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Old 12-22-2017, 11:16 AM   #1
Wahoo
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Wahoo's new master bath remodel

Embarking on my second master bath remodel (after the helpful folks on this site walked me through my first one 5 years ago). Single story 1970's home so this time I'm dealing with a slab. I'm down to the studs (see pics below) and have several questions to begin with:
As you can see I've removed the old mud pan, but I'm unsure what to do with the old drain? It almost looks like there's something attached to the pipe down below, but I want to know exactly what I'm doing before removing it incorrectly and/or creating a break in the pipe somewhere in the slab;
Also, the old shower had a false ceiling, which I tore out. 9' ceiling now. I'm planning to use Kerdi fabric (or maybe the board) again this time. How high do I need to take it? All the way to the ceiling? If not, and given I want to paint the ceiling, how do I treat that space? Currently it's just gypsum wallboard;
Finally, is the general consensus that I do my walls and ceiling prior to creating the new mud tray - so I don't damage the latter while doing walls/ceilings?
Thanks! Peter
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Old 12-22-2017, 12:46 PM   #2
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The first thing would be to start busting out concrete from around the drain. I'd say 14 inches in diameter is about right, maybe a little bigger. The cast iron drain will have to replaced.

Are you going to mud the shower floor or use the foam tray?

The Kerdi fabric can be installed directly to white sheetrock, at least to the shower head height.
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Old 12-22-2017, 01:09 PM   #3
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What do you recommend I do on the sheetrock above the shower head? Can I tile right over that? Seems I need some kind of barrier and same for the ceiling. So that's a cast iron drain, huh? Once I dig out a 14" hole around it do i cut it and if so, can I attach a Kerdi drain unit to it?
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Old 12-22-2017, 01:10 PM   #4
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And my plan was to make my own mud bed. Foam tray would certainly be easier but i fear I won't have the exact dimensions right to align my drain correctly. Could be faulty thinking on my part though.
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Old 12-22-2017, 05:22 PM   #5
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Above the shower head isn't necessary but it won't hurt anything to run the Kerdi up to the ceiling. I don't see a 9 ft ceiling ever getting wet so I'd stick the tiles to the sheetrock. If you feel safer, pull the sheetrock off the ceiling and screw CBU up there.

The drain riser pipe should be 2 inch. A sawsall will cut the old drain out. Sometimes we will go ahead and dig down and replace the P-trap while we are at it. A Kerdi drain can be connected but a rubber Fernco fitting like this might be needed. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-2...0-22/203310960

Making your own mud bed would be much cheaper and would probably work best. It's what we usually recommend and what most tile setters would do.
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Last edited by Davy; 12-22-2017 at 05:29 PM.
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Old 12-22-2017, 05:43 PM   #6
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Thanks Davy, makes sense. House is 40 years old so I might as well dig out the old p-trap just to make sure. Haven't done that before but I'm assuming I can figure it out. I think I will kerdi to the ceiling just to make sure and will probably replace the ceiling with CBU and then paint it to match the rest of the bathroom.
I did my own mud bed last time and didn't find it too hard. When you say my riser should be 2", is that from the top of my mud bed? And do you recommend doing the bed prior to the walls, or wait until later so I don't step all over my new bed?
thanks, peter
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Old 12-22-2017, 06:00 PM   #7
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If you plan to paint the ceiling, I'd leave it sheetrock.

The trap will also be 2 inch. Usually we replace it all with PVC. You can tell how deep the P-trap is by looking down the drain, the water will be standing in the bottom of the trap. You can do the mud work after doing the walls.
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Old 12-26-2017, 01:12 PM   #8
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Thanks. That Fenco link described that coupling as PVC to PVC. I assume they make one for cast iron to PVC as well? Any advice on the best tool for breaking out that slab? Would you not be concerned about the ceiling being sheetrock, given all the moisture that will be within the shower?
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Old 12-26-2017, 01:27 PM   #9
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If it isn't a steam shower then the painted drywall ceiling will be fine with a good quality paint.

Rent/buy an electric jack hammer for the concrete. Yes, there are CI to PVC couplers. Be sure you get one that is designed for being buried.
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Old 12-26-2017, 01:29 PM   #10
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On that Fernco link (Mission rubber is another options): the description says it is for plastic socket to plastic socket, which would mean it is for connecting two hubbed fittings without using a piece of pipe between. For pipe to pipe, it is a different Fernco series (1056 for unshielded). They also make pipe to socket.

Also, I tend to prefer shielded couplings over unshielded couplings. Although perhaps buried is one place that an unshielded coupling is allowed. I'm not up on the plumbing code details.

To answer your question, most of these rubber couplings use the same size opening for no-hub cast iron and for plastic. The outer diameters are close enough that you can make up the difference in how much you tighten the band clamps.

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 12-26-2017, 04:49 PM   #11
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thanks. any trick to confirming a good seal on the Fenco and the new p-trap? perhaps just pour a bucket of water down the shower drain prior to burying the new pipe work?
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Old 12-26-2017, 07:16 PM   #12
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Old 12-26-2017, 11:34 PM   #13
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Use a torque wrench set to 60 in-lbs. There are special purpose ones for this application, e.g.:

https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Tool.../dp/B007EXNAV2

Name brand no hub torque wrenches might be 3 times as much. If you have a torque wrench or torque screwdriver that you can set to 60 in-lbs, and a 5/16" hex head driver, that would work too.

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 01-13-2018, 08:53 AM   #14
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ok, back at this after some time off for xmas. renting a jackhammer today to dig out the old cast iron p-trap.
In the meantime I've been doing some research on what waterproofing system I want to use. First shower I ever did I used Kerdi over sheetrock and that was fine, but as a DIYer it took some time. Second shower was redguard over cbu and the cbu was a PITA in my opinion. I was excited to hear about the Durock system and want to try 1/2" 4x8 boards but I can't find them anywhere! USG website says Emser Tile in Austin. Went there and they acted like it was some obscure product that, yes, they could special order but otherwise they hadn't had it in a while. How great can this product be if they don't have it in distribution 3+ years after introducing it?
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Old 02-14-2018, 01:08 PM   #15
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I'm back after a couple of weeks of visitors and moving some electrical around. Question of the day: as the shower will be in a little alcove, I'll have an outside corner that will be tile on one side, meeting 90 degrees with painted drywall. What's the best way to treat that transition? I was scrolling through the 47,000 Schluter options and think maybe Jolly is the way to go, but wanted to confirm with the experts.
thanks
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