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Unread 09-21-2022, 06:02 AM   #1
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Looking for a new tile saw

I'm looking for a new tile saw that will last, won't break the bank, and won't wander.

I have 2 saws. One is a small MK-145 MK Diamond saw. It lasted 8 months and I maybe cut 50 pieces of 3x6 tile and the motor quit. The motor is about the same cost as a new saw, and tech support even though they said they would replace it has gone silent in the last month. So, not a good manufacturer IMO.

The 2nd saw is a Ridgid 7 in saw, but it wanders about 1/4" per 2 ft. So, you have to make adjustments as you cut to cut straight. Instead of just running it along the guide (which seems to be straight - so the saw itself is wandering). I haven't figured out how to fix the wandering. It makes for a longer time to cut tile.

So, I was asking for advice for those that like and have had success with their tile saw and which model is it.


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Unread 09-21-2022, 06:58 AM   #2
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Sutton, is this for some DIY jobs, part-time work, or are you a full-time tile setter?

There are a lot of options out there, and in most cases you get what you pay for. If a saw is only used part-time, it can last you for the rest of your natural life with some basic maintenance.

But if you're out there every day, you'll want to invest in something good that doesn't give you a lot of problems. In short, equipment problems are money out of your pocket.

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Unread 09-21-2022, 03:38 PM   #3
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There are a LOT of good saws out there. DeWalt is one of many and highly regarded in the industry, Target and Felker are also respected names in the industry. I think Husquervana took over the Felker franchise. For bridge saws, Imer comes to mind for large format tiles. A bit pricy, but quality.

Kobalt, Rigid and a few others are players....but with mixed reviews.

Cheap and good? After I sold my Felker, I actually went with Harbor Freight's Diamondback in a 7" format. I added a rubber mat to the table and use a Pearl P4 blade and haven't looked back Quite accurate with the 36" porcelain "wood look" tiles, it rocks. Reasonably light. You might want to look at it......

Were is a good review...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8R6eQmdKyk

After several jobs...here is an update on this saw..

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Last edited by Lazarus; 09-21-2022 at 03:59 PM.
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Unread 09-22-2022, 07:39 AM   #4
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I'm just a DIY. Just want a reliable saw, and the 2 I have aren't very.
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Unread 09-22-2022, 08:02 AM   #5
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On the "inexpensive" end it's probably hit or miss, Sutton. As a DIY'er I've been muddling through with a MK370 for years. Never fails to cut arrow straight @ 90* but also never fails to cut a wandering bevel.

Borrowed a friends' Chicago-Electric 7" bridge saw to rip some 24" tiles that would be tricky on the MK but it was utter rubbish.
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Unread 09-23-2022, 10:17 AM   #6
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Taking your posts into account, the best solution is to make that Rigid 7” saw cut straight…or at least much straighter.

I don’t know precisely which saw you have, but assuming it’s a sliding tray style:

The three biggest reasons that the blade wanders are:
1) The blade is duller on one side (of the leading business edge) compared to the the other,
2) The sliding bar that the tray rides along is not parallel to the blade, or
3) The tray is not square to the bar/blade.

Especially if your cut through the tile has something of an arc to it, I would start with the blade. Your blade being duller on one side compared to the other can be a relatively common problem. We could get into a whole discussion about this, but the best thing to do is to sharpen your blade. You can purchase a dressing brick specifically for this purpose, but you can do the job with a paving block that costs just a couple dollars. Turn the saw’s water pump down somewhat so that cutting trough this paving block yields a muddy goo that accumulates on top of the tile a little bit instead of washing all the debris away. The waste “mud” contains an abundance of abrasive material that will accelerate the wearing down of the blade’s relatively softer matrix…meaning that it will expose more of the extremely hard diamond particles…thereby sharpening your blade. This alone may be enough to get you cutting straight, but I kind of doubt it. Less expensive saws are not necessarily aligned to a high degree of precision at the factory.

So the next thing to do is to concentrate on the saw’s alignments: Start by using a large combination square on the sliding tray to check that the the sliding bar, the sawblade’s face, and the tray’s fence are all square/parallel to each other. This is fussy work where small adjustments yield changes to the squareness of the cut. Once everything appears visually square/parallel to each other, make test cuts. If it’s close, make further adjustments in very, very small amounts and make notes on which direction the adjustment had on the cut direction. You will likely have to make a bunch of test cuts to slowly get it closer and closer to your ideally perfectly straight cut. There may be defects such as sloppy roller assemblies that limit the precision you can yield. Also, there may be a lack of things you can adjust. So, do what you can with what you’ve got.

Going through these efforts is very likely to improve the straightness of your cuts. This can be frustrating work, so don’t assume it’s a 20 minute job. If you post pictures of your saw, we can probability add more specific advice to the general things I’ve said.

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Unread 09-24-2022, 09:43 AM   #7
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I agree with Kurt. Buy a new blade. I like this Pearl P4.

Then use a cutting technique that can help your tile saw cut straight. This will probably fix the issues that you are having.

It could be a worn blade or unevenly worn blade. Both of those things will cause it to wander in the cut. I suppose it could be bearings too.
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