted to ask if you guys think i'm doing ok with the subfloor. The area is only ~35 sq ft, and the walking area only ~21.

For joists that are SYP or Douglas Fir, in good condition, 7.25 inches tall, 1.5 inches wide, 24 inches on center, and 8 feet long between supports, the deflection calculated is 0.176 inches.

This translates to a deflection of L / 545.
House built in '35, and the inspector said she couldn't find a variation of greater than 1/2 inch in 1600 sq ft of oak floors, so things sound pretty solid.

There's 1x8 diag planking, and was planning on adding 1/2 inch BC, as instructed by Ditra, which i will be using on the ply.

As the deflectometer says, i should be fine. my only concern is that i'm laying 18 inch tiles...are they that different than 12's, is the deflection data just as valid?

PS: can anyone recommend a place to order the ditra tape (i'm assuming i should use it on a bathroom floor), as HD didn't have any?
__________________
Alvin
Columbus, TX

Last edited by raetzsch; 02-20-2008 at 06:31 PM.
raetzsch is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Unread 02-20-2008, 03:27 PM   #2
bbcamp
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 30,274
Alvin, there isn't any difference in the structural requirements for big tile, just flatness. You'll want no more variation than 1/8" out of plane in any 10 foot direction. This is to make it easier to set the tiles with little lippage.

Order on-line at www.tile-experts.com.
bbcamp is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-20-2008, 04:13 PM   #3
John Bridge
Mudmeister
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Rosanky, Texas
Posts: 68,024
Send a message via AIM to John Bridge
Hi Alvin,

What Bob said. If the floor is pretty flat you're in good shape.
John Bridge is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-20-2008, 05:31 PM   #4
raetzsch
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Near Houston
Posts: 13
Thanks guys, feel much better now.

So how necessary is banding the ditra together and/or at the walls for a bathroom floor? Does it make a difference in everyday use, or is it as implied in the Ditra manual for unplanned situations such as overflows, etc?
__________________
Alvin
Columbus, TX
raetzsch is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-21-2008, 09:47 AM   #5
Mike2
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: LaConner, Washington
Posts: 13,694
Alvin, in a typical bathroom waterproofing the floor outside the shower including all the Ditra seams and floor-to-wall connections serves no practical purpose. You could spend a lot of unnecessary time and money doing that only to discover that during an unexpected flood, the water simply flows right through the doorways.

Mike2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-24-2008, 02:01 PM   #6
raetzsch
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Near Houston
Posts: 13
leveling the subfloor

I've pulled up all the luan and have patched the rotten areas with 3/4 ply, and now have a small problem. The ply is 23/32, and the planks are 3/4 (minimum, may be a 16th or so thicker being old lumber, like all my studs are). What's the best way to level, considering that i'm putting 18" tile down...putting 1/2 ply on this followed by Ditra.

PS: Can someone rename my thread to Alvin's bathroom remodel or the like? Thanks.
Attached Images
 
__________________
Alvin
Columbus, TX
raetzsch is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-24-2008, 02:09 PM   #7
cx
Moderator emeritus
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 90,951
Well, I would have recommended you use full-length shims on those joists before you installed the plywood, Alvin. Or sistered them to raise the tops enough to make you plywood level. Tough to add an eighth inch to the top of that sheet.

My opinion; worth price charged.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-24-2008, 02:13 PM   #8
raetzsch
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Near Houston
Posts: 13
Thanks CX

Guess i should add that the ply is not screwed down yet

So is that the best way to go? what's easy to find that i can use to shim a 1/16?
__________________
Alvin
Columbus, TX
raetzsch is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-25-2008, 09:06 AM   #9
cx
Moderator emeritus
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 90,951
Didn't notice that it was only a sixteenth, Alvin. Only good shims I know of for that thickness are sheetrock shims. I would maybe take a chance on those if that's not a ground floor, but I generally prefer to scab on some boards to level/flatten anything on a subfloor. Gonna be pretty easy in your situation.

My opinion; worth price charged.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-25-2008, 09:33 AM   #10
Maack
Registered User
 
Maack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 579
Heres an easy way:

Just go get some 15# felt roofing paper,
cut it into strips to lay on top of the joists,
experiment,, make a small test piece of the 3/4" ply,

use 1 layer,,maybe 2 layers of strips, that ought to bring you up 1/16"., tack it down with staples, then just refasten down your 3/4" ply.
make sure your 1x8 sheathing boards are tightly secured down as well before you test your height variances.

__________________
Maack
Pro remodeler
N. Virginia
Maack is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-29-2008, 04:30 PM   #11
raetzsch
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Near Houston
Posts: 13
Toilet flange issue

Got the subfloor down and within 1/8 for the entire bathroom.

Now on to the toilet. I have a 4" CI drain with a lead flange, lead was torn, so need to get it out. Bought one the Oatey expansion flanges that will seal up in the CI, but first I need to get that inner collar out...any best way(s) to get that loose/break it up?

my drain and the oatey expansion flange:
__________________
Alvin
Columbus, TX

Last edited by raetzsch; 03-04-2008 at 03:15 PM.
raetzsch is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-01-2008, 02:18 PM   #12
raetzsch
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Near Houston
Posts: 13
bump
__________________
Alvin
Columbus, TX
raetzsch is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-01-2008, 04:10 PM   #13
Maack
Registered User
 
Maack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 579
Flame....

Typically, a plumber would fire up a MAPP gas torch, heat up that lead and scrape the softened lead down the the top edge of the CI.

You can't do that cause of the wooden floor structure and the risk of fire,
so............

I would simply use a old sharp wood chisel,(when it goes dull on you, just put the edge to a grinder and resharpen it) and keep skimming off thin layers of the lead, lil by lil till your down to the edge of the CI,
looks to me like about an hours worth of hammering and chiseling..
Stuff an old towel down the CI to prevent lead pieces and tools from falling in, and sewer gas from coming up outta that pipe.

Plumbers carry a few old chisels for just such things.
I can't quite tell from the photo, but do you believe you have enough surface of that plywood to have a place to anchor your toilet flange screws into?

hope that helps??

Good luck!
__________________
Maack
Pro remodeler
N. Virginia

Last edited by Maack; 03-01-2008 at 05:17 PM.
Maack is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-04-2008, 03:14 PM   #14
raetzsch
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Near Houston
Posts: 13
Thanks Maack, it's done and sealed.

Layout question. I will have 4 tiles and a 7 inch left over (18 inch tiles) b/w the tub and door. I can obviously shift and have two 12 1/2 inch tiles, one by tub, one by door. Is this the right choice bar none? The tile will be about 1/4 higher than the oak in the hall, so i will have a reducer of some kind at the doorway...just don't know if it will be covering the edge of the tile or not (prefer not, just butting up against it).

Any recommendations?
__________________
Alvin
Columbus, TX
raetzsch is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-04-2008, 03:44 PM   #15
cx
Moderator emeritus
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 90,951
It is always correct to have no cut smaller than one half of a full tile, Alvin. If that doesn't "look" right, do it differently. But that's the industry standard.

I always make my reducers from tile to wood such that they butt up to (but with appropriate gap) the tile and are flush with the top.

My opinion; worth price charged.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:36 PM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC