Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Unread 08-12-2020, 08:24 AM   #31
cx
Moderator emeritus
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 96,102
You want a Type S at least for all your fat-mud needs, Skyler. Type S contains more Portland cement than Type N, but less than Type M. Type M will work, too, but you'll more commonly find Type S in your home center.

My opinion; worth price charged.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-15-2020, 08:32 AM   #32
zinctoo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Florida, USA
Posts: 51
I bought type M mortar and mudded my curb last night. It's drying now, here's hoping that I did it right! I did put a 1/8" - 1/4" pitch on it towards the drain. On the 2x4 underneath the pan liner and lath, I did the same, so the pan liner is pitched towards the drain as well.

I plan to install a solid piece of marble on top of the curb, and a sliding glass door (semi-frameless) on top of that. I will not be drilling into the curb to install it: the door will be attached to the wood side walls and siliconed to the curb.

It occurred to me this morning that it might be problematic to install the shower door bottom on this slope like I've created. Will this be a problem? Or is curb pitch a normal thing to account for during a shower during installation?

Thanks in advance!
__________________
Skyler
zinctoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-16-2020, 02:41 PM   #33
zinctoo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Florida, USA
Posts: 51
One other question. I'm putting up PermaBase CBU today. I left a half inch gap between the bottom of the CBU and the PVC pan liner. I plan to paint it with Mapei Aquadefense and I was hoping to build my tile base of deck mud today as well.

Do I paint my CBU with Aquadefense (all coats) and let that dry before I build my final tile base of deck mud? Or do I build the tile base first, let that dry, then paint on the Aquadefense?
__________________
Skyler
zinctoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-16-2020, 05:14 PM   #34
cx
Moderator emeritus
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 96,102
Your curb waterproofing must be sloped to drain and the finished top should be as well. If your curb is less than six inches wide you're talking only about 1/8th" of slope and you should have no trouble making any sort of glass enclosure work on that.

I recommend you apply your wall waterproofing before you install your final mud shower floor, Skyler, but you can do it either way. I recommend you do not coat the bottom edge of the wallboard with the waterproofing membrane. That's the only route moisture in your wallboard will ever have to the receptor.

My opinion; worth price charged.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-18-2020, 10:02 AM   #35
zinctoo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Florida, USA
Posts: 51
CX, thank you! About not painting the bottom edge of my CBU with AquaDefense, that's great, you answered a question that I had but hadn't yet asked.

I'm going to be tiling the floor of this bathroom as well. It's 7' x 5' (roughly). We'll be using 5" hex tiles. The house is slab on grade, built in the late 1960s, and so far as I can tell from any of the exposed slab (which is the whole house right now), I don't see any cracks. The bathroom has a layer of leveling compound on it, installed some time in the past.

Should I use a crack isolation membrane between the slab and the bathroom floor tile?
__________________
Skyler
zinctoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-18-2020, 11:54 AM   #36
cx
Moderator emeritus
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 96,102
There have been many, many acres of ceramic tiles successfully installed directly onto SOG floors over the decades, Skyler. If the slab cracks, the tiles will crack. If the slab doesn't, the tiles won't. Entirely up to you whether a crack isolation product would give you more peace of mind.

My opinion; worth price charged.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-21-2020, 08:48 AM   #37
zinctoo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Florida, USA
Posts: 51
CX, thanks. AquaDefense says it's a crack isolation membrane; maybe I'll use that on the bathroom floor.

Quick question for you or the group: I had to remove a sheet of PermaBase that I'd just installed for plumbing access for some unexpected work. Can I reattach the PermaBase using the same screw holes, or in your experience, will this lead to a weak install? Should I purchase a new board to replace it?
__________________
Skyler
zinctoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-21-2020, 08:51 AM   #38
cx
Moderator emeritus
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 96,102
I'd put new fasteners in new places and fill the old fastener holes.

My opinion; worth price charged.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-21-2020, 08:54 AM   #39
zinctoo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Florida, USA
Posts: 51
Fill the holes with thinset?
__________________
Skyler
zinctoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-21-2020, 09:57 AM   #40
cx
Moderator emeritus
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 96,102
That would be adequate and could be done in conjunction with your filling and taping of the seams in your CBU installation.

My opinion; worth price charged.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-30-2020, 12:40 PM   #41
zinctoo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Florida, USA
Posts: 51
Afternoon everybody. Getting back to this project today.

Prior to installing my pan liner, I notched out the studs surrounding it at least 1/4". In the very corner shown in this photograph, I notched it closer to 1/2". Additionally, the blocking is set back at least 1/4" as well.

However, my Permabase is visibly bowed out in the bottom corner shown in the photograph below. I don't know what is pushing this out. I'm guessing that the bend of the folds is more than the 1/4" that I've made available.

I can push in this corner with a good amount of force with a couple of fingers. If I push with two hands, it's much easier.

Can I use my tile base of deck mud to push in the bowed out Permabase corner? In order to do this, I would need to hold force against it while building the tile base—using something like 2x4" pushing against it from the other side of the shower—only releasing it once the deck mud had dried. In this scenario, I'd paint on AquaDefense after I've built the tile base.
Attached Images
  
__________________
Skyler
zinctoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-30-2020, 01:36 PM   #42
cx
Moderator emeritus
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 96,102
Might work, but I wouldn't count on it. Much better idea would be to remove the CBU and find out why it's being pushed out like that. Maybe notch a little more room in the framing.

You could brace it and hope the mud holds it in place after you remove the brace and repair your mud bed. That top mud bed wants to be monolithic and not have any patches, but you might get by with your plan. Operative word there is might.

My opinion; worth price charged.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-30-2020, 09:02 PM   #43
zinctoo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Florida, USA
Posts: 51
CX, I pulled the Permabase and chiseled out a good chunk of wood in that corner. I pushed the supply pipe as far back into the wall as I could and secured it with a strap. I need to clean up the wood with sandpaper, but my goodness, this should make plenty of space available for the folded corner of the pan liner.

I'll be doing the same to the other corners and studs tomorrow.
Attached Images
 
__________________
Skyler
zinctoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-30-2020, 09:07 PM   #44
cx
Moderator emeritus
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 96,102
Sounds like a good plan to me, Skyler.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-31-2020, 07:15 PM   #45
zinctoo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Florida, USA
Posts: 51
CX, I don't suppose I need to worry about any jagged edges of the wood I've chiseled away penetrating the PVC pan liner, eh? This liner has to be more durable than that.
__________________
Skyler
zinctoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:34 AM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC