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Unread 04-30-2008, 11:21 AM   #1
Thax
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Shower Wall is a Pocket Door

I have a shower that has one wall that houses a pocket door. Unfortunately the framing for the pocket door isn't as strong as a regular framed wall and there is a great deal of flex in the middle of the wall assembly. Currently there is only rough drywall on the wall, I was wondering if anyone had any ideas on stiffening the wall before the kerdi. My initial thought was adding a layer of ceiling drywall or CBU. What do you think?
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Unread 04-30-2008, 11:28 AM   #2
bbcamp
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You need more wood. Can you strip off the drywall and reframe the wall? It sounds like a lot of work, but you can't have a floppy wall with tile.
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Unread 04-30-2008, 11:52 AM   #3
Fairview
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I think Harry Dunbar over at North American tile had a similar situation and faced the wall with the pocket door with a sheet of plywood - probably 5/8 or 3/4 thick. Then your drywall / Kerdi etc.
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Unread 04-30-2008, 11:53 AM   #4
Fairview
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Yep - here's his sequence of pics including bracing the pocket door. Hope it's kosher to post the link here.

http://www.ontariotile.com/bathren1.html

Interestingly he has a heating register inside the shower near the ceiling. Never seen that before!
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Unread 04-30-2008, 11:57 AM   #5
Eagle35152
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Since it is a wall housing a pocket door, adding more wood behind the drywall would not be an option. What about building a wall against the existing one by standing up 2x4s flat against it. It would only take up an additional 2". Any thoughts out there on wether this would work for him?

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Unread 04-30-2008, 12:05 PM   #6
Thax
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Great ideas. I think I will use all of them. I will pull out the drywall and replace it with 3/4 ply then frame in a pillar at the shower opening near the pocket door opening to prevent any additional flexing at the opening where the wall is unsupported. I will leave the drywall as is near the door so that I can still trim around the door without problems.
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Unread 04-30-2008, 12:32 PM   #7
xxPaulCPxx
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This is what I did for my pocket door - no tile on it though. I wanted it to be thin, dense, stiff, and be able to hang pictures on it with ease.

I took a sheet of 3/4" A/C plywood and cut it to the size of the wall. It only spanned 7' bottom and top were face attached to header and sill. Along both vertical edges I used 1 1/2" galvanized steel channel, with the plywood touching one flange to the center of the web. I attached it with polyurathane construction adhesive and countersunk screws. If I needed more stiffening, I could have crossbraced with 3/4" galvanized steel channel attached on the outside of the flange. Total framing thickness in only 1 1/2", plus whatever you apply to the surface from there.
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