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Unread 10-09-2020, 11:56 AM   #16
Bdobz
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Can I rename this thread Brian's kids bath project? What I thought would be a couple layout questions has morphed into more and more questions. Of cousre it would haha
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Unread 10-10-2020, 02:07 PM   #17
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Hi Brian,

If you get cement board up with only a 1/16th variance you're doing what most pros can't do. The thinset should smooth things out for you.
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Unread 10-10-2020, 11:09 PM   #18
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Hi John, and a big thanks for the thread rename.

We got the back wall up today and I am very happy with the results. Wall is quite true and flat, Niche is level and true to the backer board.

I opted to place the backer just off the tub flange vs on the actual tub. (Mating to the existing drywall). I used some Window and Door adhesive 6" flashing tape from the tub up the studs as a vapor barrier since I did not extend the backer material over the flange.
Only worry I have now is the 3/4 inch amount of unsupported tile that will be past the backer to the tub. My buddy thinks we should build up some thinset down there to build up the void so the tile has backing. I am not so sure the thinset would adhear to the porceline coated tub and or the flashing tape I installed.

Any ideas of what to do there? Leave it open, fill with Silicone, or???
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Unread 10-10-2020, 11:09 PM   #19
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Eesh, sideways, sorry!
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Unread 10-11-2020, 01:14 AM   #20
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Could leave it as is and tile away depending on your tile size.
If you want to fill it: Swap out your silicone for some sikaflex (do your best not to make a mess though) or Fill it with thinset and fibertape.
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Unread 10-11-2020, 08:30 AM   #21
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Looks like you did not use a moisture barrier behind your wallboards, Brian, so you'll still need to cover the interior with a direct bonded waterproofing membrane of some kind in addition to that "flashing tape" you have used over the tub's tiling flange.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-11-2020, 09:46 AM   #22
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Thanks guys, yes I have a gallon of Regard to use after the taping and thinsetting the joints and seams. That leads me to the need for taping to the ceiling. Another buddy mentioned that I should have left a thin strip of drywall at the top edge to tape to. I am under the impression that it is not needed. I'd rather not add to the drywall finishing work if I was to tape the backer to the ceiling.
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Unread 10-11-2020, 09:54 AM   #23
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Leaving that strip of drywall at the top of the wall can be handy come time to finish things, Brian, but absent that it's best to tape the wall/ceiling joint. In your shower application if you plan to tile all the way to the ceiling you may be able to get by without doing that, but you may find that your local building code requires that joint to be sealed. Your code compliance official is not likely to accept the flexible sealant between the tile and ceiling to be an acceptable seal in that case. You may want to ask before you make a final decision.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-13-2020, 09:52 AM   #24
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Hi guys, another question....

My Rediniche is installed with ~1/16 inch gap between the adjoining backer and the niche(pictured sideways a couple posts above). The instructions say to fill the gap with Silicone and then apply tile setting material.
It is my understanding that thinset does not adhear to silicone.

We are thinking of taping the seams and imbedding with thinset. The whole wall will be receiving two coats of Redgard.

Do you guys think it would be better to skip the Silicone, but instead tape, thinset then seal with Redgard?

Thanks!
Brian
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Unread 10-13-2020, 12:36 PM   #25
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That would perhaps be a Redi Niche from the Tile Redi line?

I think that's a rather poor installation method on their part, but it's their product and theirs to say how it is to be installed.

Full disclosure: I've not found much about any of their products that is to my liking.

If I were to install that niche, and if I were to use the RedGard for my direct bonded waterproofing membrane, I would be inclined to follow the RedGard instructions rather than the TileRedi instructions regarding that gap, but I would also use the RedGard fabric over those joints.

You, of course, will do whatever you think is most prudent.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-30-2020, 09:34 AM   #26
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Hi guys, tiling is coming along nicely....slowly but nicely
Brings up a question. I plan on finisnhing the the two side walls at the outside of the tub with Schluter edge trim. Since I am a slow novice at tiling, I am wondering how I should tackle the finish trim. There is no way I am going to finish a side wall in one session so the option of slpping the moulding from floor to ceiling when the thinset is still wet is a no go.
A couple options I have thought about....

Fix the trim to the wall with a little glue and or temporary screws, and tile to it as i go up the wall. Basically have it in place dryfit and imbed it as I tile.

Tile the whole wall and scrape out a little thinset from the edges of the tile and then after wall is complete, smear some thinset on the moulding and slip into and behine the tiles.

Almost seems like my first idea would work better?

Option, 1, option 2 or another better option?

Thanks
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Unread 10-31-2020, 08:56 AM   #27
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1st idea, definitely, Brian. You won't be able to scrape out enough mortar after the fact to slip the flange of the trim behind it.
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Unread 10-31-2020, 10:43 AM   #28
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Thanks Dan, much appreciated!
Another couple things.

How close should the tiles be in the corners? 1/16th?

Also today I am going to install my mosiac accent strip to the back wall. I installed the field tiles above and below the strip so I have a guide while installing and pushing flat into place. The accent is about 1/16 thinner than field tiles. I read a technique on how make a depth gauge trowel out of a plastic putty knife I am going to try.

https://www.diytileguy.com/tile-accent-strip/

Unless there is a better method

Oh man, why are my pictures appearing sideways haha
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Unread 10-31-2020, 11:38 AM   #29
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The ceramic tile industry doesn't recognize any movement accommodation joint (your corner joint) smaller than 1/8th of an inch. You're free to use whatever you want, of course, in your project.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-31-2020, 11:42 AM   #30
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Good deal, than i guess an 1/8th it is. Thanks!
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