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Unread 07-24-2022, 08:56 PM   #1
Snets
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My Friend's Bathroom

Started a new job/project for a friend last month. It's a small bath remodel which will include a new shower, and a full tile wall outside of the shower behind the toilet and vanity, floor to ceiling - 3"X8" subway like tiles with sorta wavy edges.....not sure what will be more fun, the hex tiles in the bath I did earlier, or this one.

Nobody is in a hurry on this project which works for me. Demo went well until I found the entire exterior wall was full of dry rot. It's been re-framed and re-sided with a new window. Floor is a slab, which is a first for me. I'll be leaving the drain in the same place with a dry-pack mud receptor. Shower will be a bit longer than the old one in the photo as that box-out on the right was hollow and they chose to extend the width of the shower - so the drain is not centered left to right.

My first question: The plumbing includes a hand shower with a drop-ell for the hose. It will use a 1/2" pipe nipple to go from copper plumbing to the chrome, decorative ell inside shower. Is there a way to calculate the nipple length, or the female fitting setback behind the wall (using a known nipple length) to ensure a sealed connection with the decorative ell firm against the tile when installing the ell?

I found the below instructions from a different manufacturer which calls for 3/8" past tile, wondering if that is typical.
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Unread 07-25-2022, 06:45 AM   #2
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New project, new fun.

Nipple length for those wall hose connections are not typical, John, I found them to be all over the place. But the rule of thumb is the lower the profile the less wiggle room.

The one I used in my master, and will use in my guest, is a Grohe unit and offers generous fore/aft leeway, 7/8" IIRC. It does stand very proud of the tile surface, but I paired with a matching Grohe slide bar/hand held.
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Unread 07-26-2022, 10:19 AM   #3
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Hey John,

Use a temporary stub out nipple as you are completing the tile work. I always use a short galvanized nipple with a cap on the end. Just make sure it's long enough to stick out enough to get a wrench on it after the tile is set.
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Unread 08-01-2022, 09:39 PM   #4
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This project is going to test my tile layout skills to the maximum, for sure.

There will be a new 43" wide vanity (free-standing, but secured to wall) on the right side, next to the toilet. It stands 36" tall to the top of the marble top. The entire wall, floor to ceiling, behind the vanity and toilet, and into the shower will be tile. There is a niche and a window on the back wall of the shower, and the tile will terminate outside the shower on the left wall.

I want to begin with whole tiles as the "backsplash" on the countertop and then continue into the shower in a 50% overlap pattern. Tiles are 2-11/16" X 7 and something inches, sort of subway-ish, with wavy edges. I am hoping to:

1) Land at the ceiling and baseboard and shower floor with no "slivers" - I think I have this covered based on calculations.

2) Cross the horizontal lines of the top and bottom of the window and niche with no "slivers".

Fingers crossed that my math is solid.

I picked up a nice laser level to assist me with the tile setting over a long wall, and it turns out that I wish I would have bought one of these a long time ago. What a big help in getting my Kerdi Board perfect around the window and niche even with not-so-perfect existing framing.
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Unread 08-06-2022, 07:24 AM   #5
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I'd want the vanity installed before tiling.

The window and ceiling are fixed. There really isn't any adjustment on them. The vanity can be adjusted a slight amount. Maybe 1/2 inch?

The more things you can adjust later the better the layout goes. I wouldn't cut that niche out until I had tile running up the wall.
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Unread 08-18-2022, 09:19 PM   #6
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Well, after finishing up all of the electrical and my drywall guy finishing up, I went to install the vanity last week and realized the plumbing all needed to be moved to accommodate a larger vanity than previous with an offset sink...luckily, this wall will be all tile so it was not one that was refinished.

Another holdup was the floor below the vanity - the floating wood floor was cut around the old vanity. I had planned on making a toe-kick behind the legs of the new vanity to conceal the missing flooring. No, I was told. They had leftover flooring and wanted it patched. I patched it and it looks great, nobody will ever see the seam as it is about 6" under the vanity. I'm glad she insisted on doing it that way.

Vanity is in now and I have finally set some tile this morning. My friend's wife wanted 100% full tiles above the marble vanity top so that is where I started and that wall will continue left behind the toilet into the shower. Laser level shows I am in good shape at the niche so the window should be good too, if I've done my math correctly.

I was leery of this wavy, blue subway. I looks fantastic.
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Unread 08-20-2022, 10:14 AM   #7
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I like the blue tile too! Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

Do you have a method already in mind for grouting the tile? grout release/ sealer/ grout bag? I don't know what might be the best / least labor method, but my limited experience with some textured tile involved a lot of scrubbing for the clean-up
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Unread 08-20-2022, 12:04 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilWA
Do you have a method already in mind for grouting the tile? grout release/ sealer/ grout bag?
One advantage I have is that the tile is very glossy. Otherwise, starting in a small area to see how it goes before committing to a large batch. I'll be using Prism grout.

Last edited by Snets; 08-20-2022 at 11:07 PM.
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Unread 08-24-2022, 09:58 PM   #9
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Shower Bench Install

A few weeks ago, my friend's wife decided she wanted a folding, wall-mounter shower bench. I already had the Kerdi Board up, but not sealed. I pulled the Kerdi board from the side wall of the shower and installed 3/4" plywood backing on cleats in the area where THIS bench will go.

I cannot imagine installing all of the tile, drilling the holes for this bench and installing it without compromising the waterproofing - even if I filled the holes with Fix or silicone. So here is my plan and I'd welcome feedback.

Once I identify the height of the bench, prior to any tile, set stainless steel hanger bolts through the Kerdi board and into the plywood at the proper location for the bench mounts ( I believe there are 3-4 screws on each of the two mounts).

Then, seal the bolts at the surface of the Kerdi board with Kerdi Fix. Then seal the top of the bench mounts to the tile, with silicone, once mounted.

I feel way more confident with this method as opposed to finishing tile, then mounting the bench, hoping that it gets sealed by squirting something in the holes before driving the bolts home.
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Unread 08-25-2022, 10:40 AM   #10
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I kind of think that you're overthinking it. What would the difference be between sealing the bolts before you tile and sealing them afterward?

Either way, the waterproofing is penetrated and then sealed with sealant. Also, the shower door guy is going to drill through the tile.

You're going to be drilling about 15-20 inches high. I think you'll be OK as far as water intrusion goes.

Good thinking putting the framing in behind.
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Unread 08-29-2022, 08:39 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiger Mountain Tile Inc
I kind of think that you're overthinking it. What would the difference be between sealing the bolts before you tile and sealing them afterward?
I do overthink things. Guilty. The difference I believe is using the hanger bolts, pre-tile, I can see and be sure of the seal between the bolt and the Kerdi Board.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilWA
Do you have a method already in mind for grouting the tile? grout release/ sealer/ grout bag? I don't know what might be the best / least labor method, but my limited experience with some textured tile involved a lot of scrubbing for the clean-up
I got the tile installed behind where the toilet goes and grouted that area so I could get the new toilet in and make it back into a half-bath. First time using Prism and it went very well and very consistent color.

Dang this is a lot of tiles! Taking a lot more time than I hoped due to the wavy edges too. Because a full tile was required at the top of the vanity countertop, I was going to end up with a sliver at the ceiling. I presented a couple options in lieu of a sliver and the "soldier" course was what she ultimately chose and she is very happy with it.
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Unread 09-01-2022, 06:04 AM   #12
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That IS a lot of tile. Looks good though!
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Unread 09-01-2022, 09:44 AM   #13
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Looking awesome!
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Unread 09-02-2022, 10:26 PM   #14
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Got into the niche today. I wanted to post these pics because I have seen several other posts asking about using profiles around a niche/window, etc. I do like metal edge profiles, but they are an art of sorts. For us DIY'ers, any transition of plane such as a niche, a plan is necessary. It's not a difficult proposition but it does need to be thought out ahead of time.

There are a couple ways to do this:

1) set your wall tile with the edge profile then fill in the inside tiles of the niche.

2) Set the profile inside the niche and then tile it on the wall and inside.

I chose to set the profile with my wall tile on this one and it worked out.
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Unread 09-05-2022, 10:16 PM   #15
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A couple more pics...
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