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Unread 07-02-2019, 09:56 AM   #1
YaDrongo
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Tiling over kitchen tile floor - 1940 house

Hi everyone, great forum glad I stumbled across this place. I had a few questions if someone can help me out:

1. Thinking of using the MAPEI EcoPrim Grip to prep an old tile floor for new tile. Is it a good idea to then coat with Self-leveling compound? How much will this affect the height?

2. All articles and videos I've been watching tell you to start in the center of the room, is that a must? I am thinking of just starting on end of this galley kitchen(there are two ways out).

3. How clean do I need to get this floor if I am just going to coat it with the EcoPrim?

Background - Someone had either used thin-set or glue (there are trowel marks) to attach luan and some linoleum and also I had 4 layers of stick-on tiles over that! So, this tile floor is very sturdy and already nearly level in most spots. Barely an cracks or chips. I figured I better clean the floor, but only thing taking off the old adhesive is my drill with a wirebrush attachment.

Thanks all
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Unread 07-03-2019, 06:50 AM   #2
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Just bumping, did some more reading. Planning to use Eco Prim Grip over this floor, but the instructions say not to cover an asbestos substrate. Why is that discouraged? Thanks
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Unread 07-03-2019, 07:46 AM   #3
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Welcome, Sean.

Is this a wood framed floor?

1. You currently have ceramic tile on the floor? I can't tell for sure what you've got in the photos. Why do you want to use a SLC on the floor? Do you actually want it level, or are you just trying to make it flat?

2. Are you talking about setting the tile or using the SLC, neither of which would require starting in the center of the floor.

3. The MAPEI website gives pretty clear instructions on what condition the floor needs to be to tile over it with their Eco Prim Grip.

You're planning to tile over this 4 layers of stick-on tile?

You might wanna contact MAPEI about the tiling over asbestos-containing substrates. Many ceramic tile installation products carry that limitation and I think it is mostly a CYA feature, but I don't actually know that.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-03-2019, 09:24 AM   #4
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Hi CX, yes this is a wood subfloor.

1. As far as I can tell this is a strong ceramic tile in fairly good shape (I already removed the layers of stick-on tiles).

2. I was speaking of setting the tile, wanted to make sure I get an even looking layout. I'm a total noob obviously and I thought SLC would work in spots that are slightly off level? Just want to make sure floor is flat enough for these long rectangular wood look tiles.

3. I called MAPEI and I think you are right, they said that if the installation fails then you would have to rip up the asbestos, and also that they don't guarantee it will bond. So they basically said I'm taking a chance.

The EcoPrim should encapsulate the floor though correct? I guess my concern now is just getting the floor clean enough. I'm hoping my drill isn't releasing asbestos when I brush the tile with the wire brush! Not sure how to get all the gunk off otherwise.

Thanks for your help!
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Unread 07-03-2019, 10:42 AM   #5
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1. If you're willing to accept the old tile installation and the subfloor structure as adequate, you can tile over what you've got. I would wanna know what was under there, but that's entirely up to you.

2. Once you decide upon your tile layout and strike layout lines on your substrate, you can start tiling in any place or places you want. Just honor the layout lines the same way all the time.

If you're concerned about asbestos, you do not want to do any grinding or wire brushing on the dry floor. I'd first want to try wetting the floor and using a razor scraper or similar. Most tile installation product manufacturers want the cutback material reduced to no more than a stain before using their products.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-03-2019, 04:22 PM   #6
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1) Understood, I think it's very solid
2) Do you strike all the layout lines for the entire with a chalk line or just the initial center of the room?

I picked up some razor scrapers - will switch to those and I have been keeping the floor damp and limiting the dust.

Regarding leveling - would you recommend SLC or perhaps the Ridgid Levelmax system? When placing my level the floor was very level for the most part, but longwise there was about a 1/8" drop when I rocked my level back and forth over about a 4' area.

Thanks for all the tips! Will post pics when finished.
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Unread 07-03-2019, 04:41 PM   #7
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You can make as many lines as makes you comfortable. Perpendicular center lines help to square the layout. You can then grid for each tile if you wanna. Most pro installers will make grid lines every two or three or more tiles depending upon tile size and layout pattern, but you can do more if you like.

I can't find where you've indicated the size of the tile you intend to install, but that has bearing upon how flat the substrate needs to be. Your tiles don't give a rat's patootie whether the substrate if level, they care only about flat. The bigger the tile, the more they care. If the substrate had to be level, we couldn't tile walls, eh?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-03-2019, 05:24 PM   #8
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Good point about walls. Tile is 8" x 32".
I'm getting one hump right near the center of the kitchen where my level is rocking. It's about 1/4" over 4 ft. I believe that is out of tolerance.
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Unread 07-03-2019, 09:11 PM   #9
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For those large format tiles the industry standard for flatness is no deviation from intended plane of more than 1/8th" in ten feet nor 1/16th" in two feet. That's a very flat floor and you'll be glad to have it.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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