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Old 08-26-2017, 11:56 AM   #16
Karls tile Inc
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Why did you mirror the pattern instead of continuing through the corner?
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Old 08-26-2017, 12:44 PM   #17
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because thats what the owner wanted
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Old 08-29-2017, 06:44 AM   #18
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somehow, i put this in the wrong order of replies, but still need questions answered.

all the peeps! - actually my partner would be interested in a herringbone sheet of white porcelain but we can't find it. a great bonus would be if it is cheaper than marble.

A. is porcelain more etch resistant, stain resistant than marble?
1 do you have any suggestions on a white porcelain sheet with tiles approx 1" x4"?
2. how much longer would it take to lay 100 sq ft of 1"x4" tiles vs laying 100 sq ft of individuals?
3. is the sheet ultimately easier to line up than individual tiles? or should i just go for the porcelain 1x4 singles?
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Old 08-29-2017, 09:46 AM   #19
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1- Porcelain is much harder and durable than marble. Read this for the inner geek in you.

2- Depends on your skill, patience, and the layout of the area to be tiled.

3- Without being there, I'd opt for the 1x4's due to the obstacles.
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Old 08-29-2017, 02:43 PM   #20
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Is my math a little fuzzy or is there 35 pieces per sq. foot x 100 sq. foot equals 3500 individual pieces?
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Old 08-31-2017, 08:30 PM   #21
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mark--yea, on my count, i think your right.

across all tiles, what is the average time it will it take to lay an individual tile ? A: 2 minutes? B: 3 minutes? C: 1 minute?

for 3500 tiles, thats
A: 166 hrs
B: 175 hrs
C: 58 hrs

i guess i should post photos of my kitchen. i think that would help others understand what im working with.

i was thinking it would take me 4-5 days. this guesstimator seems to make me think i am wrong. 16 days at 10 hrs a day? yikes.

i'd better do a great job.
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Old 12-30-2017, 01:58 PM   #22
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continuing with herringbone

alright guys...im just about midway through rehab on an ACL & meniscus surgery. So i don't have much to do but finish planning this project.

we bought herringbone sheets. they are ~11"x9". tiles are spaced ~1/8" on the sheet
i also bought a laser level.

i don't have:
thinset.
grout.
a plan on where to lay first tile.

i will post some pics of the kitchen.
the countertops aren't level. one is of ~3/8" across 8'. another is off 3/8" across 5'

my questions:

1. based on following pictures, where would you lay first sheet?
2. do i need a ledger strip thingy?
3. any tips for making up 3/8" gap due to non-level counter?
4. I live near a lowes...would any old modified thinset for these?
5. 3/16 v notch trowel.? yea?
6. grout...unsanded, Yea? : )

i''l have more questions. i think . but can't remember them now.
thanks in advance guys..

happy new year
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Old 12-30-2017, 02:01 PM   #23
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Pics

Pics of kitchen attached.
Attached Images
   
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Old 12-30-2017, 07:22 PM   #24
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A few questions for you.

1. Did you decide on marble or porcelain?

2. How do you plan to finish off the edges? Like at the window or at the end of the back splash.

3. What kind of saw do you have?

Here's a few answers to your questions.

1, 2 and 3. You already have the counter top to start against so you don't need a ledger. If the C-tops are out of level, so will the tiles. The tiles need to follow the tops. I don't see the laser doing you much good for this project.

4. I would use a non sag white modified thinset.

5.sounds good.

6. for 1/8 joints, I'd use sanded grout.
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Old 12-31-2017, 02:09 PM   #25
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Davy-
1. tiles are matte porcelain.
2. at the edge of the backsplash, we decided to use a metal, L-shaped tile edge. don't have it yet, but something probably from Schluter..?...
3. don't have saw yet. i am a glassblower i was told there is a saw at Lowes that has an ideal rpm for glass. I'm guessing it will have a sled.

"if c-tops are out of level - so will tiles be" - dang. ok. i guess i'll try and fix them somehow.

A) if i can't level perfectly, do you have any other options so that large wall doesn't look wonky? a2) would trimming the bottom edge of first row be highly noticeable with these herringbone sheets? (the "low" side of the large wall is near the doorway, not the corner)

B) is there any extra sealing to be done with a matte porcelain tile?
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Last edited by microbehay; 12-31-2017 at 02:28 PM. Reason: forgot to ask
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Old 12-31-2017, 05:12 PM   #26
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A. I can't completely tell what type of countertops you have. Pull out the drawers or open up a cabinet and look underneath. You'll most like have one of 2 things, either screws holding the countertop in the corners of each cabinet or silicone attaching it to the cabinets. Either way it would be a good idea to fix them it at all possible.
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Old 12-31-2017, 06:36 PM   #27
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I agree, if you can get the C-tops level, do it. But it's even more important that the tops are flat and not up and down in the back. The tops are out of level now and is it noticeable to your eye? Probably not. Then the backsplash won't be noticed either. Run the tile level with the counters out of level and it will look wonky for sure.

I don't buy a saw very often but from what I've seen they usually come with a cheap blade. You might need to upgrade to a porcelain cutting blade.
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Old 12-31-2017, 07:49 PM   #28
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I got under the long counter and was able to shim it up level. The opposite side (neither of these is the window side) is still not level and itís ďlowĒ spot is lower than any other portion of the tops...so Iíll have to fix that.

I guess my concern about setting the tiles even to unlevel counterss is that the tiles wonít be square to the cabinets or any other square vertical plane, which, as I type I realized why you are saying get everything level ASAP to take away surprises. Ok ok.

Iíll make sure the tops are straight and not wavy...
&
Iíll shop for a proper porcelain blade.

Thanks for the push guys
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