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Unread 05-13-2013, 07:32 PM   #1
carrud
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Clark's Master Bath

I’m doing initial research for 2nd floor master bath remodel. There are two areas that are rather small. A sink/vanity area. A toilet/shower area. The areas are separated by a door.

The shower is very roughly 3’ x 4’.

The sub-floor is diagonal plank across the 2x10 joists 16" oc with plywood on top of that, except in the shower where it is currently a full one-piece fiberglass thing sitting directly on the diagonal planks.

At this point I’m considering a Kerdi install including Kerdi drain, and will build the pan myself.

Deflecto has given me an L/780.

At most is 65 sq ft of floor tile. Will most likely be laying porcelain tile for shower walls and bathroom floor. Not selected yet, but porcelain is what we like/want.

Questions for the Forum
1. I read in the liberry “You do need lath or other reinforcing in the pre-slope when going over a wood floor”. Does this hold true for my installation on the second floor wood subfloor, do I need some form of reinforcing in my deck mud?
2. What underlayment should I have above the diag plank subfloor under the pre-slope deck mud?
3. If installing a corner Better Bench, do I Kerdi the walls first, then install the Bench? (Not sure yet what I will do for a foot rest area, a Better Bench or similar is a possibility).

A great many thanks for your input.

Pics are coming up in a moment.
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Unread 05-13-2013, 07:50 PM   #2
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Some Before Pics

Here are some pics before I'm getting started with demo (except for copper repipe that is completed).

1 - Carpeted area will be tiled.
2 - I must have crossed my eyes when I took that shot of the shower.
3 - Shower drain
4 - Toilet drain
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Unread 05-15-2013, 10:02 AM   #3
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Master Bath redo questions

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Unread 05-15-2013, 03:22 PM   #4
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Clark,
I'm not an expert, but I'll weigh in.
1. Kerdi drain doesn't use a pre-slope in the mud bed. Install instructions can be found at the kerdi website, and other places.
2. If you are going to use ditra on the rest of the floor. Follow the ditra instructions for underlayment, and continue the underlayment into the shower.
3. I don't know about "Better benches"

You should get rid of that galvanized drain piping where ever you can. It rusts inside and shrinks the inside diameter.

Mark
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Unread 05-15-2013, 06:44 PM   #5
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Welcome, Clark.

1. Yes, you must staple down minimum 2.5 lb. expanded metal lath over a cleavage membrane (roofing felt or polyethylene sheeting) over your plywood floor before placing your deck mud.

While Mark is technically correct that you will not have a pre-slope, you will have the same sloped mud bed under your Kerdi drain and membrane.

2. With the diagonal subflooring board installation, and especially with the grat big ol' hole we see at the drain, I would want nothing less than 5/8ths" plywood for the second layer and I'd feel a lot better with 3/4" in that application. You need the added strength around the drain for support of the mud bed.

3. With a direct bonded membrane shower (Kerdi, etc) I prefer to put the membrane on the walls before installing the Better Bench. I then waterproof the top of the bench and tie that into the wall waterproofing, although that's not a requirement of either manufacturer.

Innovis makes three sizes of the Better Bench and the smallest is commonly used as a shaving step. I'm currently dealing with a customer for whom I'll install the 24" better bench at sitting height and she says that's perfectly adequate for her shaving step, too. Different strokes.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 05-28-2013, 09:40 PM   #6
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Status update

No questions at this time, just an update.

I'm continuing my research but have also started on the most difficult part of the rebuild; deciding on the tile and design. I think this step alone is going to be 6 months.
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Unread 06-26-2013, 09:57 PM   #7
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Getting close to final tile selection. Have a couple questions about items on our short list.

Q1) Pic 1 : How do these glass tiles hold up not only under install and grouting but over time? Will they still look good a year from now? These would be for a band on shower wall. Not firm on these yet, though.

Q2) Pic 2 shows tile we are considering. Tides Darksand for shower walls and Refin Cromie Steel for bathroom floor. Are there any negatives or such I need to consider with this tile. They seem a good tile but I appreciate any input as I want to check this before I spend.

We have not decided yet on the shower floor.

Many Thanks
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Unread 06-28-2013, 03:37 PM   #8
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Unread 06-28-2013, 06:23 PM   #9
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1- What does Mrs CLark want? If you use Spectralock or Fusion Pro you'll have no grout issues.

2- Don't make it look like a cave. Stay with lighter colors, easy to clean smooth surfaces.
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Unread 06-30-2013, 11:45 PM   #10
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My wife loves the 18x30 tiles for the shower and nearby walls. Any diff/special things I should consider with these big tiles? (Other than trying to cut them, which is a concern with my Husky 7".)
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Unread 06-30-2013, 11:59 PM   #11
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Your walls will need to be really, really, really flat to have a successful installation with tiles that size, Clark.

The industry standard for tiles only half that size is no deviation from intended plane of more than 1/8th" in ten feet nor 1/16th" in two feet. You'll want yours flatter than that if you can get it.

I'm sure Mrs. Clark will just love helping you set them big ol' boogers, too.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-01-2013, 08:15 AM   #12
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The Mrs is the one who loves them. And that means I'm willing to try (but only if it is possible).

Thanks for the advice about the flatness of the wall. I'll have to consider that and see where it takes us. Fortunately, Mrs. is not only flexible to change if necessary, she is willing to dive into the mud to help.

Thanks
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Unread 07-04-2013, 04:59 AM   #13
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Started some demo yesterday and it is nice to start making progress I can actually see (till now just getting prep work done, looking for tile, faucets, etc.)

1) Regarding the glass enclosure and the curb... I have seen at least one person here say he does not penetrate the curb, bad, bad, bad. What is/are the suggested method(s)? (I will be getting over to my local glass shop in a couple days and thought I'd get some info from any folks here also.)

Many Thanks
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Unread 07-04-2013, 05:13 AM   #14
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Quote:
posted by Clark:
I have seen at least one person here say he does not penetrate the curb, bad, bad, bad. What is/are the suggested method(s)? (I will be getting over to my local glass shop in a couple days and thought I'd get some info from any folks here also.
Clark, if you are having them install it I am sure they know that. In this day and age most glass frameless are attached on the jambs since there is no track on the curb. Good to see progress, have fun with the demo
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Unread 07-05-2013, 08:08 PM   #15
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FYI, I just posted the following on the Terry Love plumbing site. Of course any replies here are certainly welcome.

Quote:
House in So. California, built around 1965. Doing a master bath remodel. Did demo of the stall shower and found this in the plumbing wall. I'm sure this is vent pipes, but I don't know why the cleanout opening (if that's what it is called?) that was in the wall.

What is this for? I will be replacing the shower drain and trap, and if I were to replace this pictured area (not sure yet) with ABS what is best to do here?

NOTE: I definitely need to do something about this area because that cleanout piece sticks proud of the wall stud. It didn't bother the previous fiberglass shower but bothers me now with where I'm headed.

Many Thanks, Clark

(PS, sent here by the great folks at the John Bridge Forum)
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