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Unread 04-06-2010, 12:12 PM   #16
elsieCat
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NEW issue: a few urgent questions

I have a couple of questions that I could really use feedback on, as I'm working with an installer for the big heavy parts of the tilework, and installing only the mosaic I made myself as the 'color commentary' part of the project.

anyway, these are the questions:

1) durock doesn't have any dimensional stability, does it? Two layers of plywood would be preferable to a layer of ply (same thickness as the bottom layer of the two layers of ply) and a layer of durock, right? I kind of advocated for that a bit today and the installer said he'd do plywood, even though the durock adds stability in itself. I could swear that it doesn't, from everything I've read--it's just concrete with mesh around it, right? But he's getting the plywood at my request. (we're also putting ditra over that)

2) For laying 12x24 porcelain on the floor, what's the most advisable thinset? For the wall, I plan to use Laticrete 255. But we don't really need that for the floor, do we? We could use that Laticrete Multimax at Lowe's on the floor, maybe? Want to save some money where I can without compromising final quality.

ADDED: Seems we'll need to use some SLC -- where should that come in the subfloor/underlayment sandwich? We've got the first layer of ply down, then are planning a second layer and ditra. Where would SLC be best?

Thanks in advance. And may I say I LOVE Wediboard and wedisealant -- we installed it ourselves and it's such a wonderful system! Kind of sad it's over, because I loved working with the sealant so much LOL (and it wasn't just the fumes)
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Last edited by elsieCat; 04-06-2010 at 12:14 PM. Reason: addition
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Unread 04-06-2010, 01:10 PM   #17
bbcamp
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1) If you are using Ditra, use more plywood and no backerboard. It's all about stiffness.

2) Laticrete 255 is a modified medium set mortar. You don't use it to set the Ditra on the floor, and if you use it to set the tile on the Ditra, you won;t get Schluter's warrenty. I would not worry about that, though.

3) Place all your plywood before you level with SLC. Don't forget the primer! Set Ditra over SLC just like you would a slab.
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Unread 04-06-2010, 04:35 PM   #18
elsieCat
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Thanks, Bob! I was pretty sure about the ply--it really surprised me when the pro said that durock had dimensional stability...he's willing to humor me and use plywood instead.

He also wanted to put the SLC on *over* the ditra...I'm serious. I have to calmly insist that he not do that, thereby running the risk of becoming a "problem homeowner", one who also is so crazy she wants to caulk in the changes of plane rather than grout as he recommends...I'm doing the grouting and caulking, though, so I'll quietly do what I want

So it's a *non*modified thinset on the Ditra, yes? I was planning to use the 255 on the wall with the large format porcelain. Multimax wouldn't even be right for the Ditra/tile connection. Has to be nonmodified between the Ditra and tile.

Thanks again!
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Unread 04-06-2010, 10:51 PM   #19
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Bill--over here!

So you really think I should use modified over the SLC to set the Ditra, despite what Schluter says? I'll go with your recommendation over theirs if you really feel strongly about it. What about drying time/time to be able to set tile?

Thanks again so much.
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Unread 04-06-2010, 11:49 PM   #20
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Over the SLC, it's either or, but I'd still prefer to use a modified thinset. (I thought you were talking about bonding the Ditra directly to the plywood, in which case using unmodified thinset would've been a disaster) When you go to set the tile, though, you definitely want an unmodified thinset.

As for drying time, I don't believe there'd be any difference with respect to the thinset UNDERNEATH the Ditra.
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Unread 04-07-2010, 12:42 AM   #21
elsieCat
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Bill, you are such a mensch for responding so late. I can only imagine what time it was over there when you replied.

Weeeelll, o.k., I'll request modified even over the SLC. I agree, using unmodified over plywood would have been WAY wrong. But the installer's going to coat the whole thing w/SLC, so there will be no organic anything showing anywhere.

Thank you so very much for helping me with this. I feel armed to face the new day
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Unread 04-10-2010, 09:38 AM   #22
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Really quick urgent question:

The guy who installed the tile yesterday did a great job except I'm concerned about one thing. In his quest for nice tight groutlines and to address the slight unlevel of the tub deck, he made the bottom course of tile actually touch the deck in a few places for about maybe 8" total.

Should I call him today and have him take those tiles out (there are two that add up to that much touching) and redo them to leave room for movement? I'm concerned that if anything settles, the tub will get cracked or the tile will crack. And of course it has to be the bottom row.

Or is it okay to leave it since most of it doesn't touch? Time is of the essence as the thinset is curing.

Thanks!
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Unread 04-10-2010, 10:22 AM   #23
elsieCat
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And just so folks know--we ended up having to hire a tile person because my back and knees have given out -- I'm still going to be installing a 31' long 10" wide strip of mosaic I assembled myself from Pratt & Larson seconds, but I couldn't do the big heavy lifting part this time around. So there's still work I'll be doing.
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Unread 04-10-2010, 11:55 AM   #24
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Hi Elsie,

You already know the 'technical' answer.... if everything else meets or exceeds all industry standards and any installation instructions, i'd leave it. If not, why not?
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Unread 04-10-2010, 12:01 PM   #25
Bill Vincent
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Unread 04-10-2010, 02:28 PM   #26
elsieCat
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Thanks, dhagin & Bill. As long as there's no serious risk of cracking due to movement, I'll leave it.

(thanks again, Bill, for replying here )
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