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Unread 07-31-2010, 01:25 PM   #1
Doug_H
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Small Bath Advice

The tub flange at the bottom and corners where the durrock meets flares the tile out slightly. The back wall was shimmed a quarter inch, so the junction between the tile and the tub are ok. I was hoping I could get away with keeping the side walls flush so I could use surface bullnose and have more choice of tile.

The shower valve is set to be flush with the finished tile now so, if I shim the walls out a half inch does the plumbing need to be redone?

How do you recommend I handle this problem?

Thanks for your help,

Doug
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Unread 07-31-2010, 02:02 PM   #2
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Doug,

Quick questions

1- how thick are the tiles?

1B- what size tiles?

2- how much does the tile deflect from the wall?

I am trying to see if you can grind down the backside of the tiles on the bottom row to make up the difference.
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Unread 07-31-2010, 03:07 PM   #3
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the plasterguard on most valves is designed not only to give the proper size hole, but also to help gauge finished wall thickness and make sure you fall within a specified range. Read the directions that came with the valve (or look for imprinted writing on the plastic plasterguard) that indicates the range where the finished wall must fall. So add in the thinset and tile thickness and check against the plasterguard to see if you can shim out any farther.
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Unread 07-31-2010, 05:51 PM   #4
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Paul, thanks for the response. The biggest problem is the corners.

To answer your questions:
1. 1/4 inch
1B. 3x6 subway tiles

2. Hope attached photos help explain

Kyle, the plasterguard doesn't indicate a tolerance, and the instructions say keep flush with finish surface.
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Unread 07-31-2010, 05:58 PM   #5
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I think you should be ok, there is usually a little wiggle room even though the manufacturer says to keep it flush. I would put the escuteon and handle on with a few layers of cardboard behind the escuteon plate and test it to be sure.
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Unread 07-31-2010, 06:01 PM   #6
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Doug,

First the good news; You shouldn't have a problem with the valve. Its sticks out just fine once you add the thinset.

The CBU / tub/ crooked walls - you got a heap o' problems there. My reccomendation; add 1/4" to that entire end wall, for that side of the bathroom. They make 1/4" drywall and 1/4" cbu. You'll have a nice flat wall with the least amount of effort. Hopefully.
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Unread 07-31-2010, 06:14 PM   #7
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Paul, good idea. The corners are not square so I might end up doing that to both sides.

I was wondering if I could put 1/2 cbu on side walls to make it look like a fake mud job, but then I have valve issues.
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Unread 08-05-2010, 01:19 PM   #8
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Thanks for the help everyone. It looks like I'm going with Paul's advice to use 1/4 inch CBU and drywall, except I will have to do both side walls including the valve wall. I found the specs for the valve online and it states that the face of the plaster guard can be receded back from the finish surface by 3/8 inch max. Presently, the valve plaster guard projects 3/8 inch from the cement board. I have the following questions:

1. Do I need to thinset the 1/4 cbu to the current Durock and screw into studs?

2. Will this work with the valve, or does it have to be moved out?

3. Would it be best to just start over?
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