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Unread 09-16-2021, 03:49 AM   #1
TileGuyCanada73
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Best location for Wedi to drywall transition?

I've been doing a full bathroom remodel (to the studs in much of the room) and will be installing Wedi and drywall shortly. I have installed the tub and there will be a tile surround with the tile going past the edge of the tub by about 3-4 inches. I will use a Schluter metal edge profile.

I have three options:
1) Put the seam between Wedi and drywall about 1-2" past the edge of the tub (about 2" before the edge of the tile). With this layout, the tile will overlap the seam.

2) Put the seam exactly where the tile will end.

3) Put the seam a few inches past the edge of the tile onto the area that will be painted.

Which would you choose if you were starting with a blank wall so there were no constraints?
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Unread 09-16-2021, 07:18 AM   #2
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Steven, you want the waterproofing of your tub/shower walls to extend beyond the front of the tub down to the floor several inches at least. In your list, I would select #3.

That area, the "tub leg," is the most common area of failure due to water damage. Easy enough to treat the exposed edge of your Wedi board the same as the rest of your drywall beyond that tiled area.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-16-2021, 10:54 AM   #3
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Thanks. My plans call for the tile to extend beyond the front skirt of the tub by 3".

So then my order of operations would be:
1) Put up Wedi and drywall with a seam about 6" past the edge of the tub.
2) Cover the seam (acrylic mesh tape and hot mud?) and also apply mud to 3" of Wedi to cover all the bumps and smooth it out.
3) Sand it and paint to where the edge profile will land (line things up so that the profile will cover the first 1/4" of paint so that I'm not trying to cut a brush against the profile later.)
4) Tile as per normal.

Does that sound right?

On the other wall, it's just a plumbing wall so I need to figure out the tile/profile/drywall conversion at the corner but I believe I saw another thread on that one.
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Unread 09-16-2021, 01:00 PM   #4
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Pretty much. I 'd use regular drywall mud and I prefer paper tape when doing drywall joints.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-17-2021, 02:20 AM   #5
TileGuyCanada73
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Do you think I will need to apply a primer or blue grit to the Wedi to get it to take regular drywall mud?
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Unread 09-17-2021, 07:57 AM   #6
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I've never personally tried to use drywall mud over Wedi (Full disclosure: I've never used Wedi at all), but I'd expect it to work without a primer. You might wanna contact Wedi with that question.

I don't know what "blue grit" might be.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-17-2021, 11:06 PM   #7
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Steven,

Wedi calls for such a transition between a Wedi building panel and drywall that the building panel be primed before any gypsum based compound is used. This is referenced in the January 2021 technical handbook but I'm not able to find it in the latest handbook from August 2021. Anyhow...I've done several installs with Wedi and I've primed that joint and then finished it like regular drywall.
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Unread 09-17-2021, 11:23 PM   #8
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Thanks, Phil. I've not heard of that before. I hope you can find us a link to it.
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Unread 09-18-2021, 08:24 AM   #9
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It's on page 60/62 of the January 2021 Wedi technical handbook. Like I said, I'm unable to find the same reference in the August 2021 handbook. I've done it three ways...primed Wedi and then finished with joint compound, used Wedi joint sealant, used strait-flex tile tape. By far my favorite method was using the tile tape and Laticrete Multi-Max lite mud to set it.

Edit: Here is the passage from page 62:
In instances where a wedi Building Panel transitions to drywall panels, wedi reinforcing tape, or sealing tape or wedi Joint Sealant may be used. The drywall surface should be primed. Conversely, if mesh and gypsum plaster is used over such seams in dry areas, the wedi Building Panel surface must be primed.
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Unread 09-18-2021, 10:43 AM   #10
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That tile tape is interesting, Phil, haven't seen that before. Looks like it is a viable alterative to the usual manufacturers 5" band material.
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Unread 09-18-2021, 12:17 PM   #11
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Dan,
For dry areas, yeah...I like the tile tape a lot. It works great for inside and outside corners too. Not sure I'd trust it in a wet area though...it's a bit narrow at 2.25" vs the more common 4-5" wide membrane bands.
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Unread 09-18-2021, 01:10 PM   #12
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You're probably right, Phil, though it says it's water proof it is still pretty narrow.
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Unread 10-01-2021, 03:24 PM   #13
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Thanks All.

Finally ready to tile this weekend. They are 12*24 porcelain tiles with a marble pattern. I'm going with 1/8 grout lines. Trying to decide on the best layout. These are the two options I am narrowing in on. The red lines show the corners. The left panel is one of the ends of the tub (the end with the spout and shower,) the center panel is the backwall of the alcove, and the right panel is the other end of the tub. The blue area is the tub.

I think Option 1 is the most practical. I won't have any sections of tile that are skinny. I will only have one vertical grout line on each of the side walls.

I like how I could cut the tiles for Option 2 to wrap them around the corner but I don't like ending up with two skinny slices of tile on those walls.

I think Option 3 may look the best but I understand the concerns about lippage when doing a 50% offset on these larger tiles.

Any thoughts?
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Unread 10-02-2021, 07:09 AM   #14
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Check your tile for flatness, Steven, place two tiles face to face and see how much the top piece rocks on the bottom piece.

The 12X24's I installed in my master bathroom were very flat, I could have easily installed them with any offset, or none at all. The similar sized tile's I'll be installing in my guest bath, not so much.
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Unread 10-05-2021, 03:01 AM   #15
TileGuyCanada73
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Thanks. These ones are actually pretty flat. The ones for the floor are not quite as good.

We ended up going with a hybrid of Option 1 and Option 2. I was planning on using an offset but I quickly realized that I would face lippage problems due to the first row of tiles not being entirely on the same plane (bit of a mix-up on my first row - was so focused on getting the tile edge into the profile). So far, everything is looking great.
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