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Unread 08-18-2011, 09:02 PM   #1
AK
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Seattle, WA
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Bath Surround Remod

Hi Everyone -

I ran across this site not too long ago and have spent countless hours reading. I find myself getting sidetracked reading about different topics when I'm doing research, so much info so little time..... This is a great site!

I've done a small floor tile install over slab with Ditra before, so I have a general understanding of handling and installing tile. This will be my first vertical tile job.

I'm prepping to do a tub surround remodel in our master bath. There's currently a really small standup shower next to a soaking tub. We're going to add a shower to the tub and turn the shower area into a linen closet (short on storage room).

The tub currently has a 2' high band of tile around it. So far I've demo'd the faucet wall and have added a new delta mixing valve and piping for a shower head.

Remaining Rough Game plan:
1. Remove the remaining 2 walls later this week.
2. Install 1/2" Hardibacker, studs are 16" oc.
3. Tape and thinset the joints (alkali resistant tape) and corners. Use Versabond or Flexbond?
4. Primer coat Red Guard after min 24 hrs for jointing thinset to dry. After primer coat dries, apply 2 more coats per manufacturer's recommended thicknesses for each coat. I do have a wet film gauge.
5. After Red Guard has cured, install ledger board and start installing first row of Marazzi tiles.
6. Grout with Spectralock after thinset has cured.

There's one issue I have, rest seems pretty straightforward. I do have a question about the Hardi to tub flange interface. Since I'm applying the waterproofing to the face of the hardi, does the hardi have to go over the flange. There is between 1/8 to 1/4" gap between flange and the studs. I don't want to build out the walls due to transition to sheetrock as we want to keep a smooth hardi to sheetrock transition. I was planning to hold the hardi 1/8" from top of flange and silicone hardi and flange joint. I will have the bottom edge of the hardi painted with Red Guard as well to keep a continuous membrane. Then install the tile over this to hide it all. Or I can shave 1/2 of the hardi thickness off to get it over the flange?

I'll try to post some pre-construction photos when I've reached the 3 post minimum.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions and help, it's much appreciated.

Alex
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Last edited by AK; 08-19-2011 at 08:30 AM.
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Unread 08-19-2011, 06:12 AM   #2
jgleason
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Hi Alex,

Just a note about photos - you can attach them anytime, no need to wait for 3 posts. Do attach them using the paperclip icon on the new message menu. The forum software will automatically resize them to fit the forum, as long as the images aren't bigger than 2MB each that is. If they are then you will need to do some resizing on your own, I use Image Resizer, an excellent free utility.

Last edited by jgleason; 08-19-2011 at 06:12 AM. Reason: typo
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Unread 08-19-2011, 08:51 AM   #3
bbcamp
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You can shave the back of the backerboard to achieve an overlap, or you can leave a 1/8" gap and caulk it after you apply the membrane. I'd to the former if using smallish tiles (say, smaller than 6" vertically) so they get the most support possible from the backerboard. If using large tiles, the second option is quicker for you.
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