Chuck's first kerdi shower

[mullet]

Okay after reading a few threads (PCs) I have the guts to try kerdi. I have a few questions.

1. I have searched hard (cx) but I can not find the solution the pro's recommended to spray over Hardi before applying Kerdi to keep moisture from being pulled out of the thinset prematurely?

2. My shower layout is 4x6 and being that the Kerdi is in 3x I am wondering where I should put the seam?
Option 1 red
Option 2 green
Option 3 ?

3. Plus on the floor seam is it okay to have more then a 2" overlap?

[Davy]

I don't use Kerdi much but I have heard of guys spraying water over Hardibacker so it won't set the thinset so fast. A pump up spray bottle works well for this or you can wipe it with a wet sponge a few times.

Others will chime in I'm sure, hang tight.

[PC7060]

Good luck dude, let's see some pictures!

1. What Davy said. I used a sponge on my hardie before apply the Redgard surface treatment. Did the same thing before putting kerdi on the mud floor.

2. Really dealers choose. I'm from the less seams is more better school so I vote for option 1

3. 2" is the minimum overlap, more is just fine.

[Lazarus]

If you insist on using Hardi (white drywall is better) then use a small "pump up" sprayer.....mist the Hardi, wait a minute and mist it again. Keep doing this until it stays wet. You don't want it "dripping," but you DO want it wet.

Don't ask me how I know this.......

[mullet]

Ok thanks option 1 it is. I did a some more searching online and finally found the primer Levelquik. I couldn't remember the name. I will get a pump up sprayer and use that on all the Hardi.

[jim_c]

The positioning of the seams is not critical but as PC said it's somewhat better to minimize the number and length of the seams. You will have a deviation in the "flatness" of the area where the seams are, so try not to build it too thick with the thinset. And be aware of that when you start tiling.
I highly recommend that you take a scrap piece of Hardi or drywall and a small sheet of kerdi membrane and do a practice run before you start for real on the waterproofing. A 4" or a 6" drywall knife works well to smooth and adhere the membrane. It's not difficult but don't try to do too much in a hurry. Apply it in manageable sections with the required overlap. And let it set up for a few days before you tile.

[cx]

Originally Posted by Laz

You don't want it "dripping," but you DO want it wet.

Chuck, I'm gonna take issue with Laz' statement there. You do not want your HardiBacker, or any other tiling substrate, "wet" before applying thinset mortar. Damp is fine, but never wet. The technical term is "saturated, surface dry" (SSD) at the maximum.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[Lazarus]

Correct. "Saturated" is the proper term. As I recall, Hardi will darken somewhat when this level is reached...

[mullet]

Thanks all for your input and advice much much appreciated. CX I kinda got from Laz not to make sure it was soaking wet. Hopefully I have circumvented the soaking the walls down with water. I got a bug sprayer (thanks Brian) to mix Levelquik primer into to spray the Hardi down with. I mixed it 3:1 (thanks Marge) before spraying, I can tell now it has a very dull glow to the Hardi instead of the chalky desert dry look. I got the Kerdi drain adapter kit installed which I really like. I mixed thinset up troweled it on the concrete and then shoveled the mud down and started the mud bed, I will not say how long it took me . Here is what I have so far.

[Richard Tunison]

Looking really good!!!!

[PC7060]

Nice progress! Is that more of your spray foam handiwork I see?

[Lazarus]

Good work, my friend!

[mullet]

Thanks guys. Yeah PC I have been spraying foam like a mad man.

[Davy]

Chuck, are you gonna have a shower door on your shower? If so, you might check and see if it will hinge on the 45 degree angle the jamb is on. Usually the jamb is on a 90 degree angle from the curb. It might be nice to find out now rather than after you tile it.

[mullet]

Never planed on a door Dave.