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Unread 10-02-2011, 03:40 PM   #1
Topspin
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Channel Glass - SpectraLock or Latisil

Hi Guys,

This is a question about my own 3x5 shower tile project. Got to thinking about how to finish it only after its nearly done.

Situation: Whole shower will be Spectralock grout, with channel glass set below finish tile depth (of course), in most places, but flush set on the curb. I told my glass guy no curb penetrations, and with a Kerdiboard curb we can't do a channel set (per Schluter). So that left me with channel everywhere except the curb.

Now I have a glass panel across half of the curb, and the swinging door on the other half. One problem is, there is nothing keeping that panel centered on the curb but some tape right now, and there's the quandry. Glass guy says he always puts a clamp on the shower curb (penetrating the waterproof barrier), but with my obstinance, now there is nothing holding it in place.

He suggested just doing a Spectralock tooled joint on both sides of the curb glass to hold it in place. Kinda scary sounding as my porcelain is fairly smooth and not sure that Spectralock would be a permanant hold to that smooth stuff. Additionally, thinking about the 'change of planes' adhearance that I put on Silicone, thats what I'd think would be better. Glass guy says Silicone would not be enough to hold it in place on a flush curb. What to do?

Additionally, Glass guy says to "pack Spectralock in the channel joint between the glass and my tile. Holding the glass forever and making a waterproof joint." Again, thinking about change of planes and expansion - glass panels

One thing is for certain - I will reiterate from a previous post that I will never do a channel set again. Hated it. But now that I've got one, looking good, in my own bathroom:

Q1. How should I finish the channel glass to tile joint -

Q2. How to finish the glass to tile flush joint without a clamp (or recommend to do a clamp anyway)?

Left pic is the corner of two fixed glass panels joint (channel)
Right pic is at the corner of the vertical channel meeting the flush mount curb.

You guys who love channels please weigh in. Need to grout soon. Thanks
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Unread 10-02-2011, 03:56 PM   #2
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silicone will be plenty strong enough. Thats the route id go.
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Unread 10-02-2011, 04:09 PM   #3
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Sili makes sense to me, especially when you live in shaker country. (quakes) One good jolt and a hard joint might just leave me shattered.

But I still think of a Latisil joint as a "Maintenance Joint" so I'm open to options here.

Guess I have been a bit remiss on thinking about what happens after I leave my end of a finished job. Hadn't put too much thought into what the glass guy will do later. (other than my prepping wall studs for Frameless required stability)
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Unread 10-02-2011, 04:52 PM   #4
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Kevin,

Are you a risk taker ?

I really like the uniform look of the spectralock being used everywhere .

If you prefer a more by the book approach , especially in a seismic zone , the Latasil may be a safer route. Just check if the color chosen is available. I wouldn't worry about it not being able to hold the glass panel , Latasil is a very good product.
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Unread 10-02-2011, 05:10 PM   #5
TileArt1
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SpectraLOCK does not stick or adhere to glass - I learned that the hard, expensive way. I would use latasil in that - it will hold it much better.
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Unread 10-02-2011, 05:20 PM   #6
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Lat6isil- I offer no anecdote or data to back up my choice.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xEdJBvt8Lk8

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Unread 10-02-2011, 06:30 PM   #7
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Roger ,

Spectralock is recommended for glass tiles , so it should not be a problem for it to stick to the glass.
What problems did you have with the Spectralock on glass ?
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Unread 10-02-2011, 06:52 PM   #8
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Thanks for the input so far. The only issue with Latisil I've run into is that the tube I used so far, matches perfectly. But the two that I got later . . . not so close. So I'll keep trying Lati-roulette to see if I come up with another couple winners. "Couple" because those cavernous channels look like they'll suck up A LOT of silicone.

Other thot on Latisil/silicone - I got that baked-in type of glass sealer treatment stuff. wonder if that will repel Silicone and all, like its supposed to do to keep your glass looking good.??

Sounds like Silicone is trending to the lead so far. Discounting that comment from Mars that has no supporting evidence.

So what do you do for your frameless installs? Just tell the glass guy "No Penetrations, and let silicone do 100% of the work?" I'd find that hard to believe. Sounds to me like a good poll question.
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Unread 10-02-2011, 06:57 PM   #9
TileArt1
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I had spectaLOCK at change of plane between marble and glass block - did not stick to the glass block. Granted the situation is a whole lot different than glass tile, but it does apply to this particular scenario.
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Unread 10-02-2011, 07:00 PM   #10
Tool Guy - Kg
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Tempered glass + a hard bond = possible shattering.

I wouldn't even think about bonding the glass directly with SpectraLock in the channel (or on the curb where it's on top of the tile). All it takes is a small amount of differential expansion or contraction movement between the glass and the tile to stress it to the shattering point. Glass needs a tiny bit of elbow room. That's why glass is never set directly inside metal extrusions without a rubber strip to insulate it from point loads and differential movements. And if a glass panel is set with no metal extrusion against the tile, it should have a few clear strips of rubber to keep the glass from touching the tile.

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Unread 10-02-2011, 07:21 PM   #11
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Took me a few minutes to dig it up, but here's some compelling proof on a job Hamilton did several years ago that went south when a glass panel was not insulated from movement.

Now I'll be the first to say that this is a somewhat extreme example because we're dealing with curved glass. And any shrinkage of the mud channel encasing the glass translates into a change in shape. But it's a good lesson in insulating glass panels from movement so they aren't stressed.

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Unread 10-02-2011, 07:40 PM   #12
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Didn't have any problems with this one . It's been few years now , so far so good. Granted , is not the Spectralock , but the Kerapoxy.
Black on the floor , white on the walls. Much more difficult to make the epoxy --- Keeping the glass clean and free of haze , even with tape ---than the silicone.

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Unread 10-02-2011, 08:12 PM   #13
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Not sure Kevin. Why not use a clamp that is siliconed or epoxied to the curb? Or a clamp anchored (Bolt and epoxy) into the curb tile only but not penetrating the kerdi.

On the shower I just finished, home owners have gotten 5 glass bids and not one said they could do it without drilling into the curb. I have run into this so many times. They all say they will fill the hole with silicone but I'm leery of that.
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Unread 10-02-2011, 08:57 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark
They all say they will fill the hole with silicone but I'm leery of that.
Mine said the same, but then he hesitated on using silicone as the primary adhesive as he said that the silicone breaks down over time and eventually allows water penetration (leaks).

So if Silicone on the joint will leak over time, silicone in the screw holes would do the same.

OK then, How does Mr. Tile do it? Or His Royal Tile-ness. Or whoever is the epitome of tile and glass.

Its one of those dichotomies, no penetrations- yet adhesives will fail too.

If a simple Thermos knows how to keep hot things hot, and cold things cold, how come tile work has so many options with none of them being "the right way."
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Unread 10-02-2011, 09:00 PM   #15
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Quote:
how come tile work has so many options with none of them being "the right way."
Only took me a minute to figger that one out. The reason there is no one right way and so many wrong ways - is the reason why DIY'ers are afraid of tile. Guess it's our magnificent powers of deduction that allows us to divine the lowest risk way. I need to get the hat to help find my answers.
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