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Unread 01-04-2003, 07:36 AM   #1
Eric N.
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Question shower pan liner dam

Howdy,

I had one of those greenboard-mastic-tile shower enclosures that they used to build here in Houston. Not anymore....I ripped it out cause it was leaking and now am in the process of rebuilding it along with a tub surround.

This site has been my primary source of info along with John's and MB's books. Thanks for such a great resource.

I have successfully presloped the shower floor and now trying to fit the shower pan liner. I followed the instructions in MB's book on how to do it, but the curb on my new shower goes from one wall to another. In the book the shower curb goes between two jams that are inset from the wall. I'm doing some head scratching because the preformed liner dams do not appear appropriate for my situation.
I noticed the pic on this page http://www.johnbridge.com/shower_curbs.htm shows a curb like mine and the dam looks to be homemade from shower pan liner. I tried doin the same but cant get a patch of liner to form where the wall meets the curb. Please offer some guidance.

I did make one cut over the curb so I could fold the liner. I'll try to attach a pic. Nothing is stapled in yet.

Thanks.
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Unread 01-04-2003, 07:41 AM   #2
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This is an attempt to post a pic of my shower curb.
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Unread 01-04-2003, 08:39 AM   #3
davem
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Hi Eric, welcome to the forum. I'm glad to see you're a picture guy, It makes things more fun around here. Here is a link to some pictures John put in the Liberry (you've found the Liberry right?). The blue corner dams will work on a shower like yours (and mine) where there is no jamb. Follow the link in my signature to see some pictures of my project. I used corner dams I purchased off of the Noble website, they are rounded instead of square. Good luck!
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Unread 01-04-2003, 09:13 AM   #4
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Thanks Dave. I suppose the preformed dams can be modified or maybe they are flexible enough to fit. It seems that part of rounded part which is 90 degrees to the corner would have to be straightened out to fit up against the wall. Is that right?
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Unread 01-04-2003, 09:29 AM   #5
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No modification needed. Get some paper, scissors and tape and make one. You'll see that if you spin it around about a hundred times, it'll fit right into the corner. Click on the image below and you'll go to the Noble website where you can purchase the dams. Mine came in about 3 days. Notice they have CPE and PVC, get the right ones to match your liner!
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Unread 01-04-2003, 09:47 AM   #6
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I made one. And now I see!
You da man Dave. Thanks.
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Unread 01-04-2003, 04:34 PM   #7
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Hi Eric, We're almost neighbors.

I have some other pictures that I put up for occasions like this. The dam corners I use are more square looking but do the same thing. They work inside or outside, depending on what you want to do.

I think you will need to make room for them though so that the backer board doesn't have to bow out in that area. Notching the studs is a good idea. Here are the pics. The shower depicted has jambs, but by turning the corners about a hundred times, as Dave says, you can get them to work anywhere.

http://johnbridge.com/mortar_bed_shower_floor.htm

For non-Texans, Eric lives near NASA, which is about 60 miles from where I live.
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Unread 01-04-2003, 07:32 PM   #8
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I went ahead and ordered the noble dams.

I had so much fun with the preslope I'm seriously considering trying to mud the walls. I have a couple smaller walls around my tub which I'm going to try first. If that works then I'll go for the shower. See pic.
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Unread 01-05-2003, 11:58 AM   #9
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Eric,

I can't see all that well from the picture, but did you leave room between the underside of the tub and the deck for lath, mud and tile? Everything should go under the rim; it should not abut it.
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Unread 01-05-2003, 02:38 PM   #10
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John... I was going to cheat a bit and not mud the deck just the walls. The tub deck is only 4" wide. The rim of the tub is sitting 1/4" above hardibacker.

The attached pic shows a drawing from the installation instructions. I did screw up a little in that is shows the tub should be 1/4 inch above the wood frame. So what I was going to do was add another layer of hardibacker abuting the tub, then a layer of tile abuting the tub.

What do you think?



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Unread 01-05-2003, 03:41 PM   #11
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Yes, you can do it that way, but the other way is best. Can't you raise the tub? Or is it cast iron? If it's cast iron, I'll understand if you do it your way.
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Unread 01-05-2003, 04:05 PM   #12
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Yea I can probably raise it. It is an acrylic tub weighs all of 60lbs.

Should I raise it couple inches, get the deck tiled out and then drop it to the right height? And then mud the walls?

I really appreciate your time. Thanks.
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Unread 01-05-2003, 05:52 PM   #13
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Eric,

This takes a little doing, but on the set-in tub dais (pl?) I do the tub is dropped in and connected after the tile work is done. You have to have access after the fact anyway to get to the connections. I think it would be worth your while to remove the tub entirely. Make a pencil mark around the perimeter before you do and make sure your tile installation goes at least a half inch beyond the mark.

Then, when you set the tub in finally, you set it in a bed of loosely mixed brick mortar and smoosh it down.

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Unread 01-05-2003, 06:35 PM   #14
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That's what I'll do. It might be a little while. My wife and I have not reached an agreement on the tile yet. Thanks.
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Unread 01-06-2003, 10:17 AM   #15
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remember the tub is 60# without water! allow room & support for the wt. of the water. (approx. 10# per gal.)
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