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Old 12-31-2016, 08:55 PM   #46
argile tile
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as far as foam board on terribly uneven wall, and what if anything makes fiberglass "RIGHT" in a basement (mold) - i'm unsure

i need a master to discuss that thoroughly with because i'm using joint compound as the most cost effective and "longest lasting / mold reducing" solution - i'm unsure. i will know if it worked because the plumbing valve (outdoor water turn off for hose spout) will expose my joint for a long time to come, though - it won't be hidden.

my next pick, if joint compound fails tomorrow's inspection: skip insulation - it's only 14' of wall that is problematic at best (3' of that is a separate closet).
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Old 12-31-2016, 10:41 PM   #47
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Argile, we can give this thread a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.

And if you'll visit our FAQ you'll find a very brief tutorial on how best to post and properly attribute quotes here on the forums. Very simple once you see it.

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Old 02-19-2017, 09:47 AM   #48
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foam insulation adhered with drywall compound

Of all my wins and looses on my partial basement remodel, I count this a plus.

After 2 months the install seems ok. It's been through changing weather, been bumped a few times during framing. No further cracks or issues.

I'll tell you in 50 years if it's stood a real test of time!

((Next day after install I had to fix a few places I missed and found a few cracks, which today I'll say were due to drywall compound being too thick and without mesh))

((I later sealed other drafts (ie sill board) with drywall compound - and I think they'll last longer than caulk as well))
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Old 03-04-2018, 12:48 PM   #49
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I tore out the tile, here's why ...

((pre-note: the insulation trick above, 3 yrs running in Virginia, insulation is still %100 totally "air pocket" sealed (note outcome is experimental))


I'm not a pro. I did one "good bathroom" after a pro failed, still looks excellent. But a LARGE floor is a harder.

But the project above (the whole thread) failed.

On the end of the floor I detected some thinset un-bonding from the painted concrete floor. (a click of the tile is smacked). The thinset was thick and there was no grout cracking. But later I pried gently to remove a little trim near that area - and more came unbonded near end of floor. I'd done a small room and 1/2 the next room and decided: STOP, do not spend even one more tile on it.

Next note the forum advised me bonding thinset to painted concrete wasn't the best idea. The below is my experience.


I did a small room and 1/2 of another (in a basement) and TORE IT OUT when i found that some areas did not bond well while a few areas bonded "too well"**. There was some separation from bond I knew how to detect - would not have been an issue for some few years. The tile was cheap and too "slippery", I just wasn't happy. After that: I'll never buy "cheap tile" again (so i say!)

** i bonded to paint: a small section of the thinset un-bonded from floor, my test showed thinset would bond very well to this painted concrete and for %90 of floor it did and in %2 it bonded too well and needed a floor chisel to get off concrete. It's the %10 that was an un-expected problem - and %10 causes a failure. I was attracted to the issue it was cheap tile and i'd want to be able to remove it (and so i did, earlier than expected). No factor I've ever isolated shows why the thinset bond was weaker on some tiles and stronger on others (ie, i remember which parts of floor had more or less water in the thinset) Bad areas were clean like the rest or cleaner, and so on. All for the best i really didn't like slippery bland tile anyhow.

The "problem with tile" is everything is a problem: that's "per tile", so multiply. Follow all advice this forum gives you, is my advice.

My advice is do get educated before doing a large floor, and don't buy cheap tile


A handiman did our kitchen floor: a few cracked tiles already, lots of cracked grout lines...

* problem: difficult to find tile to replace with, bond material laid thin so that replacing and staying even (no lippage) requires replacement to be ... too thin

* problem: possible problem is systematic (wider cracking of bonding material or subfloor bends too easily for load)

* now need a new floor but floor is a few years old (not the 75 yr solution hoped for if done "right")

Again: My advice (i saw expressed by real tilers on this forum) would be: check into and ask about "through tile, of quality thickness". And always wonder if you should stop where you are if a "pro tiler" says what you've done isn't recommended if you want a quality long lasting floor "or nothing" until you have time to make that quality floor.

thanks everyone on johnbridge.com, your experiences have been invaluable

Last edited by argile_tile; 03-04-2018 at 01:00 PM.
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Old 03-04-2018, 02:51 PM   #50
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It's very possible the failure had nothing to do with the "cheap tile". Sounds like you have learned from your mistakes and will have better luck next time. Any time you stick tiles over paint or someone elses tile job, etc, your tile job is only bonded as well as the surface you are covering. If their job fails, so does yours. Also, sometimes the moisture in the thinset will cause paint to turn loose.

Just like with anything else, the prep work is important.

As far as your kitchen goes, the replacement tiles should be flush with the rest of your floor. If you remove all the thinset on the floor and use the same amount of thinset to stick them back, it should finish out flush. You can gain a little room by grinding the backs of the tiles, maybe 1/32-1/16. That's not something anyone makes a habit of doing.


Last edited by Davy; 03-04-2018 at 02:56 PM.
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