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Old 12-17-2017, 06:32 AM   #16
JesseF
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It's the thickness of my concrete board. If my mud does come up that high, I'll have to have a decent sized curb. Would 3.5" be too thick for the mud or no? I think it would make it a lot easier for me to do it since the outside will be level with the floor.
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Old 12-17-2017, 03:10 PM   #17
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3 inches or more of mud is no problem.

Let's back up a minute. If you are getting an inspection and you need the drain to be 2 inches lower than the curb/speed bump, then you will have to have a step down going into the shower. To leave the shower floor flush with the bath floor, 2 inches of pitch will be too steep.

The showers I've done for wheel chair access, I've never had an inspection so I make them with about 1 inch pitch from the speed bump to the drain grate. So, you'll need to figure out if you want a step down going into the shower of an inch or so, then with 1 inch pitch (which is a little more than you need) should get you the 2 inches you need. Without the step down, the shower floor with 1 inch pitch will be much easier to flood the bathroom. A clogged drain or even someone standing on the drain while showering might over flow the shower floor.
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Old 12-17-2017, 04:29 PM   #18
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Is that an issue if I build a curb that is a few inches tall? I paid for the permit last year. Got the inspection of plumbing and electrical done and passed. But it was since expired so I'll have to pay up for another one when I'm done. So it will have to pass inspection for sure.
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Old 12-17-2017, 04:47 PM   #19
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I'd say most curbs are built with 3- 2x4's stacked but with a dropped shower floor and since you plan to use a surface membrane, I'd make it out of bricks or set a couple forms and pour it with concrete. Then you don't have to deal with the wood moving and possibly swelling. If your curb was 1 1/2 to 2 inches high, it would be plenty.
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Old 12-31-2017, 09:50 PM   #20
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I poured my concrete for the shower curb today. Bought all of my tile yesterday. I was able to pry off my shower drain, i broke the PVC, gotta get down lower and install a coupling eventually. My current plan is to complete everything outside of the shower so we will have a functional 1/2 bath.

But I have a question about some drains. The stuff at home depot anf lowes looks like crap. I did manage to find some stuff on amazon i think looks great. Just want opinions on if it seems like good quality stuff or junk.

Square Shower Floor Drain with Tile Insert Grate - Made of Sus304 Stainless Steel , 6-inch , Multipurpose , Invisible Look or Flat Cover - Brushed Stainless https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01728B51K..._z.AsAb7NHNAPF

Neodrain 2-Inch PVC Sub Drain, Shower Drain Base, with Rubber Gasket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XSQF1VR..._-.AsAbGCJNDRC

Also I plan on buying this tomorrow. I researched and feel this is a solid tile saw. But I am open to opinions.

RIDGID 120-Volt 7 in. Table Top Wet Tile Saw
https://homedepot.app.link/Rh3bjXm7kJ
SKU# 301127383

Thanks guys!
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Old 12-31-2017, 10:05 PM   #21
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Jesse, what type of pan liner do you plan to use? A traditional PVC liner, a paint on liner or a sheet type? Our advice will vary depending on which you use.

The last drain you mention doesn't have weepholes. I wouldn't want one that has the rubber boot. I'd much rather have a drain that I have to glue in place.
The drains at Home Depot are fine. The grate on top can be changed if you don't like them.

Edit; Once you buy the Ebby drain riser, any of the Ebby top grates will snap in it. They come in different finishes. The riser has 2 inch threads which will fit into the Home Depot 3 pc clamping drain. Here's a link.

https://www.amazon.com/Ebbe-E4400-Dr...ds=ebbe+drains
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Old 01-01-2018, 06:55 AM   #22
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I'm gonna use a liquid membrane. The link you shared , the piece is unclear to me. Where does that actually go?

Nevermind. I follow now. Thanks fr the advice!
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Old 01-01-2018, 11:40 AM   #23
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Yeah, they show it up side down.

I'd look into the divot drain method for the paint on membrane.
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Old 01-02-2018, 08:53 AM   #24
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The other guys already sold me on the digit method. But after reading I'm still not 100% clear. I understand as far as your picture. Then you add stone to allow water to drain out. This is where I'm not clear. You now mud or thin set over the stone? I understand it's not waterproof and would allow water to slowly escape. Just trying to get clarification.
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Old 01-02-2018, 09:00 AM   #25
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I poured the shower curb a few days ago. Yesterday I started tiling the floor. DAMN tiling is harder than I expected. I'm hoping I have the tiles all set well. There are a few spots where they are high or low, but overall I think it is coming together well. Gonna let them set and probably pickup on it next weekend. After I finish the floor including inside a closet you can't see in the pic, I'm going to do 3x6 white subway tile 4 foot up most of the walls.

Is doing tile on the wall easier than the floor? I'm guessing and hoping that it is easier.
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Old 01-02-2018, 09:40 AM   #26
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Walls aren't any easier until you reach a height that gets you off your knees.

Are you going to set a level ledger board before doing the walls? Do you know where the low spot on the floor is?
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Old 01-02-2018, 09:42 AM   #27
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I didn't really have a plan yet. I don't know what I'm doing. Would I leave the ledger board in place or remove and add tile afterwards?

And no, not sure where the low spot is.
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Old 01-02-2018, 11:12 AM   #28
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Jesse,

Finding the lowest spot of the floor is a good idea when it comes to doing the wall tile, as it is unlikely the floor is perfectly level.

Think of it this way. If you were to draw a level line that goes around the entire perimeter of the room, then measure down from that line to the floor surface in multiple locations, you're likely going to find that those measurements vary. Could be half an inch, could be more, could be less. The goal is to avoid slivers of tile at the floor.

I'd use the lowest point on the floor as my reference point for the rest of my wall tile measurements. The lowest point gets a full height wall tile (3" in your case) PLUS 1/8-1/4 for the wall to floor joint. The joint, plus the 3" becomes your new reference line for the ledger. The top of the ledger goes to that line and then you start setting tile from the top of the ledger on up. Once those are set remove the ledgers and install the bottom row, cutting the individual tiles however much needed to maintain a consistent wall to floor joint width.

That said, if your layout is such that you are aligning your wall tile with tiles inside of your shower that'll be a different challenge.
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Old 01-02-2018, 11:28 AM   #29
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I do plan on running this layout into the shower. What makes it another issue? The different level of the floor I guess?
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Old 01-03-2018, 07:40 AM   #30
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Yup, the different floor heights present a challenge.

Given that you want the layout to run from the shower walls onto the rest of the walls, and since you're working with only 3" tall tile, you're just going to have to play with it to find the best compromise. Being aware of the situation gives you a leg up.
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