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Unread 01-28-2021, 05:17 PM   #46
ss3964spd
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Good progress, Nick.

Your sistering has effectively reduced your 16" OC joist spacing. At least one manufacturer of tile flooring products says they're a-ok with 5/8" plywood over 16 OC joists when using their underlayment product, and your 3/4" subfloor over <16" OC spacing comfortably exceeds that. Adding additional blocking wouldn't hurt, natch, and the OCD me might just be inclined to do that if OCD me was really convinced that doing so was imperative to saving 1/2" in floor height. I'd suppose the blocking would need to be fairly close together.
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Unread 01-28-2021, 05:43 PM   #47
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Nick, let's be clear here. You have added an additional joist on each side of each of the original joists that were spaced 16" on center. That correct?
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Unread 01-28-2021, 07:33 PM   #48
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Thanks Dan, I can relate and am trying to avoid OCDing my way into unnecessary work. And yes that is correct CX.
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Unread 01-28-2021, 07:50 PM   #49
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I'll hafta take issue with Dan just a bit. You've not changed the on-center spacing of your joists, but you have dramatically reduced the between-joist spacing by making the joists a whole lot thicker. If your subfloor is actually supported by all the new joists, the use of a single layer of nominal 3/4" plywood as your subfloor is a much more reasonable choice for a ceramic tile installation.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 02-22-2021, 10:45 PM   #50
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Damaged tile order

Hello I am in need of some wisdom and experience again from this generous forum.

I finally ordered my tile and picked it up from Home Depot. I ordered 18 cases of rectified 12x24 porcelain, allowing for 20% waste.

It was it all the same dye lot and caliber and looked intact, but when I got it home, I discovered that the 2 cases that were not a part of the 16 bundled on the pallet were damaged pretty badly.

So now in actuality, I'll be setting tiles with only a 10% "waste factor" (256 sqft for a 230 sqft area).

As an amateur this concerns me. I'm wondering what you all would do here, aside from not buying tile from HD .

I doubt HD will guarantee that any replacement will be from the same dye lot and caliber. Am I foolish to have them order more and hope that it will match this, even if it's a different lot/caliber?

Would I be completely out of line to return the whole order and order again, figuring for 30% waste?

Just curious what your thoughts are.
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Unread 02-22-2021, 10:52 PM   #51
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Were it mine, I'd return the entire order to Homer. If Homer says he can get you replacement tiles of the same lot as your 16 good boxes and you've time to wait and return the whole thing later when you and Homer find that he really wasn't able to fulfill that promise, perhaps do that, but, again, knowing how things work at Homer's I'd be inclined to simply return the entire order.

Nothing at all wrong with buying tile from Homer if you can get what you want. Operative word there is if.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 02-23-2021, 04:00 PM   #52
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~1 1/8" room height transition??

Thanks so much CX. I took your advice and placed a new order at HD.

I am now free to get back to stressing about my subfloor/underlayment situation

I was all prepared to go 3/4" ply-ditra-tile, but I've been thinking more about the importance of peace of mind. An extra layer of 1/2" plywood is not expensive or a ton of work.

But I mocked up the transitions for both cases (with and w/o the extra 1/2") and my wife commented right away that the taller transition (~1 1/8") looks very strange (pics attached).

That extra half inch just seems to make an enormous difference. The slope of such a ramp would be almost twice the recommended 1:8 (the doorway to the to the hall is right next to this, preventing the ramp from coming out past the door frame into the bedroom-it would be another trip hazard) I can't even find any pictures of something like this. I'm guessing I'd have to make up something custom.

So I'm wondering, does anyone have any pictures of a steep transition of >1" over 4-5 inches between rooms that could ease our minds?

Thanks again,
Nick
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Unread 02-23-2021, 04:59 PM   #53
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Nick, with your reduced between-joist span, a single layer of nominal 3/4" plywood is not at all unreasonable and is well within the guidelines of all known tile substrate manufacturers. I might even be willing to tile over that.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 02-23-2021, 07:13 PM   #54
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Haha, CX coming from you, I hear that as a message from above. Thanks! I think I just got a little thrown taking that broken tile back to HD this morning, hearing it rattle around in my trunk. Some very bad vibes

As for my subfloor, I've had time to overthink that as well. My gut tells me this is the way to go, keeping the short-edge seams away from the toilet and the transition from the bathroom floor to the shower floor.

What did I miss? (The shower subfloor (not in my sketch) will be sections of plywood between the joists, flush with their tops, supported by cleats and blocking all the way around each piece)

Thanks as always,
Nick
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Unread 02-23-2021, 08:57 PM   #55
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Nick, I'm not understanding how you've dropped your subfloor two inches, as indicated on your photo, simply by removing a section and lowering that section to the level of the joist tops. What am I missing?
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Unread 02-23-2021, 10:11 PM   #56
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CX I cut the joists in the shower area after sistering them twice each. The shower area is supported below by two bearing walls. Sorry if I wasn't clear.
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Unread 03-01-2021, 06:37 PM   #57
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Bathroom floor transition to curbless single slope shower

I have been seeing this type of curbless shower design a lot, but haven't been able to find any threads or details on the waterproofing and framing to accomplish it. The single slope to a linear drain creates a "mini wall" that the glass panel sits on, which is the area that concerns me.

I'm wondering if this profile sketch I made of this detail is similar to how any of you have made this work. I talked to a Schluter rep today who said he thought my approach would be fine, including the 1/4" drywall, but I just thought it would be helpful to get some more perspective from the experts here.

I thought reducing the portion of the tile extending off the subfloor by 1/4" was significant enough to make the glass install feasible, but I'm curious what others think.

Thanks,
Nick
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Unread 03-01-2021, 08:40 PM   #58
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Nick, I can't tell just what they've got in those photos, but in your drawing the problem I see is the joint between your glass and tile floor. You absolutely cannot sit that glass panel directly on the ceramic tile - well, not for long, I'm betting - and the best you can do is support it on some clear plastic bumpers made for the purpose in the glass industry and sealing the joint with some sort of flexible sealant. Depending upon a simple caulk joint for waterproofing in a shower is not something I'm comfortable doing. And depending upon that caulked joint to support the bottom of a large glass panel in that location is something I'd also be a bit skeptical about.

I've frequently set glass panels into a gap in the tile installation in similar situations, but always on top of a curb or the top of a short wall. Works quite well in such applications. Still a caulked joint, but not a simple, unsupported one, and not nearly as susceptible to physical abuse.

I think you might wanna work on that part of your design a bit. Not surprised that Schluter thinks the design is fine as there is no compromise of their product at all.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-01-2021, 10:10 PM   #59
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Thanks CX, I hear your concerns and that's why I posted my attempt. I was hoping someone could explain how they pulled it off.

I did plan on seating the glass in a channel or on some sort of supports, not directly on the tile. I just forgot to put that in the drawing because I was focused on the support issue.

Would you not be as concerned if the glass was set back 1/2" away from the ledge so it was vertically over the subfloor and joist?
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Unread 03-01-2021, 10:41 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick
Would you not be as concerned if the glass was set back 1/2" away from the ledge so it was vertically over the subfloor and joist?
Has nothing at all to do with that, Nick.
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