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Unread 11-21-2005, 11:22 PM   #1
vanwassup
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Master Bath Overhaul

I am remodeling my master bath and doing a complete overhaul down to the studs. I am currently working out the details to the shower tile installation. I have a couple of niches I just ordered (prefab) for shampoo/soap and I wondered if I needed to do similar for the shower bench. Here is the scenario: I have already ordered and received a Kohler 36x36 acrylic shower pan. The soaking tub will sit adjacent to the shower and I plan to extend the tub deck into the shower as a shower bench. I know I need to use cement backer board and I'm sure I need to do some sort of waterproofing...what exactly I am unsure of. Also, if I need to waterproof the bench, do I also need to slope it and at what rate per inch or foot? Thanks! I am about to embark on a HUGE project. Budget is still on track, though, so my husband thinks all is well - who cares if I know what I'm doing

Thanks again,
Vanessa in Michigan
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Unread 11-22-2005, 12:01 AM   #2
doitright
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Hi Vanessa, Welcome!

We slope our benches at 1/4" per foot. I also like to tilt them away from the glass side panel.

Waterproofing can be done with Schluter Kerdi or a trowelable membrane such as Custom's Redguard (or Laticrete, or Bostik, or ...).

You came here for advice, so you obviously know what you're doing!
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Unread 11-22-2005, 12:10 AM   #3
vanwassup
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Another ?

Thanks, John. I am using 12x12 silestone tiles (color to match countertop). I'm rethinking the size of the tiles if I am to slope the side glass panel too. Do you think I could by-pass that slope if I'm using a non-porous material for the bench surface? I am using 3x6 subway chairo travertine on the lower wall with a listello and then an irregular diamond pattern above. Those ARE porous, but I will treat them.

Anyway, thanks for the advice. Also, should I wait until all work is completed before having the measurements taken for the shower glass? We're planning on doing a 1/2" thick frameless glass enclosure that really looks cool, so I need everything to be framed in tight to support the weight of it....I can't imagine how much it will weigh.

Vanessa
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Unread 11-22-2005, 12:29 AM   #4
Rob The Glass Man
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vanwassup
Thanks, John. I am using 12x12 silestone tiles (color to match countertop). I'm rethinking the size of the tiles if I am to slope the side glass panel too. Do you think I could by-pass that slope if I'm using a non-porous material for the bench surface?

Anyway, thanks for the advice. Also, should I wait until all work is completed before having the measurements taken for the shower glass? We're planning on doing a 1/2" thick frameless glass enclosure that really looks cool, so I need everything to be framed in tight to support the weight of it....I can't imagine how much it will weigh.

Vanessa
What do you mean by "I'm rethinking the size of the tiles if I am to slope the side glass panel too." ??

Under NO circumstances should the bench not be sloped, PERIOD! It will fail if the water can't run off.

As for the glass you are wasting your money by using 1/2", 3/8" is what you want. I use 1/2" only on rare occations and it's usually on the homes where people speak millions.

No glass contractor will take measurements to order glass before the tile is installed. I'm sure they would be happy to come out and give you a bid before hand though.

And for the weight of the glass:
3/8" Glass = 5.05 lbs/sf
1/2" Glass = 6.40 lbs/sf
Most of the doors I install are around 100 lbs for the door only.

Good luck!

Rob
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Unread 11-22-2005, 05:41 AM   #5
doitright
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Hi Rob

I believe Vanessa was not sure about doing a double pitch. One back to front, and the other glass panel to wall.

The glass panel to wall pitch is not required but does assist to prevent excessive water travel from glass, and bench to curb. This is where a lot of water accumulates, and tends to seep out (either due to inadequate pitch of curb, caulk failure, or improper seal at door).

Hi Vanessa

There is no reason to change from the Silestone tiles. The bench top can still be pitched in both directions during framing.
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Unread 11-22-2005, 10:37 AM   #6
vanwassup
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Thanks for clearing that up

I was trying to figure out how to double pitch that bench, but a lightbulb went off - duh! during framing!

Another question - do i need to use a waterproof membrane over all of the cement board underlayment in the shower before tiling, or only for the bench? I don't want leaks, but I also don't want to go overboard and if I don't need it - I won't do it.

Vanessa

Last edited by vanwassup; 11-22-2005 at 10:37 AM. Reason: forgot my name on the post
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Unread 11-22-2005, 07:08 PM   #7
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Hi Vanessa,

The area of the bench is critical because you have a horizontal surface and all sorts of joints where it hits the walls. Water won't roll off it like it does the walls. Waterproof the whole bench and the adjacent wall areas for about a foot.

Waterproofing the whole shower is a neat thing to do. A little more time and expense, but I think it's worth it.
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Unread 11-26-2005, 10:48 PM   #8
vanwassup
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Cool Making my own bullnose

Will the Felker PW38 6in Diamond Tile Saw Blade work on a Plasplugs Mastertiler 7" wet/dry saw? I need to do my own bullnose edges and I already own the Mastertiler wet/dry saw.

Vanessa

Also, is there a way to automatically add signatures? I keep forgetting to add my name at the end of my msgs because I am so used to signatures.
Moderator: Please change title of thread to "Master Bath Overhaul"

Last edited by vanwassup; 11-26-2005 at 10:55 PM. Reason: Adding name
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Unread 11-26-2005, 11:00 PM   #9
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Go to the User CP button at the left end of the dark blue strip near the top of the page, Vanessa. Find, Edit Signature. You'll figger out the rest.
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Unread 11-26-2005, 11:05 PM   #10
vanwassup
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Talking Aha!

I knew it was possible and I was blinded by the options....I used to work tech support and we called that PEBKAC....pronounced 'pebcack'. It is an acronym for Problem Exists Between Keyboard And Chair :-D That would be my chair, not yours LOL.
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Unread 11-26-2005, 11:19 PM   #11
Tool Guy - Kg
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Hi Vanessa,
This Felker PW38 6in Diamond Profiling Blade:

Is meant to be used on a saw with an overhead mounted blade, specifically one with a height adjustment so that you can bring the blade down to meet the tile at exactly the right height. Not that it wouldn't work upside down, but you don't have any adjustment on that saw of yours, so the cutting edge will be too high. Plus the thick profiling blade won't fit the narrow slot in your saw top. And....the motor isn't really powerful enough to do this job for too long before you push it too hard.

You could pre-cut the tiles that need bullnosing and take them to get profiled. A lot of tile suppliers are now offering bullnosing services for $5 to $10 a foot. Might be the best option if you aren't planning on doing this again.
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Unread 11-26-2005, 11:32 PM   #12
vanwassup
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Wink Bummer

That is a real bummer. So, if I were to buy the Felker that you can do this with, I would also have to buy the blade for $100. You are right, it might be cheaper to get the pieces cut. I've got about 30 linear feet of tiles to be bullnosed. I'll have to give this some thought. I'm using tumbled marble so maybe I'll keep looking for a company that offers bullnosed tiles in the chiaro color pattern. I have a hard time getting out of the house right now - toddler healing from surgery - so it would be hard for me to get all those tiles into the car, out of the car, into a tile store....my problem, not yours
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Unread 11-27-2005, 12:38 AM   #13
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An idea for your matte finished tumbled marble
Test this out ahead of time, but with that marble, this may work for you: Cut your tiles to final size, then come back and lightly bevel the edge at a 45 degree angle with your wetsaw blade (you know, tilt the wetsaw's platform up on a 45). And then switch to a random orbital sander with some 80/120/150/220-grit sandpaper to shape the 45 bevel into a nice round bullnose. Or.....you might want to put a 45 bevel on the edge and be done with it....though you may still want to smooth-out the blade scratches with the sanding method. Try it out, it may work weel enough for you at practically no extra $$.

And I sure hope your little one recovers in a hurry.
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Unread 11-27-2005, 12:44 AM   #14
vanwassup
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Will give it a try

Thanks, Kurt. I'm going to give the budget another look and see if I can pinch out the money for the Felker and bullnose blade. Our budget is $12,500, which seems high but it is just about maxed out with cabinets, faucets, tub, sinks, etc, etc. I've already spent $1300 on tile, so I don't want to cut any corners and have it come out looking quirky. I want a professional looking job. Do these tile saws sell quickly after you don't need them on ebay? LOL
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Unread 11-27-2005, 12:50 AM   #15
Tool Guy - Kg
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Which Felker were you considering? The TM-75 is outfitted with an 8" blade and doesn't have an adjustable head to it. A profiling blade doesn't work on it either.
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