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Unread 01-15-2021, 08:58 AM   #31
bcs001
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It’s very educational to see the back and forth from the pros in these threads. Ive decided to use drywall but wanted to ask if there was any reason to choose the mold resistant material. For as much as I’ll need the cost is negligible but thought I’d ask.

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Unread 01-15-2021, 09:10 AM   #32
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You'll first hafta school some of us as to what mold resistant drywall might be. I'm familiar with alleged moisture resistant or MR board, usually green or purple or maybe some other color these days, but not mold resistant. But, then, I tend to be pretty out of touch these days.

But whatever it is, you don't need some. Should be no more likely to have mold growing behind the wall covered in Kerdi than in your living room wall covered in wallpaper.

My opinion; worth price charged.

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Unread 01-19-2021, 07:38 AM   #33
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Kerdi Shower Bench and Curb Slope

I’m moving on to ordering the Kerdi components and from the past threads here I see there is an issue with lack of slope on the bench and curb. I think the curb will be easy to fix with a table saw by cutting a small angle on the bottom surface before installation.

The bench seems to be a more difficult problem. If I use their pre-fabricated bench, can the slope be done adequately by just applying the thinset thicker in the back when setting the tile? Or can the bench surface get a mud bed pre-slope built up before tiling?

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Unread 01-19-2021, 08:54 AM   #34
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You don't want to use thicker mortar to achieve slope, Bruce, because water will get through the tile, the grout, and the mortar then just sit on top of the bench with no where to go.

You want to bench top pitched to drain before any water proofing method is employed.
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Unread 01-20-2021, 10:18 AM   #35
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Has anyone come up with an acceptable way to slope these Schluter prefab’ed benches? Maybe the bottom and rear edges of the vertical supports can be modified to add a small angle cut? I’ve seen the recommendations to use the Better-Bench which I could consider if the Kerdi bench slope is a real problem.
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Unread 01-20-2021, 11:32 AM   #36
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Has anyone tried a belt sander to do this? The heat might melt it rather than erode it, but it might still achieve the same end result. You don't need much to achieve 1/4" per foot.

It isn't an approved method, but you wouldn't need much thinset to achieve this, either. A big flat edge, screed it with the desired slope, let it cure a bit, then apply the membrane over it.

If you build it out of Kerdiboard, you could easily engineer in any desired slope, but you might need a compound miter for some situations, but you could probably achieve it with just thinset while assembling the panels. The same with setting the curb.
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Unread 09-20-2021, 12:45 PM   #37
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Kerdi Membrane Installation Repair?

Ive finally gotten back to my Kerdi shower project and have started to install the first 2 sections of membrane over regular drywall and ended up with a small area that didn't adhere adequately. I think I may have put the thinset on just a little light in this one square foot area and it is not bonded to the drywall.

Should I be concerned and just move on as the area around it is good or should I plan to do some kind of rework? My though was this area could be cut away and a repair installed with a minimum 2" overlap all the way around the 4 sides.

I still have 3 more sections to install and I'll plan to mix my thinset just a little wetter and make sure it is applied more completely. I did sponge the drywall down before thinset application to slow down the absorption into the paper layer.
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Unread 09-20-2021, 01:56 PM   #38
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If the area was small, I'd say leave it alone, but a square foot...should be fixed. Cut out that section of Kerdi. If the fleece is intact, you can reuse it as part of the patch, but you may just want to do one larger piece to eliminate the banding...the membrane is thicker than the KerdiBand, but will work...depends on the size and thickness of your tile you have planned, and the thickness of the thinset needed to install them whether that slight difference in thickness would be a problem.

Using Kerdiband or preformed corners works better in corners, because you tend to have multiple layers, but just lapping the main membrane over itself works, too, and was the only way before they came out with the corners.
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Unread 09-20-2021, 02:13 PM   #39
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I may have overstated the unbonded area. it is probably closer to a 6" x 6" area but I'll get a better look at it tonight. If I use 12x12 or 18x18 tiles, what would be an acceptable area to just leave as-is?
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Unread 09-20-2021, 02:43 PM   #40
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How close is it to a seam? My gut feeling is, anything more than maybe an inch or two is too much of a loose section, and, if it's within 2" of a seam, even smaller is an issue.

DOn't be afraid to wipe the drywall down liberally before spreading the thinset, and don't make the mistake of trying to set a huge piece of Kerdi. Until you have some practice, you'll take awhile to get things embedded, and, if you wait too long, the thinset can skin over, or, if the paper is not damp, get sucked dry.

Kerdi gets bonded because the thinset flows around the fleece, and that wont' happen if things are too dry. Once it flows around the fleece then cures, it locks it in place. It does not technically bond to the material, it's a mechanical bond, not a chemical one, because the thinset cures and becomes rigid...when it has flowed around the fleece, which is locked to the membrane, to get it off, you'd have to tear the fleece off, but it's not the same thing as what happens to bond a tile in place with thinset, at least at the macro scale. On the micro scale, onto the tile, the thinset grows crystals into micro crevices, and locks it in place.
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Unread 09-20-2021, 03:06 PM   #41
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The unbonded area is not near a seam but my gut feel is to fix it. I was pretty successful with my first 7-1/2' long piece on a flat wall but the second was in a corner and I struggled to get the wide side fully embedded. I also had an issue with my corner not tucking in tight but I know how to deal with that now I've done one. Definitely a learning experience.

Thanks.
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Unread 09-24-2021, 09:14 AM   #42
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So I got into the repair area and found that the Kerdi was adhered fine but there was a blister in the drywall. The paper wasn’t adhered to the underlying gypsum. Any ideas about how to best fix this? Cut the loose area away and repair with drywall mud then do a patch?
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Unread 09-24-2021, 10:28 AM   #43
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Don't use drywall mud behind Kerdi.

If it just a skim to fill a thin depression, I'd use thinset mortar. If it's deeper than 1/8" or so you might need some cement based patch.
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Unread 09-24-2021, 06:41 PM   #44
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How big again is this delamination?

If large, since the gypsum in the board will eventually have an issue with thinset used to fill the hole from cutting it out, and drywall mud typically is problematic because of the moisture in the thinset as you found, you need to isolate the gypsum in the drywall from the thinset (the intact paper normally does that). If it's a small area, you could use KerdiFix. IF it's a larger area, I'd prime it with something like Eco Prim Grip, which is an acrylic material that, I think, will adhere to the gypsum while isolating it from the effects of the cement in the thinset...double check with Mapei or the primer company you select.
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Unread 09-26-2021, 10:18 PM   #45
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Will the bubble lay flat if popped? I might cut an x, maybe 1 inch high, peel back the flaps, squirt some kerdi fix in there, fold it back up tight, and hit the cut kerdi with more kerdi fix or a patch.
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