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Old 12-25-2017, 02:32 PM   #2746
smifwal
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Originally Posted by John bridge
I have learned something here, and it's wasted on me. I'm no longer in the mud slinging business
but all the knowledge you and all the other folks spread helps young pups like me get a better understanding so one day I can be a mud slinger. I hate doing showers over backer board. When it get warm again I am going to build a mock up in my shop so i can practice. I have seen it mentioned here more than once that when you are good and proficient that you can mud a shower just as fast as they guy using backer board with all things considered plumbing/squaring/getting every thing pool table flat and trurly end up with a better result. That's my goal . Thanks to all for the tips and tricks
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Old 12-25-2017, 03:17 PM   #2747
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Shawn, it's good to see others wanting to learn more about mud work.
Even if you don't mud all your showers, it's good to have the knowledge. You never know when you might need to flatten a fireplace wall, get a shower jamb plumb, etc.
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Old 12-25-2017, 03:56 PM   #2748
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Davy It had helped a bunch just understanding the concept of screed sticks and the process as a whole. I got a handle on mudding a floor. But I don't get to do them as often as I like because of the height required if I could mud every floor I would be in hog heaven. I did one a 90sqft for my uncle we tore out a old mud bed that had some cracks in and my uncle wanted build it back up with plywood and backer board. And I was like why ?that will take to long lets just throw another mud bed back down. We had a back and forth and he agreed I was probably right. The cabinet guy told him well I don't get ones like this very often. My uncle said why what's wrong he said nothing I didn't even have to use any shims. Needless to say my uncle was pretty impressed and I felt like a rockstar.
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Old 12-25-2017, 04:31 PM   #2749
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" I don't get ones like this very often." I hear that from the shower door guy. Nothing special, I just made the jambs plumb.

Yeah, we mud very few floors these days compared to years ago. Of course years ago the builders would drop the floors for the tile man to float to the needed height. These days, seems like the only time I mud a floor is when someone encloses a porch or turns a garage into a bedroom.
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Old 12-25-2017, 06:09 PM   #2750
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Shawn I only install tubs or showers with mud work, it's the only option I provide at the moment and it has proven itself time and time again on remodeling work.

I'd like to learn about wedi board to have a system like that under my belt as well, but when you gear yourself towards mud work it pretty much covers all the situations you encounter without buying anything different.
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Old 01-01-2018, 09:24 AM   #2751
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Recessing lath with the nails works great.
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Old 01-31-2018, 02:36 PM   #2752
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Hi guys, I have a couple questions about the steps in building a mud shower. I have built a few cbu backer showers and I am building my first mud wall shower. I have poured the pre-slope, installed the liner, and plan on forming the curb in metal lath. After I hang the rock, install the vapor barrier and attach the stucco netting/ lathing what would be my next step? Do I float the curb first? Pour the second layer of my shower pan? Or float the walls? My last question is how far should the sheetrock and vapor barrier overlap the liner? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Joe.
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Old 02-01-2018, 08:55 AM   #2753
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Hi Joe,

Mud the back wall first, then the two side walls, then the curb. I tile and grout the shower walls and curb before I mud the floor, but that might be old school.
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Old 02-01-2018, 10:30 AM   #2754
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Smile

Thanks John, your the man.

I was also wondering how far I should bring down the sheet rock and vapor barrier? From most of the photos I've seen it looks like guys leave about 4-6 inches above the pre-slope, does that sound about right? Or should it only be around an inch that way the mud pan overlaps the sheet rock?

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Old 02-01-2018, 08:49 PM   #2755
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Joe, I do 2 coat mud jobs these days but for years we did 1 coat jobs, which sounds like what you are planning to do. For 1 coat jobs we would cut the sheetrock at the top of the pan liner, 10-12 inches up off the floor. Then I would run the tar paper down overlapping the liner 4-6 inches. My lath would then overlap that all the way to the floor. No nails down low, keep them up near the bottom edge of the sheetrock. Then I would scratch coat the bottom section where the sheetrock was cut out. With no nails down low the lath would just hang there so I then placed bricks against the lath to hold the lath and scratch coat tight to the wall.

If you go to this page, http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/...t=3579&page=96 And scroll down to post 1437, you'll see a pic of what I'm talking about.
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Old 02-01-2018, 08:56 PM   #2756
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Hey Joe, (good song)
It's been awhile for a one coat, usually the drywall is well above your preslope Joe, it's even done above the liner itself or just on it so you can fasten the Sheetrock down without penetrating the liner. (It will wick moisture if it sits in your deck mud for the floor.

What's your vapor barrier? Roofing felt? 6mil poly?

When you add the vapor barrier over the Sheetrock it goes over the liner a couple inches, then when you wire that goes down as close as you can safely get it to the liner. Usually you mud/scratch that space between the liner and drywall so it stiffens up for your "one coat" float job the next day.
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Old 02-01-2018, 08:57 PM   #2757
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I was wondering if Davy was gonna get to it before I did
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Old 02-01-2018, 09:27 PM   #2758
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I gave you plenty time, Justin. It took me about an hour to find that pic on page 96.
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Old 02-02-2018, 07:44 PM   #2759
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Not really a trick but maybe someone will benefit from posting, this wall was framed out with no real supports, needless to say it moved quite a bit at the top outside corner. (About a 2 inch sway) The homeowner framed it up, and realized after he finished the the floor that it should of been braced with all thread tying into the joists. (Upstairs)
After scratch and browning the walls for tile, there was basically no movement, even hitting it your fist you got vibration but no movement.

I wouldn't rely on mud to fix/save things like this Disclaimer but it sure did a good job.

Can a mod rotate pic.
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Old 02-03-2018, 09:21 AM   #2760
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I always worry about some bulldozer of a guy (somebody like Davy) crashing into it. That's why I insist on doing them with concrete blocks. I will agree, though, that scratch and brown form one tough structure.
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