Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Unread 03-28-2007, 07:48 AM   #1
barryd
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 2
Tiling Outside Corners

First, this is an awesome forum and has given me a lot of confidence in taking on my bathroom tiling job...first tiling project for me. What started out with my wife wanting a new vanity and bathtub and some paint ended up being a total gutting right down to the studs. I'm almost there and entering the tiling stage.

I'm using 12x12 ceramic tile 1/4 inch thick with 3/16 spacings. I'm tiling the floor and halfway up the wall as well as the drop-in tub "island"...not really an island, more like a penninsula as it butts against the wall on one end and one side so two sides need to be done.

I hope this hasn't been discussed, likely has but searches didn't get me what I needed so here goes:

On the "island" where the long side meets the end, there is an outside corner. I am uncertain as to how to tackle an outside corner. Should I simply try to get the spacing close to 3/16" and then grout the outside corner so it is more uniform with the rest of the job? If so, is it difficult to grout an outside corner (technique?). Or, am I better off caulking it with a silicone caulk. The other option is to butt the tiles against each other so there is no space on the outside corner and then merely put a very small bead of clear silicone in the tiny crack between tiles?

Thanks
BarryD
barryd is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Unread 03-28-2007, 08:02 AM   #2
prashster
Registered User
 
prashster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 821
If it were me...

I'd run one of the tiles 1/4" over the edge. Then I'd tile the abutting side of the island 3/16" from the lip of the overhanging tile. I'd grout the gap. To do this, you have to address the edge of the overhanging tile. You might be able to buy bullnosed tiles in yr style. If not, you might be able to make them yourself with a grinder and sandpaper if yr tile has throughbody color (easier than it sounds). If not, you might at least be able to sand down to the sharp corner just enough to create an 'easy edge'.

If none of these options works for you, Schluter Systems makes transition profiles (I think the prod name is 'jolly' or 'rondec') that handle outside corner xitions.

I'd only use caulk on an inside corner.
__________________
Shawn
Chronic DIYer
prashster is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-28-2007, 11:35 AM   #3
barryd
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 2
Thanks, Schluter stuff looks good

Thanks for the advice. My tile isn't color-through so with the help of the link the schluter systems on these forum pages, I found the local dealer and even though I live in a small town in central Ontario, a store caries the stuff...they only have short little samples but enough to pick out a color and profile that I like.

Thanks again.

BarryD
barryd is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-28-2007, 11:11 PM   #4
Tool Guy - Kg
Moderator -- Wisconsin Kitchen & Bath Remodeler
 
Tool Guy - Kg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 23,098
Hi BarryD,

You could also use a trick of using the field tiles and back-mitering them to remove some material so the 2 tiles can be installed pretty close to each other at the corners. This small gap is then grouted. Whenever I have a tile that bullnoses aren't an option....or I want a pattern to wrap around the corner un-interrupted, I use this technique.

If possible, use full tiles starting at the corners. The edges of your tiles have a slight rounding to the edges and while you can't see it in the drawing I made, it's important to not back-miter too deep where you'd disturb the rounding. Stopping the back-mitering a little short (see the little flat spot) maintains the factory look of the tiles.
Attached Images
 
__________________
Tonto Goldstein... but my friends call me Bubba

Help an awesome summer camp!
Tool Guy - Kg is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-12-2009, 03:01 PM   #5
Didz
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 13
outside corners

I am about to do more glass mosaic tile on my backsplash and have an outside corner to deal with. Can I not just let glass tile overhang the outside corner by about the thickness of the tile and return the corner with another tile? I see someone suggested to miter corner, that is extremly hard with glass.
Didz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-12-2009, 04:35 PM   #6
Houston Remodeler
Pondering retirement daily

STAR Senior Contributor

 
Houston Remodeler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 28,235
You need a bunch of specialized tools to back miter glass. If the side edge of the glass tiled is cosmetically OK, then overlapping is just fine.
__________________
Paul1

For when DIY isn't such a good idea...
Houston TX area Kitchen & Bath Remodeling


http://CabotAndRowe.com
Houston Remodeler is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:05 PM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC