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Old 06-14-2019, 05:43 PM   #1
DavidKas
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Noble Shower With 3 Piece Drain

I've done my best to educate myself, gleaning knowledge from these friendly and informative pages. Thank you all.

I've come around, let's say evolved, to embracing the membrane waterproofing method, specifically the Noble products. I already had a 3 piece Oatey plumbed and level, 3/4" off the 3/4" plywood base, and I was all set to go "old school" and fine with it too. But then I read a thread that tuned me into Nobleflex drain flashing and that fast, I made a leap into the 21st century.

I get really good at stuff if I can do it 5 times, but this shower, I only want to do once. So, I'm going to have questions along the way.

It's a rectangular shower, 2nd floor, it's against two walls, there is a window - I'll think about that later - the plumbing is on the indoor wall so that's good. The other two walls will be glass mostly because I don't want to lose the light.

That brings me to the right angle curb completing the rectangle and soon, I promise, my first question.

Im going with the 2x4s because I can't let go of old-school completely. Plus, money. The idea, as I understand it, is to "wrap' the 2x4s - appropriately sloped of course, with drywall, which then will be covered with, in this case, Noble ValueSeal membrane.

What adhesive do you use to attach the drywall to the wood? Or do you use regular old drywall screws? I know not to screw into the curb once the membrane is on, but it shouldn't be a problem prior to that, right?
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Old 06-14-2019, 06:25 PM   #2
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David, I am not very familiar with the Noble products. However, you might want to double-check whether gypsum drywall is a manufacturer-approved substrate for this membrane. I have a feeling it is not but I could be wrong.
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Old 06-14-2019, 07:56 PM   #3
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From what I'm aware of, only two companies have done the required testing to validate their sheet membrane installation over drywall: Schluter with Kerdi and Laticrete with Hydroban sheet (not the liquid version). Any other install (at least) shouldn't pass an inspection, although it might work, since it won't have the required certifications.

If I'm mistaken, feel free to point me towards their plumbing certification.
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Old 06-14-2019, 11:04 PM   #4
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Welcome to the forum, David.

Quote:
Originally Posted by David
What adhesive do you use to attach the drywall to the wood? Or do you use regular old drywall screws? I know not to screw into the curb once the membrane is on, but it shouldn't be a problem prior to that, right?
No adhesive required.

And unfortunately, sheetrock isn't an approved substrate for the Noble products. So you'll need to use a cement board product for that application. I'd recommend Durock, Permabase, or Wonderboard. They're all good ones.

Use deck screws to secure the cement board to the curb. (Incidentally, nothing at all wrong with using 2x4's to make the curb over a wood subfloor.)

Occasionally I'll see cement board attached to the curb with a single row of screws down the 4-5" width. That's not enough to secure the edges properly, so use two rows spaced about 3" apart. The pairs of screws should be about 8" apart.
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Old 06-16-2019, 09:09 AM   #5
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Can somebody change the thread title to something useful that future generations may be able to refer to rather than a person's first name?
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Old 06-16-2019, 11:54 AM   #6
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That would be entirely up to the thread owner, Jon.
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Old 06-17-2019, 07:10 PM   #7
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This is very helpful, thank you. Durock it is then. And deck screws. Would it be wise to use deckscrews even in the framing behind the Durock and membrane?
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Old 06-17-2019, 07:21 PM   #8
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It wasn't my intention to name the thread 'David'. I'm not sure how that happened. I also don't know how to change it.
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Old 06-17-2019, 08:32 PM   #9
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Tell us what you want it to be, and I'll change it.

But it is quite unique, you know.
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Old 06-17-2019, 08:34 PM   #10
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And to answer your question, I always use deck screws for framing. Framing nails work well, too.

Just don't use sheetrock screws for framing or for hanging Durock.
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Old 06-18-2019, 09:47 AM   #11
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Let's call it what it is: "Noble shower with 3 piece drain."

And thanks.

If I manage to properly install the membrane over Durock and the mortar preslope, and I will, easily or with difficulty, there is no way that moisture should penetrate that barrier is there?

Thinking about it though, it's really not a big deal to replace the screws in the original framing. Another layer of protection never hurts.
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Old 06-19-2019, 10:01 AM   #12
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Thank you for your help so far. Now figuring out the order of things ...

The plan is to

1 Screw down the curbs and attach Durock on the top and sides with deck screws or maybe those Rock-On cement screws

2. Build the preslope along with the Nobleflex drain flashing

3. Attach Durock to the walls leaving a very small gap at the bottom above the mortar bed.

I might have 2 and 3 in the wrong order. I'm thinking with the membrane it doesn't matter?
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Old 06-19-2019, 10:08 AM   #13
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David, one of the benefits of building a direct bonded waterproofing membrane shower is that you don't need to install the drain and sloped mortar bed until the wallboard is in place and even tiled except for the bottom row if desired. That way you don't need to worry about damaging the mud bed or drain while working above that level.

I would recommend you install your wallboard at least before you place your mud bed.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 06-19-2019, 10:31 AM   #14
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Thank you.
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Old 06-24-2019, 12:15 PM   #15
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I'm thinking of best methods to waterproof the double-hung vinyl window sitting there in my shower. My first thought is to adhere Durock cement board to the framing around the window with Kerdi-fix or something similar.

Next I a push a bead of Kerdi-fix in the gap all the way around where the backer board meets the window.

Third, using thinset, I'll affix the membrane to the backer board and kerdi-fix one edge to the vinyl window and overlap the walls on all fours sides.

Finally then, a bead of silicon where the tile meets the window.

One specific question, would foam backer board around the window be better than Durock cement board? I'm thinking it would be and I could get Durock foam board for that.

Another question, how does one create a tilt on the bottom horizontal row of tiles? Can I simply do that with thinset?

Otherwise, does this process make sense? Am I missing something?

Again, very grateful for the help and advice.
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