|
Sponsors |
|
|
 |
08-31-2013, 05:54 PM
|
#1
|
DIY'er
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 75
|
Bathroom Renovation
Hi everyone! Renovating a 1961 bungalow and am looking for some advise about the subfloor please. The room I am working in is currently a bedroom but is going to become the new master bathroom. The demolition is complete and after scraping off the old vinyl type floor tiles there is a thin layer of felt like substance stuck to the subfloors and it is not coming off. The subfloor is 5/8" TG plywood running perpendicular to the 2X10 Douglas Fir floor joists which are 16" OC and the joist span is 12.5'. I used the deflecto tool and got a thumbs up for ceramic tiles.
1- I believe I need to increase the thickness by adding another layer of plywood to the existing subfloor to accommodate the weight of ceramic tiles. What thickness should I use?
2- Does all the "felt" like material need to be scraped completely off the existing subfloor before installing the new plywood on top of it or can I just make it really level and screw it on?
Thank you in advance for your assistance!
__________________
Melody
|
|
|
08-31-2013, 06:22 PM
|
#2
|
Texas Tile Contractor
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Beaumont, Texas
Posts: 8,772
|
If it doesn't bulge up really high, I would think you could attach the new plywood over it. Having said that, can you use a 4" razor scraper to get it really close down to the old plywood? If you can, do it.
__________________
They didn't want it good, they wanted it Wednesday.
|
|
|
08-31-2013, 06:30 PM
|
#3
|
DIY'er
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 75
|
Thanks!
I have a scarping attachment for the sawzall and using it right now. It is taking up a lot of it thankfully. I was concerned if I had to glue the new plywood to the old subfloor it wouldn't bond but if I can just screw them together that will help a lot!
__________________
Melody
|
|
|
08-31-2013, 07:02 PM
|
#4
|
...unrepentant, detail focused, over-analyzer.
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 3,004
|
Hey Melody, welcome to the forum and happy holiday!
Have you verified the vinyl was laid directly over the plywood subfloor? Usually it's installed over 1/4 luan plywood which will need to come up too. Forgive me if I missed this info in your original post.
|
|
|
08-31-2013, 07:12 PM
|
#5
|
Texas Tile Contractor
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Beaumont, Texas
Posts: 8,772
|
He's right, Melody. ANY 1/4" plywood is generally a "No-No" to tile over. It really needs to be ripped out as it will swell when exposed to damp thinset and absolutely ruin your tile job. 1/4" is the only plywood that exhibits this problem.
If it's there, get it out!
__________________
They didn't want it good, they wanted it Wednesday.
|
|
|
08-31-2013, 07:23 PM
|
#6
|
...unrepentant, detail focused, over-analyzer.
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 3,004
|
Hey Laz, cool tag line
|
|
|
08-31-2013, 07:53 PM
|
#7
|
DIY'er
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 75
|
Thank you Laz and PC. I double checked and there is no 1/4" plywood on the subfloor. So for the plywood I add to the 5/8" subfloor, would 3/8" TG be sufficient?
__________________
Melody
|
|
|
08-31-2013, 10:11 PM
|
#8
|
Moderator emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 96,395
|
Welcome, Melody.
I would recommend nothing less than nominal 1/2" exterior glue plywood for you second layer even though 3/8ths" is technically the minimum.
My opinion; worth price charged.
|
|
|
09-01-2013, 07:41 AM
|
#9
|
DIY'er
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 75
|
Thank you CX.. will go with the 1/2 inch T/G exterior glue plywood. I have been doing some online pre-shopping and can not find anything better than a C grade or in many cases grades are not mentioned. Is that good enough or should I wait until actual lumber stores are open on Tuesday?
__________________
Melody
|
|
|
09-01-2013, 07:47 AM
|
#10
|
Moderator emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 96,395
|
Any grade of C or better is fine.
You do not need T&G for your second layer of subflooring. This is a good thing as you will not find half-inch material in a T&G style.
My opinion; worth price charged.
|
|
|
09-01-2013, 08:00 AM
|
#11
|
DIY'er
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 75
|
Excellent! Thank you for the correction! Would this do the trick?
Taiga Building Products 1/2 x 4 x 8 Spruce Sheathing Plywood
•Moisture and Swell Resistant
•Plywood is a highly impact-resistant panel and continues to perform even when wet
•Barrier/House Wrap Applied: No
•Environmental Certification: CSA
•Glue Type: Exterior
•Nominal Thickness in Inches: 1/2
•Panel Grade: C-C
•Plywood Type: Sheathing
•Pre-Cut: Yes
•Printed Nailing Pattern: No
•Species: Spruce
•Struct 1: No
•Type of Pressure Treatment: Untreated
•Warranty: Subject to normal construction environment
•Weather Exposure: Exterior
__________________
Melody
|
|
|
09-17-2013, 09:16 PM
|
#12
|
DIY'er
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 75
|
Good evening.. Just wondering if anyone has a picture of rough shower framing that I could look at to make sure I have the right idea. The shower I have to frame is rectangular, dimensions 36" x 48", I am going to try the mud deck and use kerdi membrane for waterproofing. I found this on Google is it how you guys do it?
__________________
Melody
|
|
|
09-17-2013, 09:27 PM
|
#13
|
Moderator emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 96,395
|
Melody, residential wood framing is a pretty straight forward process of fastening material, usually 2x4 and 2x6 dimension lumber, together to get the shapes and sizes you want. No way I can look at that photo and tell you if that's what you want to do for your shower not having any idea what you might be starting with. And I think it's a very bad idea for you to be posting photos like that on accounta people are gonna wanna base their answers on that being your framing.
If you could be a bit more specific with your question it might help. "Is it how you guys do it" isn't gonna buy you much. If I were framing that particular shower for that particular application, I might do it much that way. But it has parts that are not applicable to a Kerdi shower and may be lacking parts that might be important in your application.
If you're looking for a tutorial on wood framing in general, I'm afraid that might be a bit beyond the scope of our forums. If you have specific framing related questions, though, ask away and someone will likely be able to field most of them.
My opinion; worth price charged.
|
|
|
 |
 
 
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:59 AM.
|
|
|