Bathroom 3 renovation

[rjwz2]

Hi. I'm going to renovate my last shower by removing the premade shower stall, tiling all 4 walls up to the ceiling, making a cement shower pan and installing stone pebbles for the shower floor. I'm going to extend the shower floor area out to where the tiles are now to make it a 3x6 size shower and put in a curb to cut off the roughly 30" area.

My first question is since I am going to concrete the floor pan can I do it over the existing tile that I have now outside the old shower door? The underneath of the tile is a concrete slab. I installed the tile several years ago and it is solid. I am making my curb out of concrete also. Can that go over the tile also? I'm guessing people will tell me to remove the tile but I guess it's worth asking since it will save me time.

Thanks for looking and for your responses.

Rob

[Davy]

I would remove the tile and move the drain to the center of the 3x6 area.

[rjwz2]

Davy, thanks for the response. I was not planning on moving the drain. Especially since it's in concrete. What is the reason for moving it?

Thanks,
Rob

[Davy]

You can leave it where it is if you want to. It does look better and makes the shower floor easier to tile if the drain is in the center.

[rjwz2]

Can I install my mud directly on the existing tile?

Thanks.

[Kman]

You can, but you're relying on the quality of the tile installation. At a bare minimum, I would check over the tiles to make sure they're well bonded. But I would recommend removing the tiles to install mud. You don't have to get into removing any thinset mortar underneath.

If you don't remove the tile, you would also need to take into account that the tiled area is about 1/2" higher than the floor under the current shower, so the mud bed would have to be thicker on that end.

We tend to err on the side of caution in showers because a failure means complete demolition and replacement almost 100% of the time. All it would take is for the tile to de-bond and tent up and your shower would be ruined.

[rjwz2]

So if I try removing a tile and it's a bitch to remove, can I leave it?

[Kman]

You can leave all of them if you want. I would just reiterate what I and Davy mentioned earlier about our recommendation to remove them.

If you do decide to go over them, you'll want to run a sander over them before applying the thinset mortar bond coat that will bond the mud to the floor.

[rjwz2]

Thanks Kevin and Davy. In either instance I figure I am supposed to lay down a layer of thinset before applying my first coat of mud to make the mud stick to my existing concrete slab?

[Davy]

Yes, the thinset acts as a bonder. Just make sure the thinset is wet when you dump the mud on it.

[rjwz2]

Thanks Davy. I'm going to start removing the existing tiles now.

[rjwz2]

Which type of thinset (modified or not) do I use for 12x24 porcelain tiles mounted on hardiebacker with redguard on the walls.
Also which type thinset for river rocks on mesh on top mud floor?

I picked up some modified versabond but not sure if I got the right stuff.

Thanks, Rob

[rjwz2]

Bump.

[rjwz2]

I already have a thread open under "bathroom 3 renovation" and I know I supposed to keep all questions under one thread but I asked this on Monday and still haven't gotten a response and I need to know as I will be working on it tomorrow and need answers.

Which type of thinset (modified or not) do I use for 12x24 porcelain tiles mounted on hardiebacker with redguard on the walls.
Also which type thinset for river rocks on mesh on mud floor?

I picked up some modified versabond but not sure if I got the right stuff.

Thanks, Rob

[Actuary]

Please read the installation instructions on the Redgard container for the answer to your question.