DIY Complete Bathroom Remodel

[Hornett0712]

Hello All,
I have been watching from the sidelines gathering all the info I can from this site while planning and start the project. I have finally joined and would like to get some help along the way.
First Question: For my drop in tub. How should I make the deck?
(i.e. drywall, then redgaurd, then tile? or cement board, redgaurd, tile)
Thoughts?

Below are the pics of the before bathroom. Enjoy the carpet and pink tile

[tilejoe]

I cover the framing with 3/4 plywood, then use a tile approved substrate, cement board, hardi backer ditra to list a few.

[Edthedawg]

Welcome, Joe

the actual deck for the tub - the flat area w/ the hole for the drop-in - would need to be far more robust than just drywall & RedGard. In fact Redgard is pretty much incapable of waterproofing drywall. So yeah - 3/4" ply, then a substrate like Hardie-Backer, and then RedGard and tile - that'd do ya!

the walls around the area, you gotta evaluate the splash factor. but me? i'd want my waterproofing tied in and running at least the first foot or two around the tub alcove there...

good luck on your project - keep all your q's right here in this thread

[Houston Remodeler]

Add another vote for running the waterproofing up the walls and out onto the floor a good foot and tying that into the ditra floor layer.

[Hornett0712]

Alright:
Hardie Backer board all around followed by Redguard.

Questions:
1) I can tile right over the redgaurd, right?

2)Setting my tub, I thought I should use mortar mix (quikrete) but the bigbox expert said to buy self leveler. Which one?

3) A portion of my subfloor is not level with the rest. I was planning on using the laticrete self lever. Can I then mortar and ditra right over this with the modified thinset?


I did read some threads and took back my cheapo non-modified (laticrete floor adhesive) and purchased genuine Megabond.
Thanks

[bbcamp]

1) Right!

2) Self leveler will flow every which way, but it won't support your tub. Use Sand topping mix or any kind of masonry mortar or concrete mixes. (of all the powdery cement stuff in bags, your big box expert had to pick the only one that won't work. )

3) Schluter might want an un-modified thinset over SLC, but most of us think a lightly modified thinset like Versabond will be fine. Make sure you follow the SLC instructions carefully, especially concerning priming. The bond between the SLC and the plywood will be your weakest link.

[Hornett0712]

Alright. Hardibacker is going up around the tub now. It will be followed by the redgard.

Now, my floor is level except for one section. Looking at the diagram below: The arrow shows the direction of the pitch. Everything else is level. At what point do I use a self leveler or do I just ditra and tile since it is only one section and lay the tile to compensate.
(The pitch is about 5/16 over a two foot span) I hope to get some pics up this weekend to better demonstrate and give an idea of the demo and rebuild process.

[Hornett0712]

One more question: Do I have to use plywood underneath my 1/2 hardi around the top of my tub deck? Another diagram below: The grey area are the 2x4s running length and 2x10 at each end, all supported appropriately. I would think It will be fine without.

[Hornett0712]

Help

[Houston Remodeler]

yes you need plywood under the cbu.

[Hornett0712]

Not to be argumentative. Why? Won't the CBU hold the suppoting weight, or am I missing something?

[Houston Remodeler]

I am a belt and suspenders kinds guy. While the cbu can span the gap, I would worry about something hitting the tile and cracking the tile because the cbu has no strength to stop the fracture. If you don't have height for the plywood, fill in the space between the studs with more wood.

[Hornett0712]

As the Guiness men would say, "Brilliant"

Thanks.

Any words of wisdom on the floor?

[Houston Remodeler]

Well I wouldn't say "Brilliant" but thanks for the kind words,

::: tossling hair :::
::: dragging big toe in the carpet :::

[Houston Remodeler]

The cheapest way to level out the floor is a layer or two of thinset. Medium bed thinset. Regular thinset has a suggested working maximum of 1/4" so if you are exceeding that go with medium bed. Screed it out as best you can, let that set for 4 hours or more, then top with ditra as planned. You can compensate for that drop off when filling the holes in the ditra too. The same is true for setting the tiles. Every time you add a layer you focus on flattening out the floor, eventually you will make it pool table flat.

Have you considered using LASH to help keep the tiles fron getting lippage?

http://www.homedepot.com/Flooring-Ti...atalogId=10053