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Old 01-01-2018, 12:26 PM   #16
rmckee84
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Like I said, a click together luxury vinyl would be your best option. As for the pitch around the drain you may have to feather it out a bit but most will relax and conform to the floor. It may not be perfect but you may be able to help it relax by using a heat gun or even a blow dryer.
I looked at the pics its just hars to say without knowing what product and actually seeing the slab in person
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Old 01-01-2018, 12:27 PM   #17
RichVT
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The cheap all vinyl snap together planks don't have anything in them to prevent them from eventually molding to the shape of your floor. The more expensive laminated planks likely will have a rigid layer somewhere in them. Buy a couple of pieces and experiment with it.
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Old 01-01-2018, 12:36 PM   #18
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any of you guys suggest a product? I wouldnt know where to begin. I know my square footage, i just want to order and go.

Like i said the stuff i played with at lowes was far too rigid to conform to anything, so i dont want to order and end up with the same thing.

If you can link me a few ideas we can probably call this a wrap and i can move forward and hope for the best
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Old 01-01-2018, 12:48 PM   #19
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I wont be much help as far as a specific one, I just laid 1200 sqft of some LVT planks from menards. It was easy to work with and looked good. I think it was the congoleum endurance line. I'd have to check with the customer. The stuff is very thin and will conform. I dont have enough knowledge about specific brands to reccomend a certain one though.
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Old 01-01-2018, 12:53 PM   #20
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that should be enough information to get me started. I assume i want to shoot for the thinner the better then?

also it appears luxury vinyl "tile" still requires grouting, whereas luxury vinyl "planks" would not?

Flooring is all very new to me. Had our ceramic guy do the upstairs but it just isnt in the cards for the basement at this point due to cost.

With all that being said, thank you guys all very very much. You were more than informative and patient considering. This forum has a good rep for a reason Perhaps one day ill work my way up to trying my hand at the ceramic.

Ill be sure to post back with the results. Gonna give the floor an alpha-mopping and we'll see what happens

Btw, i dont need any type of underlayment or vapor barrier or anything of the sort? You literally put the planks straight on top of whats there?
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Old 01-01-2018, 12:58 PM   #21
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I would reccomend planks.
Yes put it straight on what's there.
Clean the floor as good as you can before installing. They sell tapping blocks for laminate you may or may not need one depending on how easy the stuff you get goes together. Grab a rubber mallet as well.
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Old 01-01-2018, 01:18 PM   #22
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ok one more question as i get this ball rolling.

I noticed a lot of them advertise (pvc core etc) this is what i want to avoid yes? I want the ones labled 100% vinyl i presume?

Also assume i need to leave an expansion gap around the planks and the walls i thinK?

finally, the drains. Do i just cut a hole in the top of the tile and put my drain cap in? I read on another forum someone suggesting forget the drain even exists and just go right over it because if water goes down and gets under there your screwed anyhow or something to that effect?

Now obviously ever having water in is a worst-case scenario but if i did, i would rather have it find its way into the drain easier than sitting on the tile against a wall. Plus aesthetically without the drain there and visible, the eventually crater/dome created from conformity of flooring would look much more off putting imo :P

I think i kinda answered my own question to that end!

Whats the ideal tool to cut this stuff? I have a jigsaw, circular saw, and rotozip handy. a coping saw and hack saw as well. Whats the easiest thing to use?
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Old 01-01-2018, 01:39 PM   #23
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oop, last inquiry - i swear!

In the utility room a furnace and water heater are present. Can you just run this tile up to them or must it be underneath? Im not sure how the interlocking works in a situation like that.

With the epoxy coating i simply intended to cut in around them and get under them as far as i could reasonably. The furnace is elevated ala leveling blocks but only about 3/4" or so. I could pass some tile undernearth but it would still need to be cut around the leveling blocks. rigidity of the pvc exhaust and the ductwork prevents much up or down so its pretty perma planted.

Is it feasable to have a gap(s) in the "entire unit" of flooring due to situations like the aforementioned?

not sure how interwoven its required to be as a whole.

hope that makes sense.
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Old 01-01-2018, 02:51 PM   #24
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Not to disagree with vinyl recommendations, but if you’re really set on tile . . . Give the folks at TEC Specialty products about their TEC Multipurpose Primer. By folks I mean technical support dept.

TECHNICAL SERVICES
Get Answers For Your TEC Projects
1-800-TEC-9023 (1-800-832-9023)
Mon-Fri 7 a.m.-5 p.m. CST

Multipurpose primer: from their product description document

Quote:
Suitable for use over the following clean, dry, structurally sound and unpainted surfaces: concrete, cementitious backer units (CBU or cement board), exterior grade plywood, oriented strand board (OSB), adhesive residue (except tacky or pressure-sensitive adhesive), cold-rolled steel, existing ceramic tile, gypsum substrates — minimum tensile bond strength 72 psi (0.5 MPa), VCT or non-cushioned sheet goods if they are single layer only and well bonded to a substrate approved for tile. For specific recommendations on other substrates, please contact your TECģ representative.
Don’t just read and order product, contact tech support and they’ll even look at your email images. Let them direct you as to whether their product is suited for your specific needs.

I have used this product for similar installations, with membranes on top such as TEC membrane , Greenskin, Protecto Wrap or other peel and stick membranes that have a fleece top coating ideal for a tiling substrate.

Don’t be in a hurry, ask questions. Lotsa help here.
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Old 01-01-2018, 03:15 PM   #25
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Pvc core is fine
Yes, 1/4" minimum gap around perimeter
Use a hole saw that goes on a drill if you want a perfect hole.
Just like perimeter walls keep a gap along any permanent fixture like the furnace.
You can start/stop wheverever. The biggest thing is leaving perimeter gaps and acclimating the material before installing
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Old 01-01-2018, 03:41 PM   #26
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Ok one more thing as Iím AT the store. Do I want click together or the stuff with sticky edges?
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Old 01-01-2018, 03:44 PM   #27
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Nm saw your older reply. You suggested click together.

So the more rigid stuff is ok even with the drain dip? Itís onviously higher quality stuff but Iím worried about itís ability to conform whatsoever
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Old 01-01-2018, 04:39 PM   #28
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Got 4mm ez click itís called. Wanted a little rigidity vs the 3mm stuff but wasnít sure if the 6mm stuff was too rigid considering the sharp slope into the drain area.
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Old 01-01-2018, 10:41 PM   #29
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From tile to vinyl in less than 12 hrs. You’ve got a bee in your bonnet.

There are lots of nice vinyl tiles out there. Hope it works well for you.
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Old 01-02-2018, 06:30 AM   #30
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hi topsin.

Yea it was a very precarious situation and im not the most creative guy on the planet (i do IT for gods sake) and i THOUGHT i married a decisive woman who was into home decor (like i apparently wrongly assumed most were lol).

Turns out she just leaves all that deciding to me. So not only do i have to try to decide on style and color but I have to make that choice within the constraints of finances and application.

With the basement ceramic woulda been the ideal but it was just way out of the budget. The basement floor wasnt budgeted for. It was a later project so I was going to epoxy coat and it woulda gotten us by.

When i found out more about the cutback, that went out the window. I thought floating floor was my godsend until i slowed down again, did some research, and became concerned about that working either due to the slope into the floor drains being pretty sharp in one of the rooms.

either way, cost vs appearance i think that stuff is a win. I woulda prefered the 6mm stuff with the backing and fiberboard in between etc, but the guy at the store said if the floor is uneven go thinner. So i got something in between (i guess it goes down to 2mm) because i became a little concerned about strength of interlocks if you step into a high spot around the drain with the super thin stuff.

so for better or worse, 4mm it is. Im gonna do a thorough vacuum and vinegar mop today after I finish the sanding of the utility room and tomorrow it starts going down.

I do want to ask you guys one more thing since you saw me through this entire fiasco and brought my fretting to an end.

with the drain in the laundry room, across the 4 foot level it becomes like a 1 inch drop to the drain. Its short and sharp. I assume that just has to be built up a little bit? What could I use thats easy and cheap to make that happen? I swear i have stall mats that if i could cut up id be cutting out a few donuts to place under there for support and calling it a day.

If they have some kind of pre mixed cement in a 5 gallon bucket that has the consitency of drywall mud or something i can just smear on around it to bring it up, that would work too. I know the vinyl can handle the much more shallow slope in the utility room but the bathroom i know it cant.

Excited to finish the prep work and get rolling!

my heroes <3
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