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Unread 03-03-2007, 02:37 PM   #1
Scott Bucks
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Can I use old wetbed?

I am going to redo, using 12x12 ceramic tiles, my 2nd floor master bathroom, which is 23 years old. Forgive me if my terminology is off. I removed the existing 1 inch tiles and I believe I am down to the wet bed. The concrete appears to be in fair shape. A few divots, probably from my chisel and no large cracks. A few small hairline cracks. Can I tile directly over this and avoid removing the wet bed? And, some of the honeycomb/criss cross paper backing from the tile is embeded in the concrete - will new tile cement adhere to this? Thanks.

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Unread 03-03-2007, 04:33 PM   #2
Scooter
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Its a mud bed, and yes you can re-use it. Try to clean the old adhesive up as much as you can with a floor scraper. That stuff is called "cut back."
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Unread 03-04-2007, 06:01 PM   #3
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Thanks Scooter- I was reading other posts and I also did the "bounce" test and all went well. I tried to scrape the papaer backing out and not a lot came up, so I am hoping it will be OK. I was thinking about making a quick pass with a dremal.

Should I fill the divots as I tile or far enough in advance that the cement will dry? Scott
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Unread 03-04-2007, 09:50 PM   #4
Tool Guy - Kg
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Welcome, Scott.

Those hairline cracks grabbed my attention. Did you happen to notice if there was ANY cracking of any groutlines anywhere before you removed those mosaic tiles?

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Unread 03-05-2007, 05:20 PM   #5
Scott Bucks
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Hi Tool Guy-

There was absolutely no cracking in the grout lines. With the exception of one crack, I really have to look hard to find them. There are only a few divots, althought around the toilet soil pipe and in one corner I will have to add cement.

It occurred to me last night that when I remove the shower pan I may end up damaging the mud bed and have to remove it anyway.

My reluctance at removing the mud bed is that I seem to create more work for myself than I sometimes need to do. And, because the tile in the master bath and the bathroom on the opposite side of the room had good, uncracked floors, I thought I could skip the extra work. Also, I seem to see new houses with cracked tiles in them so I thought if the old floor was good, don't mess with it.
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Unread 04-08-2007, 09:14 PM   #6
Scott Bucks
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shower door options

Hello- I removed the old shower pan and am looking at door options for a 48 x34 or possibly 54x34 shower pan. Are there door options aside from twin slider doors? Is there a door system that uses a door that swings out (like a regular door)?

Also, if I deal with a 54 inch shower pan, it seems as if the twin slider doors are special orders at Lowes and HomeDepot and would cost noticebly more than a door system for a 48 inch pan. Is this true? Scott
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Unread 04-08-2007, 09:22 PM   #7
sandbagger
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check out Wilson Glass. Lots of different configurations to look at.
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Unread 04-10-2007, 07:31 AM   #8
Scott Bucks
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Shower Door Option

Thanks for the info. I am going to look for other glass companies near me as well. Scott
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Unread 04-11-2007, 05:58 AM   #9
Scott Bucks
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Shower walls and studs

Hi- More shower questions.

1. My shower had tile going up the wall to about 6 feet high and then painted drywall the remaining 2 feet. When I removed the tiles, I cut out the tiled sections oft he wall and kept the 2 feet of drywall going to the ceiling. I plan on using CBU and want to place it up to the drywall and then seam the CBU and drywall together. I want to avoide tearing out all of the drywall. Does this make sense?

2. The studs are 2x3 and not 2x4. How big of a problem is this? I read on the Hardibacker website that they want 2x4s.

3. The 2x3s are in good shape expcet for 2 which have some cracking, but no bowing or any sign of distress. The old tile was sound na dnot cracked. Walls were firm. Problem?

4. I have been reading about and looking at niches. These also seem to be based on 2x4s. The wall wear the niche would be actually has some access space. Can I build another frame behinds my 2x3 to extend it out so it would be bigger?

Thanks! Scott
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Unread 04-11-2007, 07:08 PM   #10
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Scott, there should be no problem stopping the CBU short of the ceiling. I don't see a problem per se with the 2x3's. Can't comment on the condition of the two studs with cracks without seeing them or your ability to build out the wall for the niche. You would be the best judge of that.

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Unread 04-12-2007, 06:00 PM   #11
Scott Bucks
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Deflecto

Thanks Mike. This site is very helpful!

Question about deflecto. How do I know the joist lenght? I could not see how far it went. In the basement it was 13 feet, but I am dealing with the 2nd floor. Does length remain constant as long as the size/preimeter/shape of the house stays the same (with the exception of height).

Also, how do I determine the material used for the floor? It is 5/8 th inch wood. I would refer to it as plywood. It is not particle board. Does that mean it is douglas? Thanks!
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Unread 04-12-2007, 06:36 PM   #12
Davestone
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Douglas fir refers to wood type used in joists.The plywood is considered the subfloor.The joists will run from one end of the house to the other,what is on top the joists doesn't matter cause the joist is supporting them,it's what's supporting the joists that increases the strength.like the shortness of the span, or length of the joists running in midair,unsupported.
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Unread 04-12-2007, 06:57 PM   #13
Scott Bucks
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Deflecto

I guess I still don't get it. The width of the entire house is 27 feet. How do I know what and where the joist is supported? If the floor previously supported a tile floor, would this continue to be true for the next floor?
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Unread 04-12-2007, 07:05 PM   #14
CupanTilePaint
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I believe Davestone is querrying a deflection issue with the floor joists

How long do they span and how far apart are they spaced?
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Unread 04-12-2007, 07:06 PM   #15
Davestone
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You'll have to look UNDER the flooring joists.The joists will run the entire length of the house or be supported at some point, which will shorten it's span.Think of a board laying on top of two blocks on the ground,that's essentially what the joist are doing.Even if it had a tile floor before, it doesn't mean it will support one without cracking now....http://www.hometips.com/hyhw/structure/116frame.html
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