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Unread 12-09-2004, 06:11 PM   #1
HerrBag
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Curbless shower with Kerdi

I need to quote remodeling a bath to provide a barrierless shower.

My experience is with custom pans using mud but the Kerdi pan system seems to allow a shallower overall pan.. I'm trying to not have to drop the floor and cut joists and reinforce, etc...

Am I correct in having seen that the Kerdi ST pan is about 1 1/2 " thick on the outside edge? If so, I'm thinking I could leave the existing tile floor in place (poured mud base), cut out the existing tile in the new shower area (its not in the same area as the current shower) down to the subfloor and build up from there, netting a barrierless shower.

I would scarify the existing tile and overlay Kerdi some distance out from shower pan area.... how far would make sense... 2-3 ft? There will be a Euro door covering the shower opening. The whole area would then be retiled..

If I needed a bit more clearance, I could remount the subfloor flush to the joists using sistered supports. Would 2x4 support blocks pass muster?


Thanks for your support

Bob
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Unread 12-10-2004, 09:24 AM   #2
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hoping for a few comments...
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Unread 12-10-2004, 09:31 AM   #3
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What's a euro door? Sorry I'm not more helpful.

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Unread 12-10-2004, 09:34 AM   #4
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Euro door/glass .. thicker style glass, usually 3/8 tempered.. can be installed without frames... gives a very clean look

Bob
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Unread 12-10-2004, 10:15 AM   #5
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Hi Bob, your idea sounds like it will work. Just make the mud base even with the existing floor and lay the kerdi down. You don't need the kerdi tray. Just use mud.
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Unread 12-10-2004, 10:29 AM   #6
HerrBag
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Mike..
Any reason not to use the tray or just preference for mud? I'm a bit of a sucker to try new techniques and materials (the wife hollers..."New tools too!!!")

Bob
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Unread 12-10-2004, 10:40 AM   #7
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Biggest reason to use the mud in lieu of the pre-formed Kerdi tray is adaptability. The Kerdi tray comes in pre-formed sizes, and while some cut-and-fit is possible (I'm told, haven used one), you can get a far better fit in a custom situation with a mud bed.

Dropping the subfloor onto 2x4 cleats is quite acceptable. Be sure your 3/4 ply is cut with the face grain perpendiculat to the joists, just as if you were laying full sheets.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-10-2004, 10:55 AM   #8
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Thanks CX, will do re: grain orientation

How far beyond the door "threshold" would you run the Kerdi? The Euro door will prolly have 1/2" gap at the bottom (and some at the sides)..

Bob
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Unread 12-10-2004, 07:49 PM   #9
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Bob, it seems like a couple feet would work, but I don't know how the room is going to be used. In certain cases the entire bathroom floor is waterproofed.
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Unread 12-10-2004, 07:56 PM   #10
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I was going to mention that John. I would do the whole floor with the kerdi.
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Unread 12-10-2004, 08:12 PM   #11
Davy
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Without a curb or slight rise where the curb would be, isn't the clear rubber flap on the bottom of the door going to drag the floor?
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Unread 12-10-2004, 10:00 PM   #12
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Do they make rising hinges for doors like that? Instead of having concentric hinge pieces, they are made at an angle. So, when you open the door, it rises some. I've seen them for normal entry ways, but not sure if they make them for glass doors. Seems like a good idea, though, if they don't.
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Unread 12-11-2004, 11:54 AM   #13
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Thanks John, Mike, Davy, Jim

The Euro doors usually don't have sweeps. I've never heard of rising hinges used in this application. If I continue the slope outside the door a bit (The shower is going to be corner set with 2 side wall supporting the door at 45), the door will have to be mounted a bit higher for clearance. THe rest of the bath is dry, so I'm thinking to econimize by limiting to several feet... tho if there is sufficient left over, then why not go further
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