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Unread 08-14-2022, 01:51 PM   #1
rstreet
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Master bath gut

Started a new project, not by choice ...shower started leaking plus the wife never really liked what was there. We have already gutted everything, but I have a couple questions/concerns.

What we are working with:

Subfloor: 3/4" plywood
Joist: 2x10, 12" oc, 12' span
Deflection = L/610

Plan is/was to go back with Laticrete Hydro Ban boards, the pre-sloped floor in shower, Strata Mat on the floor, free standing tub where the old tub was and new vanaties.

Questions to follow.

Randy
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Unread 08-14-2022, 02:00 PM   #2
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We have 2 current problems that I need advice on.

1. There is a slight hump in the red highlighted area giving me ~1/8” rocking. Im assuming I need to solve for this since we want to use 6”x36” plank flooring. Since it runs the length of the area we are tiling whats the best option?
  • Cut out a section of the subfloor and fix the joist?
  • If yes, any worries about hacking up the subfloor into sections I need to work?
  • I was thinking of removing 2 joist sections worth, roughly 24” x 96” and plane down that joist.

2. In the shower area, the floor is flat but out of level. Im about ½” higher against the outside wall.
  • I put the level against the wall, high spot is on the right in the image.
  • I put a ½” piece of plywood under the low end and here is what I get.
  • I was thinking about cutting out the floor in the shower and making the joist level just in the shower area.
  • The curb would hide that the subfloor is 1/2” higher on that end of the shower.

All advise is welcomed.

Randy
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Unread 08-14-2022, 03:30 PM   #3
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Welcome back, Randy.

1. Generally, it's acceptable to have patches in your subfloor so long as your patch covers a minimum of two joist bays and you have adequate fastening, especially at the outer edges, which is frequently difficult. There is some advantage to having the close joist spacing, but the principle still applies. And, of course, that your plywood is oriented correctly with the strength axis perpendicular to the joists.

2. I would recommend you do nothing at all to that floor and correct the situation when you place your mortar pre-slope. Technically, you're supposed to have the subfloor within 1/4" per foot flatness before placing a mortar bed, but practically that's not gonna be a factor at all for your shower pre-slope.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-14-2022, 03:59 PM   #4
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Hi CX!

I might not of been clear, we were going to use the Hydro Ban Pre-Sloped Pan. Does that change #2?

The pan is 48"x48" but we were going to cut it down to 42"x48". The drain is currently centered for that opening. To finish out the floor we also bought the 24"x48" extension which will get cut down to match the diagonal piece where the curb & door will go.

Thanks

Randy
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Unread 08-14-2022, 04:21 PM   #5
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Yes, it would, but you said pre-slope, and no pre-slope is required when using the direct bonded waterproofing membranes. I see now that I misinterpreted your use of "pre-sloped." But the subfloor needs be near perfectly level and flat to use those foam shower trays. Very near.

Far easier and far, far less expensive to make your own sloped shower floor using mortar to perfectly fit your shower footprint and drain location. And without much regard to the lack of flat or level of your subfloor. Time you get that subfloor corrected you could likely already have a sloped shower floor with your waterproofing membrane on it.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-14-2022, 04:55 PM   #6
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Well...guess that explains why all those proson Youtube were doing what you described and not using the pan in a box.

My problem is we already purchased and I cant send back so I need to figure out how how to make it work.

What do you think about my original thought of cutting out the floor in the shower and hiding the height repair in the curb?

Lesson learned of getting everything figured out first before buying things.

Attaching a sketch of the shower floor, the color of the floor just represents the 2 different pieces of the Hydro Ban floor and the 27" on the diagonal is the door opening.

Randy
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Unread 08-14-2022, 05:44 PM   #7
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I have no problem at all with your proposed floor repair, Randy, but keep in mind that you've gotta get it dead flat and level. Keep in mind also, that with cutting down those foam pieces you ensure you will not have a level perimeter for your shower floor. That will show up come time to tile the walls. Maybe a consideration for you, maybe not.

We have a Buy/Sell/Trade forum here on the site. Fella might could divest himself of those foam pieces, save some dinero, and give someone else a really good deal. Just a thought.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-21-2022, 11:04 AM   #8
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The subfloor has been cut out and we have cleaned up the top of the joist. Running from left to right, I need to raise the height roughly 1/2".

Should I:

Cut down some 2 by and shim the top on the joist, glue & screw.

or

Sister new 2 by material next to existing joist. Current joist are 2x10. If I did this would I just use 2x10 glued and screwed to current joist? Or can I use a 2x8 or 2x6?

Thanks in advance.

Randy
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Unread 08-21-2022, 12:37 PM   #9
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I would always elect to sister to flatten or level the joist tops, Randy. 2x4 material would actually be sufficient, but I'd prefer 2x6 just for the ease and effectiveness of gluing and fastening.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-22-2022, 07:59 AM   #10
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Definitely easier to sister them, Randy. You can clamp them in place and get them adjusted just right before committing them with screws. Regardless of 2X4's or 6's pick them carefully.
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Unread 08-28-2022, 06:42 PM   #11
rstreet
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Got the joist sistered. I glued and screwed with 10-3" construction screws and 3-3/8" bolts per joist.

Cut a new piece of subfloor and got it fitted in the opening. Im waiting to secure it until I get farther along in the whole tray fitting and plumbing process.

Bought one of those fancy Stabila electronic levels but it didnt get here until I had finished the sistering but it looks like everything turned out ok.

Im going to work on the walls next making sure they are plumb and flat.

Randy
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Unread 09-01-2022, 05:53 AM   #12
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A lotta work, Randy, looks good. Probably needless to say, but don't forget the blocking at the ends of those joist bays so you have something to support the plywood edges.
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Unread 09-19-2022, 04:03 PM   #13
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Weve been busy with work and the kids programs on the weekends...been tough to get some stuff done.

The blocking is done for the most part, still need to put in 2 more pieces.

We got the sheetrock on the ceiling replaced and put in a new exhaust fan. Based off some reading here, we went with the Panasonic Whisper Quiet. Thats a very nice fan if anybody is looking. Also had to remove the 3-gang box and put in a 4-gang one. Could have got by with the 3, but it also has a night light and we put it on its own switch.

Next on the agenda is to start on the walls getting them in shape for the HydroBan boards.

Randy
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Unread 09-20-2022, 07:21 AM   #14
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Those are nice fans, Randy. Worth the spend. I was pretty sure the first one I installed was bad out of the box. I tried to test it before installing and to my surprise, no spin, just kind of a brief wiggle. Disconnect, reconnect, same thing.
Turns out the DC motor and associated inverter take some time to get their act together.

You'll like working with the Hydro Ban boards. Don't forget Laticrete's adhesive/sealer.
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Unread 09-20-2022, 06:00 PM   #15
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Thanks Dan. I set ours on 100 CFM and you cant even hear it run...night and day difference to the old one that was in there.

Randy
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