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Unread 04-21-2019, 08:26 PM   #16
GHR
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Question Tools for cutting kerdi board

I've searched here on this forum and generally in google.
Why is there so little information on what tools to use for cutting kerdi board?!

Even the Kerdiboard handbook is mum on details other than saying to use a razor;
multiple passes for "thicker board" is mentioned in the video and that is all.

I used a "very sharp" razor which predictably was too short to go through 2" kerdiboard.
Making multiple passes was just tearing up the board though messing up my clean
straight initial cut (actually my steady handed neighbor).

So I tried a hand pvc saw to cut the rest of the way though, but it resulted in a cut that
is choppy and not square. Probably also from my attempts to make multiple passes
with the blade too.

There must be some better advice for making cuts straight and square on kerdi board.
Straight is actually easy it's square cuts that concern me.

I'm guessing power tools are best; a jigsaw, band saw or circular saw?
But there seems to be no information on which tool and then what blade to use.

Logically this is foam so I would expect a fine blade for plastics might work?
Using a variable speed orbital action jigsaw do I go fast or slow?
How heat sensitive is this foam? I see the video shows a circular or band saw,
but it's again not detailed to derive much information from.

I am genuinely perplexed with the lack of information anywhere.
is Kerdiboard that much of a bust that nobody uses it enough for even one YT video to
be made by a contractor? Other than Schluter nobody seems to know about Kerdiboard.

It also seems like it's a rare product. I had to go 15 miles away to get a 2x24.5x96 sheet
when the closer store was out of stock and showed "discontinued" at that store.
Is Kerdiboard dying as a product line?
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Unread 04-21-2019, 08:45 PM   #17
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Go to the kitchen, Henry, get your bread knife, cut your Kerdiboard. Do not tell your mom.

Table saw works well on the foam boards. Just the regular wood trim blade that is the usual resident on my saw does just fine. Never tried a band saw, but suspect it would do well, too.
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Unread 04-21-2019, 09:11 PM   #18
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LOL We don't actually have a bread knife in this here house. At least if we do I have not seen it for ages.
Mom would never notice anyway. She never noticed my using butter knives as screw drivers when I was 10-12 either though
But I get your drift. So that pvc hand saw was correct enough too.
And that also means a fine blade on a jigsaw is good too.

So speed is next question. My jigsaw is an orbital action type with settings for straight, scroll, curves etc.
I'll set it for straight line. How fast is best to set for and speed of cut?
The trigger is nice and sensitive and easy to control.
And how many TPI should I shoot for?

I'm hoping that straightening this cut on the kerdiboard will yield a better mate with the wall.
Then I can tackle the bow.
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Unread 04-22-2019, 06:21 PM   #19
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Henry, try any blade you have handy. Practice on a scrap piece if you can.
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Unread 04-22-2019, 06:26 PM   #20
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Question

Straightening the cut on both edges works wonders to make a cleaner connection to the wall. For future reference I used a 10tpi jigsaw blade rated for PVC and speeded along the cut. This is a long blade too. Clean as cutting with a hot knife in butter.

At the commode end there is still about a 5/16" gap.
It's only at that end with the kerdiboard set into the corner square.
As previously noted there is a stud behind this wall that I added while building the shower. Doing the measurements that stud is directly
behind the bowed part of the wall.

So what do I do now? I surely cannot fix that stud given it's location.
Unless I want to tear open the sheetrock and plane (?) the studs down,
what do I do to fill the 5/16"? There will only two rows of 6x6 tile as a backsplash. Planing the studs would seem to be overkill for such a narrow area.

Can I cut a sliver of kerdi board and glue it to the board in that spot to make
up the gap? Kerdi band will over the wall/kerdiboard transition so in order not to have gobs of thinset merely squishing out into the vanity something has to fill this spot.
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Unread 04-22-2019, 06:27 PM   #21
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how about a coping saw, you got one of those?
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Unread 04-22-2019, 06:29 PM   #22
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A coping saw for ??

Are you suggesting I scribe the kerdi board to the wall?

Yes I do have one but I'm not steady enough handed with a coping saw to
chance messing up the kerdi board royally.

I'm not sure if my steady handed artist friend could cut 59 inches and get those cuts right.

But that might be something I need to do.
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Last edited by GHR; 04-22-2019 at 06:53 PM.
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Unread 04-22-2019, 09:20 PM   #23
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Apparently I was responding to a previous problem that you already have sorted out. you were typing while I was. A picture of your current problem would help
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Unread 04-22-2019, 11:59 PM   #24
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Quote:
smifwal Apparently I was responding to a previous problem that you already have sorted out. you were typing while I was. A picture of your current problem would help
Yeah, we were posting in overlap.
Here are photos I just took. The end by the wall is fairly close to the wall.
It's good in the corner and mostly along the length but that 5/16" gap is the problem.
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Unread 04-23-2019, 05:04 AM   #25
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I think some foam backer rod would be the easiest solution
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Unread 04-23-2019, 06:28 AM   #26
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That would be the solution except local homedepot and lowes do not stock
<3/8" Homedepot stocks 5/8" and 3/8"; Lowes stocks 1" and up.
The most I need is 1/4"

If I'm going to use foam I guess I'm just going to use a remnant of the kerdiboard I just cut. Seems fastest way
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Unread 04-23-2019, 07:08 AM   #27
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I thought about that but you said you didn't have a steady hand... my painter say a beer or two really helps with that 😁 using the kerdi band would really be the fastest way and that would cause only slight deviation in plane. I just don't like bumps. Now if you were feeling real froggy then you could grind the back of the tile down a hair in that small section and you would be golden.
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Unread 04-23-2019, 08:53 AM   #28
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I have enough remants of kerdiboard from the cuts to make a filler piece from it.

My hand is not steady enough to make a sliver cut with a coping saw especially with the margin
for error being low. A major mistake would potentially ruin the whole sheet of kerdi board
and that is a $100 item I don't want to ruin.
If I'm working on a piece of essential scrap though with a jigsaw it would probably be OK.

In a pinch I think I have some foam pipe wrap. I could cut some of that into strips with a razor
and I think I might just try that if it's big enough. It's the same stuff really and this is not a
terribly critical application; just a gap filler.

I am going to use kerdi band on the wall/countertop transition. With the gap as large a it currently
is the thinset being mixed loose as it needs to be for kerdi band will merely flow down the wall
into the space. This is why I need to fill it in lieu of actually correcting the wall.

I was just doing to checking and found something else. Cabinet is not square and more than the wall.
I put the kerdiboard over it and I have 1.25" of over hang at one end (inside corner) 1" over hang
outide corner. When I set the kerdi board so it's 1.25" across the whole length I get a larger gap in back.

Tricky work this is.
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Unread 04-24-2019, 04:07 PM   #29
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Question

I had a plumber here to replace the angle stops, but he did not have the parts with him for pex to move the valves. We had limited time for the
water to be off so that will be for another day.
I have work for him in my kitchen too.

I fully removed the vanity to cut a better hole for the valves.
Since there are pipes behind it limits penetrative cuts against the wall.
The foot print of the vanity on the floor is most definitely not rectangular. The second stud from the corner is proud of the others causing the bow.
The vanity is also slightly warped at the back since it was screwed to the bowed wall until today. The original builders knocked out a center
support when they installed the sink too.

I'm wondering now if I should just fix this bow from the top of the vanity
or right above it down? I could remove the sheetrock and try to fix the studs then use kerdiboard to replace it. It's mostly going to be unseen behind the vanity. I don't even need to finish it. On closer inspection behind the wall. I don't think I can correct the bow after all. The blocking of the shower is backed right to the back of the studs. I won't be able to move it without dislodging the shower wall too.

In lieu of correcting the wall I'd probably do need to scribe the kerdi board.
I tried that but the pencil mark is not dark enough. The fleece makes the mark wide and smears.
Is there such a thing as a scribe tool that uses something like a fine point sharpie or something that will take on kerdi fleece?
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Unread 04-24-2019, 06:17 PM   #30
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My first choice would be to use a Sharpie Hank.
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