Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Unread 07-26-2005, 11:43 AM   #1
Kevro
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 30
Bathroom renovation/RedGard questions

Hello all,

I wish I had found this site sooner! I've learned a lot by reading the posts and the Liberry, and I'm looking forward to receiving my copy of John's book.

I'm remodeling the master bathroom in our 1961 split-level. It is very small (3'x5'), and has a very, very small tile shower (27"x28"). We bought the house last February, and the home inspectors gave the shower a clean bill of health, but problems have arisen since then. I recently found out that the previous owners never used that shower, but I've been using it for the past year and a half, which has has brought the hidden water problems to light.

So far, I've gutted the bathroom, removed the fixtures and shower (and found a FLAT lead liner with no pre-slope, water-damaged subfloor, and lots of mold), and have started putting things back together. I'm using a custom Bonsal preform shower pan (had I found this site a few months ago, I would have been convinced to try Kerdi), and Hardibacker for the walls, all of which will be tiled. I have the pan installed, and now I'm ready for the CBU.

My question is, if I install Hardibacker over my 6 mil poly vapor barrier, will the screws render the poly useless? Would a better solution be to forego the poly and paint the Hardibacker with RedGard instead? Should I seal the seam between the pan and Hardibacker with RedGard, silicone, or both?

Thanks for any suggestions. (pics to follow)

Kevin
Attached Images
  
Kevro is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Unread 07-26-2005, 11:49 AM   #2
Kevro
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 30
Here is the Bonsal pan

Dimensions are 29x30, pre-slope and drain built in.

Last pic shows it installed in its new home.
Attached Images
   
Kevro is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-26-2005, 11:55 AM   #3
bbcamp
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 30,274
The screw holes in the poly will cause you no harm. Go worry about something else! Like that wallpaper...

Seal the Hardi to the pan using Bonsal's B-6000 waterproof membrane.
bbcamp is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-26-2005, 12:00 PM   #4
Kevro
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 30
Shower valve installation

I'm using a Grohe integrated Grohmix valve. Dissassembly was a bit intimidating at first, but a few practice runs (and a trip to Sears for some deep-well sockets and retaining ring pliers) helped build up my confidence.

I used a laser level to sling a laser line around the shower in the plane of where the finished wall will be to determine how deep to mount the valve.

It took two tries to get it right, but my first copper plumbing job was a success!
Attached Images
   
Kevro is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-26-2005, 12:11 PM   #5
Eastrick
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Clifton Park, NY
Posts: 40
Kevin-

If you haven't attached the poly vapor barrier yet, you should score the kraft vapor barrier on your insulation to open it up first. Others on here advised me to do this since it is not a good idea to have two vapor barriers back-to-back.
__________________
Cliff
Eastrick is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-26-2005, 12:14 PM   #6
Kevro
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 30
bbcamp, thanks for the quick reply. If I understand it correctly, Hardibacker will let water through, since it's not waterproof. If the bottom is sealed, how does the water get out from behind the CBU? I'm a little confused. Should the poly run down the wall on the outside of the pan, or hang inside of it, so water runs back into the pan?

And don't worry, the wallpaper has left the building.
Kevro is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-26-2005, 01:04 PM   #7
bljack
Registered User
 
bljack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 328
Have the poly overlap the pan, and the kraft paper is not the stylish wallpaper, but the paper facing on the insulation
bljack is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-26-2005, 01:56 PM   #8
Kevro
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 30
Okay, so the poly should dump into the pan, and the seam between the pan and the poly and between the poly and Hardi should all be sealed with B-6000. Got it. And I'll re-enact a fictitious battle between Wolverine and Freddy Krueger on the kraft paper. Thanks!
Kevro is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-01-2005, 03:43 PM   #9
Kevro
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 30
Question Subfloor question

Here is my subfloor, which I want to cover with 12x12 ceramic tiles. Joists are 2x10s, 16" on center, max span of 12' - L/426 (actually, if the wall below the wall in the right of this picture counts as a support, the max span is more like 4' - L/3522). The T&G planks are 3/4" thick - can I just lay down some Hardibacker over the planks, or is plywood needed for stability? If plywood is needed, what size/type would I need, and how did you arrive at that number?

(Is this stuff covered in the book? Mine hasn't arrived yet...)
Attached Images
 
Kevro is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-04-2005, 04:18 PM   #10
Kevro
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 30
Anybody? Can I throw down some thinset and 1/2" Hardi over the planks, or do I need plywood first?

Thanks in advance, I really appreciate the knowledge I've gained here, as well as from the book!

Kevin
Kevro is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-04-2005, 04:49 PM   #11
jadnashua
Veteran DIYer- Schluterville Graduate

STAR Senior Contributor

 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 14,128
Dimensional lumber is not good for tile...you need ply on top of it. The minimum is 3/8" and 1/2 - 5/8" is better. Then you can either put down 1/4" cbu or a membrane such as Ditra, then tile. How thick are your planks?
__________________
Jim DeBruycker
Not a pro, multiple Schluter Workshops (Schluterville and 2013 and 2014 at Schluter Headquarters), Mapei Training 2014, Laticrete Workshop 2014, Custom Building Products Workshop 2015, and Longtime Forum Participant.
jadnashua is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-04-2005, 05:16 PM   #12
Kevro
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 30
Thanks Jim! The planks are 3/4" tongue and groove.

1. I'll need BC grade exterior plywood, right?
2. Should this be glued as well as screwed to the subfloor, or just screwed every 8 inches or so, avoiding joists?

Thanks,
Kevin
Kevro is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-04-2005, 05:50 PM   #13
jadnashua
Veteran DIYer- Schluterville Graduate

STAR Senior Contributor

 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 14,128
AC, BC exterior grade (no D face). No glue, you are trying to isolate the movement from the dimensional lumber from what is on top of it...glue would try to tie them together. Make sure you don't have any loose planks - add a screw if any show vertical movement. Make sure to use thinset under the cbu. For the plywood, ring shank nails or screws, avoid the joists, again, to decouple the two layers. My unprofessional opinion.
__________________
Jim DeBruycker
Not a pro, multiple Schluter Workshops (Schluterville and 2013 and 2014 at Schluter Headquarters), Mapei Training 2014, Laticrete Workshop 2014, Custom Building Products Workshop 2015, and Longtime Forum Participant.
jadnashua is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-05-2006, 02:29 PM   #14
Kevro
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 30
Almost done!

I'm now in Month 13 of the remodel, after several breaks, and I'm almost done. I want to thank everyone on the board for their time and expertise, not just answering my questions, but also for helping everyone else, since I was able to answer a lot of my own questions by searching other threads.

Thanks again!

Kevin


Here are some pitchers:
Attached Images
     
Kevro is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-05-2006, 05:23 PM   #15
Andrew21
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Long Island/Westchester, NY
Posts: 667
BEAUTIFUL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Andrew21 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:02 PM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC