James' downstairs full remodel

[cwheel]

Thanks everyone for the help on my upstairs bathroom project. A year later, it's finally done (there is a link to thread in my signature).

I've now turned my attention to the downstairs (of my split level ranch). I'll be doing a full remodel of everything, including building a main TV area and remodelling the existing bathroom, utlity room, and bedroom. It will all have tile of some sort!

My first task was to remove the existing vinyl tile that covered the basement...pretty easy to get the old tiles off, but I had a question about cleaning the black tar underneath. Paint thinner gets this stuff off REALLY easily, but it stinks, and I get the feeling that the slab might be asorbing some of the "juice" that is created when the paint thinner mixes with the tar. Is there a less volatile way to remove the tar other than scraping or paint thinner / kerosene?

An interesting side note is that one of the posts in my basement was actually set into the dirt below the slab (See pic). I always thought that builders created the block wall, then poured the basement slab, and THEN put up posts to support the upper floor of the structure. I guess that wasn't the process with my house.

[ceramictec]

actually up in NJ where I am from most do framing, etc and then pump the cement to do the floor through the basement window.
when I started out in construction years ago I was amazed at that myself. but I guess when the weather is bad it's a good thing.

your tile you removed looks like VAT, (vinyl asbestos tile) * are they 9"x9" ?

try keeping the dust down if you can. the black glue is cutback.
here is an article to help you with the thin set over the cutback.

Cutback Residue and Carpet Adhesive Removal.

to me you look good on what you have removed.

[cwheel]

Thanks! And yes, the tiles were 9"x9". They were actually covered with another round of 12"x12" tiles at some point. So it sounds like I might have a 12"x12" vinyl tile layer installed over 9"x9" VAT installed with cutback?

The link to the article is good, because it confirms what I was afraid of...using chemicals to remove the tar drives "bond-breaking" residue into the slab. Not good for tiling, and probably not good for smells either.

[Mike2]

I have an article in the Liberry titled: Removal of Resilient Floor Coverings published by the Resilient Floor Covering Institute on their recommended practices dealing with VAT and cutback adhesive. They have a wet method using water and liquid dish washing detergent you might want to try. A lot of other information in there as well you might find useful.

[dgunnels]

It will all have tile of some sort!

I think we have created a monster!

[cwheel]

It's been a while, but here are some updated pics. Sorry about the crummy "yellow" tint to all of them...my picture taking skills aren't the best.

[cwheel]

Next up is tiling the hearth...I have a question about fire resistance in this area. Currently, I have a brick facade...I was going to tile over that, and install a wood stove insert, and I think everything up to that point would be to code (assuming by mantle width is sized based on the distance above the top of the stove, and assuming I route the flue correctly).

However, I'm considering bumping out the face of the hearth so that it is NOT level with the adjacent drywall. Currently that is how it is, and I think a bump out will help define the hearth better. My question is, I want to bump it out about 4" (stud depth). But I'm guessing that wood studs is a bad idea in this area. Can I use metal studs? Can I cover the studs with hardibacker? Their website says it is non-combustible, so I *think* this would work. If not, does anyone have a better idea?

Thanks!

[cwheel]

Does anyone know if metal studs with hardibacker can be installed directly adjacent to a fireplace / woodstove?