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Old 02-17-2018, 09:17 AM   #61
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Okay new question. And a stupid one at that. I need to order my tile. I'm tiling the walls with traditional subway. I plan to use skirt tiles at the bottom. Do you tile all the way to the floor with the subway and install the skirt tile over the subway or do you install the skirt tile directly to the backerboard and tile up from there? I'm thinking the first way is correct but then I start second guessing myself.
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Old 02-17-2018, 12:10 PM   #62
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Lynn, you're gonna need to tell some of us what you mean by "skirt tile." Perhaps a sanitary base type of tile?
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Old 02-17-2018, 12:27 PM   #63
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https://www.thebuilderdepot.com/bridgewwglossbase.html

Well, shoot. Now that I look at it it's pretty clear it's meant to be installed as the bottom row of tile. There's no glazing on the top edge of the tile.
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Old 02-17-2018, 12:34 PM   #64
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Lynn, I just noticed the picture in your link shows no glaze on the top edge of the skirt tiles so I would install them first making sure you get them level and straight. Then start the subway tiles on top of them. I would want to make sure the subway tiles are the same thickness so they are flush with the skirting tiles.
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Old 02-17-2018, 12:41 PM   #65
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LOL! I saw that too...after I posted initially. Fortunately they are from the same manufacturer and I purchased samples so I was able to check the thickness.
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Old 04-21-2019, 08:35 PM   #66
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New question. I have an alcove shower so I have outside corners where shower tile will meet wall tile on the bottom half (subway tile wainscoting) but drywall on the top half. Iím bringing the tile beyond the shower door to the corner for aesthetic reasons and because the door is frameless so there might be a slight moisture issue. The shower tile has no bullnose available. I know I could use Rondec on the bottom or subway bullnose overlapping the edge of the shower tile but how about the tile to drywall corner on the top half? It looks like Rondec is designed for tile to tile applications and a regular drywall bead will leave the unfinished square edge of the shower tile exposed. It seems silly but this issue needs resolved before I can move forward with any tiling.
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Old 04-21-2019, 09:30 PM   #67
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Got pics?
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Old 04-22-2019, 04:39 AM   #68
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I'm sorry, I don't. I'm not even tiling yet but apparently the answer to this question impacts everything down to the subfloor according to my contractor (my brother who was just supposed to help me carry the heavy stuff and has now taken over because that's what he does) and if I don't figure it out all work must stop immediately.

I'll see if I can draw a mock-up for you guys. Thanks!
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Old 04-22-2019, 06:31 PM   #69
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If I understand you correctly, I would go ahead and run the tiles around the corner a couple inches even on the top half.
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Old 05-13-2019, 07:37 AM   #70
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New question. I'm getting some help with the big stuff from a close relative. It's free labor but comes with family dynamics. He needed to remove my previously installed subfloor. I don't know why but apparently it was crucial. When he re-installed it he did not orient it properly and also got pissed when I told him we needed to glue it down). So on half the bathroom the ply is parallel to the joists. The thing is the area is really small and only spans 2 joist bays. The joists are doubled 2x8's (glued and screwed) spanning 5 feet, one bay is 16"OC the other is 18" OC (may be 20" I can't remember at the moment)and that bay has blocking every 12" plus one of the joists is totally supported by a foundation wall. Half of this area will be a closet and the other half will be the shower pan (cultured marble one piece) that actually rests entirely on the joists/blocking. I know the reasoning for perpendicular orientation is the strength access of the ply but given the extremely small unsupported areas do you think I'm asking for trouble with deflection between the joists? Unfortunately he already completed the framing over this are which was complicated due to the idiosyncrasies of the house's architecture and also his feeling that if one piece of lumber will do 3 is better. Fortunately he correctly oriented the ply in the area where the tile will be installed. I'm expecting push-back from the inspector but hopeful that since the area is small it will pass still I'm trying to arm myself with information. FTR, the remainder of the work is stellar. Plumb, in plane, square and areas of concern due to the age of the house have been addressed. I have no idea why this was the particular hill he chose to die on but I'm going to be uber pissed if I have to tear everything out due to a failed inspection.
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Old 05-14-2019, 04:15 PM   #71
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If the sub floor did actually get glued down, Lynne, it's a moot point - it isn't coming up without a battle of quite epic proportions.

I'd also be somewhat shocked if your inspector caught that orientation detail.
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Old 05-14-2019, 04:30 PM   #72
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I would be shockeder than Dan, but it's possible.

This was nominal 3/4" plywood that's incorrectly oriented?

You are still planning a natural stone tile?

You are still planning to install a second layer of nominal 1/2" plywood over the incorrect subflooring?
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Old 06-09-2019, 02:48 PM   #73
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The area that is incorrect is not getting tiled. It is under a solid shower pan and in a closet. No second layer. The area that is being tiled is oriented correctly and has an additional layer of 1/2Ē ply. Neither of the areas are large, 17 sq ft and thatís being generous.

Thanks for the reassurance.
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Old 06-09-2019, 03:15 PM   #74
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I FUBARíd!!!!

By now Iím thinking gasoline and a match would be more productive. I really did it this time. I was drilling holes in the subfloor for the shower supply with a 1 3/8Ē spade bit (to accommodate PEX isolators) and drilled vertically down the edge of a joist creating a large gouge. Donít ask me, I donít know. Iím trying to get this done and currently have a raging fever and possibly the flu. I didnít get all the way to the bottom but I took a good deal of material out and went halfway down and itís smack damn in the middle of the span. Iím guessing the joist is toast. The saving grace may be that it happens to be a double joist that spans only 5í 5Ē and the second joist is intact. The double joist was just overkill on my part. It is under a partition wall that is not load bearing. Due to blocking I canít sister in another joist the full length and am not sure itís even necessary. Can I scab it? How?
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Old 06-09-2019, 04:48 PM   #75
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Iíd say your original design had built in redundancy and now you are taking advantage of it!!

Just shake you head and move on. At least you have room to run the pex now!
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