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Unread 03-25-2012, 07:39 PM   #1
Nibbler
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Nibbler's Shower Project

I'm tiling a 3 wall bathtub shower enclosure and my tiles have built in grout spacers of 3/32 inches. I've read about using silicon caulking along the tub edge and on the vertical tile corner seams but most say to use a 1\4 inch gap. Is this standard practice or should I try to keep the silicon caulking width the same as my grout line widths? Wouldn't the different widths look at odds?
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Unread 03-25-2012, 08:41 PM   #2
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Hi Archie, welcome. I've never heard of that. Make the joints in the corners the same as the others if you want.
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Unread 03-25-2012, 09:13 PM   #3
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Archie, Never heard of that either. No matter how tight your spacing, you want at least an 1/8th at your changes of plane. Fatter is fine as long as it matches your tile spacing. Anything less than an 1/8th is tough to caulk properly and does'nt leave enough room for expansion/contraction.
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Unread 03-27-2012, 04:56 AM   #4
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Question Bathtub lip not flat

I'm tiling the three walls of my bathtub shower and I've noticed that not only is the bathtub not quite level but the tub lip is not flat either in that it sags down in the middle. If I do a bottom row of level tiles at the tub surface, the caulk line will show a varying width. I though it might be best to use a full tile at the lowest point and keep all the other tiles level at the top edge and trim them along the bathtub to keep the caulking gap the same width. This means my bottom most tiles won't all be all perfectly full size but reasonable close. Is this the proper or best approach or should I simply keep them level on the bottom using full size tiles everywhere and let the caulk width vary? There is no way now I can shim the bathtub and doing so would not eliminate the sag along the length anyway.
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Unread 03-27-2012, 05:15 AM   #5
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Question consistant tile spacing

I'm tiling a bathtub shower wall with 6X6 tiles that have built in spacers of 3/32 inches. I bought some 4x4 tiles that I want to use in creating an accent boarder around the tub but these tiles do not have the built in spacers. At the home depot I could not find 3/32 spacers but only 1/8. Even though it would seem to be an impreceptably small difference, to my eyes the tile spacing with the 1/8 spacers looks noticibly larger. Maybe with the grout in it, it would not be so noticible, I'm not sure. I guess my first question is can you buy 3/32 spacers and my second question is if not will this small difference ruin the appearance of my tile installation.
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Unread 03-27-2012, 05:29 AM   #6
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Question consistant tile spacing

I'm tiling a bathtub shower wall with 6X6 tiles that have built in spacers of 3/32 inches. I bought some 4x4 tiles that I want to use in creating an accent boarder around the tub but these tiles do not have the built in spacers. At the home depot I could not find 3/32 spacers but only 1/8. Even though it would seem to be an impreceptably small difference, to my eyes the tile spacing with the 1/8 spacers looks noticibly larger. Maybe with the grout in it, it would not be so noticible, I'm not sure. I guess my first question is can you buy 3/32 spacers and my second question is if not will this small difference ruin the appearance of my tile installation.
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Unread 03-27-2012, 12:49 PM   #7
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Question Marking the Cement Backerboard

This may seem like a silly question but what is the best way of marking my cement backerboard that will facilitate my best seeing the guide lines and not affect tile bonding when I'm applying thinset to the marked sections. Should I just use an ordinary pencil or felt pen or grease pencil or chalk line? Should I use a brightly colored line versus a plain lead line? A chalk line may be difficult for me because I'm working solo. Thanks for the previous responces!
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Unread 03-27-2012, 08:45 PM   #8
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A nice sharpie would work nicely
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Unread 03-27-2012, 09:46 PM   #9
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Unread 03-28-2012, 02:20 AM   #10
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Diamond Accent Border

I decieded to try and create an accent border using tiles in a diamond pattern around the 3 walls of my bathtub shower. Any suggestions on how to handle the transitions at the wall corners to make the pattern look as good as possible. Would it be OK not to worry about continuity of the pattern and simply start fresh again on each end wall?
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Unread 04-02-2012, 11:24 PM   #11
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Snap Cutter usage problems

I bought a Brutus snap cutter at the home depot and need some advice regarding its use. I'm having problems getting a consistant sized cut when snapping 2.25 X 6 tiles from a 6X6 starting tile. You would think this would be a very simple process with easily consistant results. Simply set the fence, clamp it down, butt the tile against it and score the cut. My problem is that the cut dimensions seem to get out of wack after several successive cuts. One end will be a 1/16 inch wider than the other end or the whole tile will shrink by a 1/16 inch. I'm not sure why this is occuring but with my narrow grout lines this will create an ugly problem. Perhaps the pressure on the tile when scoring it causes the tile and fence to move slightly. The cutting wheel and handle seems quite floppy and not very precise and the fence sucks being out of square when against the cutter body and the edge does not look perfectly straight. I already stripped the clamp down screw from overtightning to prevent movement and the raised edge around one of the screw holes prevents the fence from sliding and sitting smoothly when adjusting it. Do you think this cutter is just a piece of junk or am I doing something wrong or expecting to much from the tool. This is the first time I've ever used this type of tool. The tile also has built in spacers which complicate setting the tile against the fence straight edge. Don't want to try a wet saw because the glazing is really thin and I'm getting a lot of edge splintering. Any suggestions or ideas are appreciated.
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Unread 04-03-2012, 04:27 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archie
I bought a Brutus snap cutter at the home depot
...the cutting wheel and handle seems quite floppy and not very precise
...the fence sucks being out of square when against the cutter body and the edge does not look perfectly straight.
...do you think this cutter is just a piece of junk
Hi Archie - I also used a cheap snap cutter from HD. Same issues, but I used it where had the luxury of hiding the end cuts on large porcelain field tiles in the corner of the shower - the snap cuts there were quick and easy and rarely bang on, but I could bury them. For the "visible" cuts I used a wet saw. In my project thread, one of the pro's mentioned that certain tiles (porcelain in my case) may not be as amenable to the snap cutter as others. IMHO - even as an amateur - I'd say this HD tool is a piece of junk regardless. My (also cheap) wet saw (table model) did a better job but it was painfully slow to cut a single tile. But with patience and persistence I got straight cuts and never wrecked one on the saw. I used a wet stone on the cut edges and with a few passes it made a nice smooth edge where the crappy wet saw did a mediocre job.

Rentals aren't a reality for me (out in the boonies, and tackling this project / tile job a couple hours at a time - literally). So I did what I could afford to do and used both tools best I could. If I had any intention of tackling another tile project any time before I croak, I would almost rob a bank if I had to, just to invest in a good wet saw. In hindsight - I would buy a good tile saw, take whatever time I need to finish the job, then sell the saw on eBay or wherever. As you can see I'm definitely no pro, but just passing on my experience FWIW....
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Unread 04-03-2012, 08:00 PM   #13
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Snap Cutter Problem

It seems the problem with the inconsistant cuts was definatly due to the sloppyness in the bolt holding the handle onto the cutting wheel carriage. If I tightened it up the cutting wheel tracked straighter with more consistant reproducability. The trade off was that the handle now became stiffer and it was hard to tell how much pressure I was exerting against the tile. I eventually found an acceptable happy medium but in my opinion this brutus snap cutter is not engineered very well. Just thought I'd let other people know in case they had a similar problem!
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Unread 04-08-2012, 03:00 PM   #14
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Question Soap dish advice

Initially I deceided to buy soap dishes designed to be cut into the tiles and set with thinset. However most places I went to did not carry this design in stock and tried to sell me the glue on type telling me they were almost always used now a days by professional installers and when glued properly definatly would not fall off or leak. One place told me to use 100% silicon, and assured me it definatly would not come off. The Home Depot recommended a polyurathane adhesive call PF 700 telling me the silicon would not hold. A friend of mine also told me he had tried silicon and his dishes had fallen off. I'm trying to bond to the surface of glazed ceramic tiles. Right now I'm confused as to which route is best. Anyone know the real scoop about what type of soap dish is best and whether should I use silicon or polyurathane glue if the surface mount dish is used. Thanks for any clarification.
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Unread 05-13-2012, 02:52 AM   #15
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How to grout glazed ceramic wall tiles

I've never grouted before and I was hoping I could find some how to instructions on your forum. I have glazed ceramic wall tiles 1\8th gap and I have concerns about how to form the lines smooth and the timing and number of steps involved so the grout doesn't overharden and become difficult to work with or clean up properly. I would have thought that on a forum like this someone would have written up a general procedure for such a common activity. Last thing I want to do at this stage of my work is ruin my installation! Should I do only small sections and let it dry complete with cleanup before continuing with adjacent areas or would it be better to try and do it all at once? Thanks for any suggestions or pointing me to any links I may have missed.
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