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Unread 04-24-2010, 07:31 AM   #1
Two Crows
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Bathroom remod

I have a question on curb built..kind of limited on space (see pic) removed bath tub and have 29". Is it ok to build outside of curb on top of existing tile or do I need to remove do not have replacement tile to match. Planning on using 3 2x4's as base, then liner, mesh and mud will put a sizeable dent in 29" interior...
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Unread 04-24-2010, 08:48 AM   #2
jondon
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G,

I understand your space limitations. I don't see any reason why you couldn't build it on top of the existing floor tile, we have better ways to do it but I guess my biggest concern whether on tile or slab, what is going to secure your 2X4's?
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Unread 04-24-2010, 09:30 AM   #3
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I am going to tie into side walls and contruction adhesive to floor. 2x4's will be on concrete floor, just the outside of curb will end up on tile
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Unread 04-24-2010, 09:37 AM   #4
Brian in San Diego
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G,

I wouldn't use 2x anything for a curb on SOG. I would use bricks. Read this recent thread about the subject. There's some pretty good pichers in there as well.

The only problem with running your finished outside curb is if you (or future owners) ever wanted to replace the floor tile. But like is often said around here...your house, your dinero, your call.

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Unread 04-24-2010, 06:28 PM   #5
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i agree with brian i would use bricks.......easier to bond to the existing tile..and if you try and tapcon screw thru that tile and it is not secured to the slab proper it will possibly crack....then you will have a bigger issue


bricks and mortar mix is the way to go....plus it will never get rotten from water and is stronger..i use lowes solid brick to do curbs and seats...easy to cut and easy to set
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Unread 04-24-2010, 06:30 PM   #6
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also nice thats you did the backing for the pan in there...have ya thought about a kerdi shower or even hydroban for a waterproof shower....


the other weird thing I see is the bucket circle around the drain...someone was thinking way ahead when they poured the concrete
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Unread 05-17-2010, 05:21 PM   #7
Two Crows
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Mud deck dry??

Installed mud deck yesterday, some parts dry, sandy..Will suck up with shop vac. Only option to remove and repour? Guessing mix was too dry?
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Unread 05-17-2010, 05:31 PM   #8
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smear some thinset on it with a flat trowel, that should stop the powder...if that does not work then yea it must be too far gone.

Powdery mud can be from too much sand or mixed unevenly yes. but many times it is just from not using the right kinda sand or frequently from playing with it too much when your working with it..troweling it too much.

Most times it can just be fixed with a film of thinset..no big deal. Most likely it is savable.

Of course I have no idea how you mixed it or just how much can be sucked up in the shopvac. but it is hard to mix too dry if everything else is done correctly.

Either sends some pics or try the thinset and see how it looks before you tear it out. you may have either really screwed it up or you may just be describing a normal mud bed with a sandy surface...I can't really tell from your discription

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Unread 05-17-2010, 05:34 PM   #9
Two Crows
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So, float thinset over soft spots and then let dry before thinsetting and tiling?
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Unread 05-17-2010, 05:36 PM   #10
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Welcome, G.

I'm presuming your question was about a shower pre-slope or final mud bed and combined it with your original thread. If you'll keep all your questions here it will help people see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered.

If you can remove the mud installation with a vacuum I'd recommend you remove it all and start over.

Is this the pre-slope?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 05-17-2010, 05:41 PM   #11
Two Crows
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Final mud bed, some random spots soft and will suck up with shop vac. Pre mixed portland and sand (5-1) and tested as in Liberry pic, guess I just messed with it too much in spots??
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Unread 05-17-2010, 05:59 PM   #12
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Here's a pic
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Unread 05-17-2010, 06:45 PM   #13
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Yea sometimes you will get, if not mixed good enough, small spots that are just sand..if that is all they are then just fill them with thinset(float the whole floor) and let it dry and tile over it....as long as it is a solid surface after that then you will be fine. The pic looks like that is the case. It is common problem and is an easy fix.

If you have spots more then just small spots you might want to go over the surface again. That is if your trying to spead thinset over it and it is like troweling a gravel driveway..well thats another story..but I doubt thats your problem.

Removing final bed and possibly damaging the liner is last resort. another option is (if you can still raise your drain height, vacuum well then spread thinset over it and while that is still wet put another layer of mud down(embedding it into the wet thinset(1/4inch notches).."bondcoat". this new layer does not have to be as thick but needs to be enough to cover the thinset and be workable..3/4 inch should do it.

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Unread 05-18-2010, 04:01 PM   #14
Two Crows
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Red face

Decided to take CX advice...the price was right...sucked mud down to liner in large spot in pic, as well as @ drain...Will add a little more H2O next time...Thanks
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Unread 05-21-2010, 06:39 AM   #15
Two Crows
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Alright...mud deck redone! Tile question, here are pics of tiles that were "chosen" for the floor, they seem a little weak to me. A few were cracked in box, normal, they are graded a 1 (They look like wall tiles to me). Should "I " choose a different tile for floors. Maker Amer. Olean.

Just worried about cracking after install....
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