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Unread 04-11-2011, 12:51 PM   #1
pearl13
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Backerboard installation and tile questions

Hi I am hoping for a few answers. I have never tiled anything before so bear with me.
I want to tile my bath/shower surround.
First hardibacker is up with 6ml poly behind it. Along the entire back wall I have a ledge built in about 7-8 inches above the tub. Its about 3.5 inches wide. (had to bump the tub out some to miss floor joist, ugh!) When cutting out the hardibacker for the end walls the cutouts to go over the ledge didnt come out quite right, so now I have about a 1 to 1.5 inch wide gap at one corner about 4 to 5 inches long where I can see thru to my poly. How do I remedy this? Fill with silicone caulk, thinset and tape over, tape over then thinset , stick in a scape of backerboard?
Also for the joints between the boards they are quite tight I have read to thinset these, put tape over and smooth thinset over again. Also some have said they silicone caulk it and smooth out to be level with panals. Some tape over that...some dont. So I am confused. I Would like to caulk and smooth out and walk away. Can I do that? If I HAVE to thinset do I also do that in the corners or caulk that? I know I caulk under the boards between the tub and backerboard.
I have a couple tile questions but I can ask those later after I address this...although I would like to know one thing before I go buy supplies. I am putting in either 6X6 or 6X8 inch white ceramice tiles. I would like to take a 12X12 inch matt of one inch mosaic glass squares ,cut them two squares high and make a stripe running around the walls at about 5 ft. Can I use the same thinset that I am using on the ceramic or do I have to use something made for glass? Same thing for grout?
Thanks in advance for any help!!
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Unread 04-11-2011, 01:27 PM   #2
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Pearl, that badly cut piece of backerboard is called a "do-over." We learn from them and promise to do the replacement better.

Where adjacent panels of backerboard are tightly butted together, take one down and remove enough material to get about 1/8" of clearance. You need this for the tape and thinset to make the wall as monolithic as possible. Taping and mudding can be done at the same time as setting the tiles, just don't forget to do it.

If you use a good quality modified thinset for your tiles, you can use the same for the glass accents. Same for grout.
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Unread 04-11-2011, 02:17 PM   #3
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Thanks for the speedy reply Bob! I was afraid you would say that about the bad cut in the backerboard.
I am afraid I won't get the hubby to cooperate with that one thou. (He's a treat to do a project with)
I will have to come up with something unfortunately even if its not "right"
I am glad to hear I can thin set and tape as I tile thou. That helps!


Few more questions if anyone can help?????


I am buying my stuff from H.D. Is it just the flexbond that I should be using.
I know unsanded grout, (right?)
I like the look of small grout lines. But from what I am reading H.D. 's cheaper tiles can be various sized so I should do a larger grout line?? I wanted like 1/16. Would 3/16 be enough instead do you think? Or do you have another recomendation?
Tiles are going to ceiling. Backerboard meets new drywall ceiling. Do I not tape and finish the juncture where they meet and just tile to very top and run a bead of caulk at ceiling line? Also at the outside corner the backerboard meets flush with the face of the new drywall. (edge of tub is flush with drywall) How do I finish this corner. On backerboard side tile goes right to the edge, on outside wall I will see the edge of the 1/2 in. backerboard and the side of the drywall butted up to it. Do I put a corner bead up and just thinset and tile up backerboard side and drywall compound up the drywall side. If so is it Ok to use metal or will that rust? And do they even sell a plastic drywall cornerbead. (i guess probably, they seem to have everything)!! Or do I tape it and finish as stated??
ok Think I am about out of questions! Thanks for any help!
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Last edited by pearl13; 04-12-2011 at 08:27 PM.
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Unread 04-14-2011, 06:47 AM   #4
pearl13
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Can I use a Nonvitreous tile?

I just found out the tile I was considering for my tub/shower surround is a nonvitreous tile with more than 7% water absorbtion. Does that mean I wouldnt want to use that? I thought in the shower I would want a vitreous or semivitreous tile. Or am I just not educated properly on this? If I can use this then what does that do to a tile that can absorb so much water being exposed to water all the time? Will it not hold up as well as some other options?
Thanks for any input!
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Unread 04-14-2011, 06:50 AM   #5
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A non-vitreous tile will absorb water. It won't deteriorate, it simply stays wet. The bad thing about that is that it can promote mold growth. Another bad thing is that if the glaze is clear or transluent, you will see the water in the tile as dark areas. With so much porcelain out there, it makes sense to keep looking for something else for your tub surround, and use this tile elsewhere.
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Unread 05-10-2011, 09:06 PM   #6
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mosaic tile

Could someone please help.
I have my 12 inch ceramic tiles mostly up. After I have 4 rows up I would like to run a strip of glass mosaic tiles. They are 1 in. X 1 in. and mounted on mesh backing. I have them cut 3 tiles high. I am using versabond. Can I mount the mosaic and let them set for 24 hours then come back and continue up the wall with another row and a half of 12 in. ceramic tiles (going to ceiling).Or do I have to leave the mosaic area open for now, set another ledger board and continue to ceiling. Come back after they are set and fill in the mosaic? Thank you in advance.
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Unread 05-10-2011, 09:10 PM   #7
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Pearl,

Either method will work. Pick the best for you.

Most Pro's skip over the mosaic as time is a factor for us, doing the ledger speeds the install. Since you're doing the work, take the time to do it well.

You may find it easier to insert a block of wood and lay the top tiles then come back for the mosaics as that makes it easier to keep the face of the mosaics flush with the face of the field tiles.

Choose wisely grasshoppah
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Unread 05-11-2011, 08:33 PM   #8
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mosaic tile

Looks like I am going to have to cut the actual glass tile itself to make it fit. I have tile nippers both straght and a wheeled one, a wet saw with a tile blade and I can borrow a score and snap saw if necessary. What should I use to get the straightest most accurate cut? Anyone? Thanks!
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Unread 05-12-2011, 05:13 AM   #9
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The cheapest thing would to try your tile blade first. If it gives you satisfactory cuts, then you're golden. Next would be to get a glass cutter (same as for window glass). Score the glass, the use pliers with the jaws padded with duct or painter's tape to snap the glass along the score line. If all else fails, buy a glass blade for your tile saw.
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Unread 05-12-2011, 06:28 AM   #10
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Use this technique to get a clean edge, then flip the tile over so the cut edge gets hidden next to the field tile and not the exposed edge.
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Unread 05-12-2011, 12:22 PM   #11
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Mosaic tile

Bob I am afraid to use the wet saw, I thought the water might mess up the meshing that the tiles are adhered to?

I see nooone has mentioned using nippers so that must not be the way to go. I don't have a glass cutter, so I am thinking I should borrow the score and snap saw that I mentioned?? That would seem like it would work, right?
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Unread 05-12-2011, 02:03 PM   #12
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Glass cutter should be less than $10 at any hardware store. Besides, everyone needs one of these in their toolbox.

Yes, the wet say may dissolve the mesh. Apply a couple of layers of painter's tape to both sides of the tile, mark the tape where you want to cut, then cut through tape and all. Check for chipping. If OK, remove the tape from the back side, apply to wall, then remove the tape from the front after the thinset sets up a bit.
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Unread 05-12-2011, 04:11 PM   #13
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And keep a few old bath towels right next to the wet saw. Place one towel laid flat on a table so the wet cut tiles can be immediately placed on top and blotted dry.
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Unread 05-12-2011, 07:23 PM   #14
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mosaic tile

Perfect! Thank you so much for the clarification and detailed explanation, it helped alot. I feel much more comfortable tackling this now!
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