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Unread 10-18-2005, 05:13 PM   #1
WackyStacker
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 7
Going With The Mud Base

OK after much research and your advice
I've decided to do the mud base. I figured
I would post a few pictures so you can see
where I'm at and my progress because I'm
certain while doing the mud base I will have
several questions or help?

Thank You in advance for any help if you
feel like tackling this one, many THANKS!

I wanted you to see the exact products I plan to finish the
second bathroom with by showing you my first project......
(see first picture of completed job below, faucet, handles and
shower head are to the left, second bathroom is directly behind that)


Here we go...........
I've removed all the old tile & greenboard.

The pipes or seals seemed to be leaking by the shower handles
and faucet, all 3. Greenboard was wet after 4 days of NO use and
insulation and greenboard (pipe side) had spray marks everywhere.

I found the leaks. There is ceiling damage downstairs.
We initially thought this was an old leak from when the
toilet had overflowed BUT......NOT!
It is indeed the shower PIPES or ???
How should I go about tackling this problem?
Think the seats are bad or? Think I need a plumber?!
OR do you think some NEW parts might cure the problem.
It's NOT wet right now
I don't think it's the pan because the greenboard was
wet by the fixtures but won't know until I
remove it which leads me to.........

I'm getting ready to take out the old shower pan.
I've read but I'm not sure how and advice?


NOTE: crooked wood everywhere



NEXT
there are a few crooked studs, I want to do an indenture for the
shampoo and maybe a soap one too.
am also going to build the cinder block bench seat
John Bridge Cinder Block Shower Seat

am also building a partial step type wall with both
tile and glass block INSTEAD of having shower doors.
I'll get to that later, keep in mind the tile I'll be using.

Question? Should all the wood parts be straight?
The current job is very shabby,
should I replace the crooked and cracked wood parts?



Question? How should I build that wall? 2" x 4"s attached
to the studs & floor? then cement board, then tile, then
glass blocks on top of the tiles? Is that the right order?
Am using 6 x 8 glass blocks in a step pattern. Make sense?



Thanks!
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Unread 10-18-2005, 06:05 PM   #2
Tool Guy - Kg
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Wackystacker,
There is a lot you got going on in that last post. I'm having a hard time associating all the pics with the comments, problems, and questions so I'm going to start off with a couple of general comments to get the ball rolling.

First, how old is the existing plumbing tub/shower mixer valve? Nearly 100% of the time I redo a bath or shower, a new mixing valve is installed by a plumber. The only time I'd consider leaving it alone is if it were only a few years old.

Your un-plumb stud walls. The worse they are, the more chance you have for a finished tile surface with lots of lippage. So spend some time getting them plumb, and in-line with each other so that you end up with a flater plane surface. The flater the wall, the easier it is to tile them and end up with a flat tiled surface.
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Unread 10-18-2005, 06:10 PM   #3
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Welcome aboard. Please list a first name.

Get the demolition done so we can see what we have to deal with. You'll be installing a new drain for sure. Straightening or replacing studs is carpenter's work. We don't handle that here.

Kidding.
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Unread 10-18-2005, 06:52 PM   #4
WackyStacker
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Mixer Valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tool Guy - Kg

First, how old is the existing plumbing tub/shower mixer valve? Nearly 100% of the time I redo a bath or shower, a new mixing valve is installed by a plumber. The only time I'd consider leaving it alone is if it were only a few years old.

OK first things first...............

My name is Robin

What is a "mixer valve"
The house is 30 years old

Before I continue any further I need to hire a plumber?
To fix or replace the mixer valve?

Thanks,
Robin
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Unread 10-18-2005, 06:54 PM   #5
Tool Guy - Kg
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Hi Robin,
The mixer valve is the plumbing fixture that combines the hot and cold water lines together to give you water of desired temperature out the tub spout or shower head. It is essentially the faucet for the bathtub.

If the mixer is 30 years old, it's time for a new one. They run from $125 or so to $200 ish. You can spend more or less, but most fit in this range if they don't have a gold finish.
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Unread 11-03-2005, 11:55 AM   #6
WackyStacker
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Mixer Valve

OK Thank You Tool Guy

I called a plumber and well they never showed up so
I took it as an omen. haha

I went to HD and got all the stuff to change the valve myself.
All went well and the new valve has been installed. That was
kind of fun.

I have removed the old pan and now I need to remove the old drain?
I'm going to post a photo later today and ask my question at that time.

Many thanks for your help!

Robin
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Unread 11-03-2005, 12:29 PM   #7
mike-xxqx
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Hi Robin,
I am an amateur with one CBU wall/mud pan under my belt. I've learned for the next one that I will use Kerdi. There's only one level of pan to mess with. When the grout leaks the membrane will catch it much faster than the way I built mine. Also last night cutting tiles to go around the Oatey drain I realized the genius behind the Kerdi square drain. I think the transition between wall and glass blocks would have been easier and better by gluing the Kerdi to the shower (per John) rather than using Red Guard ($35/bucket, you need 1/2 pint). The idea of Kerdi completly lining a niche just about seals the deal. A little more out of pocket up front, but sounds a lot easier. Just one new kid's view.

mike

ps If you haven't already done it buy and download a copy of John's "THe Kerdi Shower Book". It's ten bucks well spent.
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