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Old 12-30-2017, 06:38 PM   #106
Davy
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The data sheet says to protect from freezing but doesn't say if it ruins it if it does freeze. I would test it, mix part A and B while they are still in their bags by squeezing the bag back and forth. Then barely cut the corner of each bag and pour a little into a small container, like half of a pill bottle. Mix equal parts together and then just enough powder, (part c) to thicken it up. Mix it on a paper plate of piece of card board and let it set a few hours. Depending on the air temps, it should start to firm up after an hour or two and get fairly hard after 6-8 hours. Should be real hard in 12 -16 hours.
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Old 12-30-2017, 07:02 PM   #107
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Regarding the silicone caulk, it will hold up in a wet area whereas latex acrylic won't. Outside of a dry area the latex will work.

I think you'll have to check with Laticrete on your most recent question. I have a feeling you won't like their answer.
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Old 01-16-2018, 09:46 PM   #108
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Not much of a question here just wanted to share a quick update. I finished the shower floor and I'm very pleased with the results. After ditching my marble selection on the advice of this forum I settled on a 3/4" ceramic mosaic with the tiles laid diagonally on the mesh.
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Little did I know that this would be a very difficult choice because the sheets just did not want to line up. I laid the whole thing dry to line up my kerdi drain and thought for sure this would be a total disaster. Once I cemented them down I was even more certain that I would be able to see the sheets.


I used Spectralock pro premium grout to finish the job. For all the bad reputation of epoxy grout I found it rather easy and satisfying to work with. Perfect color match and stain proof! Anyway here is the final result:
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Old 01-16-2018, 10:02 PM   #109
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Looks great !
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Old 02-05-2018, 07:25 PM   #110
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On to caulking using 100% silicone. This whole time my understanding was that all the caulk is supposed to go inside the joint with none on the outside of the joint when all is finished and cleaned up, similar to grout. This is based on that handy diagram that CX posts from time to time (showing the backer rod). So I head to YouTube as a diligent DIYer only to find videos where folks just smooth it with their finger and are left with what looks like a little ramp from one tile plane to the next. Is this wrong? I hope so because it's hideous. How do I go about getting the caulk to be only in the joint (and pretending to be grout)? Is this where the painter's tape comes in? Then use a finger to push the caulking into the joint and a 90 degree caulk tool to wipe up any excess? Then peel tape?


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Old 02-06-2018, 12:42 PM   #111
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With everyone's help, I'm so close to being done with this project after almost 1.5 years. Any advice on the above post about caulking would be greatly appreciated. My next post should be final pics and before/afters for your review and enjoyment.


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Old 02-06-2018, 04:45 PM   #112
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When I caulk I lay a nice even bead all the way down the corner. Then I mist it with either Denatured alcohol, or aerosol window cleaner. After that I use a sample chip of formica countertop, like the ones they have on the racks at Lowes but any caulking tool will work. Tool the joint and walk away. The alcohol will keep the caulk from smearing all over.
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Old 02-06-2018, 04:53 PM   #113
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And the end result is that all the caulking goes into the joint and you're left with a square corner as you would if it had been grouted? That is what I'm after. I suppose I should do as you describe using a 90 degree caulk tool then? Thanks.


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Old 02-06-2018, 05:56 PM   #114
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I would say that there is a slightly rounding to the corner but pretty close to 90. The sample chips I use to tool have a rounded corner.
Taping it off is another option, but it needs to be removed as soon as you finish and many times you will need to touch it up after pulling the tape.
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Old 02-06-2018, 07:11 PM   #115
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Good looking shower floor, Eric.
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Old 02-06-2018, 08:41 PM   #116
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Looks awesome!! Spectralock will not let you down. I love the stuff.
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Old 02-12-2018, 08:01 AM   #117
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How difficult is it to remove cured silicone caulking? I installed it on one area and I'm not totally happy with the color. If it's pretty easy to take out out I will do that and get a different color. If it's going to be a challenge will probably just leave it. Thoughts?


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Old 02-12-2018, 12:13 PM   #118
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Razor blade and time is all it takes.
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Old 04-20-2018, 06:43 PM   #119
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I know I should have used a schluter profile or bull nose, but I did not. The original plan was to caulk the gap behind the tile and just paint the edge of the tile. Same color as the wall. Now I'm considering packing the gap with drywall mud, that way I can sand it down to just how I like it before painting. Will this just end up cracking and crumbling away?
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Old 04-20-2018, 07:45 PM   #120
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I vote nosebull.
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