James' shower project

[cwheel]

I've been reading this forum for a while in preparation for my bathroom renovation. I've never been to a forum where people are so quick to answer and helpful, so thank you!

My wife and I bought a 1960s home, and I've got the existing upstairs bathroom down to studs and plywood. I'm using the pre-pitch / quick-pitch setup to float the mud bed for our tiled shower.

First off, let me say that mudding is actually pretty fun! I just got done doing the pre-pitch preslope bed, and had a quick question: I used a dry mud pack as instructed, but my finished product doesn't look quite as "wet" as the how-to video on the pre-pitch website. Can I just add a little water to it (similar to what you do with the actual mud bed layer)? Especially near the drain? For reference, my preslope used about 40 lbs of the sanding concrete mix, 20 lbs of additional sand, and just under a gallon of water.

Here's the link to the video for those interested:

http://www.quick-pitch.com/install_shower_floor.html


Here's a few pics of the before and after...

[RedRock]

If the slope is already "dry" the extra water doesn't really matter at this point. More importantly is that your mud was packed tight enough so it won't fall apart or crack. From the looks of your photo, you should be fine.

Glad your having fun. Keep up the good spirits and the rest of your shower will go great! Make sure you post your after-after pictures when the project is completed. Its nice to see other people's success.

[mporter52]

Ok, where was that link 6 months ago?? That system would have made my shower pan MUCH easier.

Oh, well.

Mike

[cwheel]

Another quick question: I bought the alkali-based tape for the hardi-board seams...do I use regular drywall compound in combination with this, or do I have to use some sort of waterproof spackle?

Thanks in advance

-James

[ddmoit]

Don't use drywall compound, use thinset instead. You can tape at the same time that you set tile.

[cwheel]

I've made some progress the past week, and have finished the vapor barrier, hardiboard, niches, and 1-1/2" mud deck install (see picture below). I'm about to start installing the shower floor and wall tiles (Five Elements pebble tiles on part of the floor, and Vallelunga Villa Adriana porcelain tiles on the rest of the floor and wall - in the 6x6 variety). I've been reading up on thinsets, and will probably go with the Laticrete 317 blend from Lowes. I used that for my kitchen floor 12x12 tiles (with the 333 additive), and it worked great.

My question is whether or not to use the 333 additive again for the bathroom. In addition to the 6x6 wall tiles and pebble floor tiles, I also have 12x12 floor tiles, 3x6 tiles, and even 3/4" mosaic tiles throughout the rest of the bathroom.

Some people say to skip the 333 additive. My wallet has also told me the same. Any suggestions? The pebble tile install guidelines doesn't say it prefers modified or unmodified.

Thanks in advance!

-James

[Marge]

James, great progress. Thanks for sharing pitchers with us! And share some more later.

[the Pelon]

not to sound like a moron, but does this floor system not require a liner and an additional mud bed prior to tile. If I am looking at the photo's correctly, it looks like the screed sticks are placed right over plywood and then the pre-slope is applied. Am I missing something???

[cwheel]

sorry I wasn't more clear - the first set of pics are the screed sticks for the pre-slope (called "pre-pitch"). I put the liner down on top of that, but just didn't take any pictures. The second set of pictures is after I put down the 1-1/2" mud bed using the "quick-pitch" screed sticks.

Marge, I'll definitely take more pictures and update as I'm finished tiling / grouting / etc.

[the Pelon]

so James there are 2 sets of "sticks" required? You first lay out the "pre pitch" sticks, mud the floor. Then add the liner, place the other set of sticks down and then add the final mud bed? Did the liner go in before you put the CBU on the walls?

[cwheel]

exactly...pre-pitch adds the 1/4" pitch, and the quick-pitch just adds the thickness. The CBU went in after the shower liner, but before the final mud bed.

[cwheel]

Just a bump for my earlier question...

Any recommendations on the worth of adding Laticrete 333 additive to the base 317 thinset? I will be using it for the shower floor tile, shower wall tiles, and the remainder of the bathroom tiling. Everything from small mosaics up to 12x12 tiles.

Thanks

-James

[cwheel]

I need some design guidance (all opinions welcome).

On the floor of the main bathroom area, I am lining the perimeter with 12x12 tiles, and recessing 3x6 bricks inside of them. However, because of the tile dimensions, and necessary spacing of the joints, the joint widths are not the same everywhere. The 12x12 tiles have 1/4" spacing, while the bricks have 1/8". I've laid this out, and the difference doesn't bother me. However, I'm having a tough time picking between the following two layouts. The problem with layout #1 is that the joints of the brick grid match up with the joints of the 12x12s, which mean the difference between the joint widths is much more evident, because you have an 1/8" joint running right into a 1/4" joint. In addition, the central brick area is not symmetric. Layout #2 solves both of these problems (no 1/8" joints meet 1/4" joints, and the brick grid is exactly symmetric). However, I've got half tiles at the top and bottom of the brick grid - I can't decide if I like this or not.

I'm having trouble picking the lesser of two evils.

Please let me know which one you prefer! Any suggestions are welcome.

[Davy]

I'd probably go with the top one and not worry about the two different joint sizes in line. Are you sure it will work out like you have it layed out? Full 12x12 pieces? So many times we have to go into a doorway a few inches which makes a cut piece along the wall. That or have a skinny cut in the doorway which I don't like doing.

[sandbagger]

what Davy said - another vote for #1. that grout line change is a lot less noticeable than those skinny tiles.