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Unread 09-18-2021, 12:40 PM   #1
BowtechDan
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Extending A Shower Drain

Need some some advice on how to extend this drain out about 2' to the center. I pulled my tub out and am doing a walk-in shower. I'm thinking I need to go deeper down to the horizontal portion (unfortunately) of the drain, but open to suggestions. I think the threaded portion is to high to the top of the slab to screw any connection to and have a slope. Thanks.
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Unread 09-18-2021, 12:58 PM   #2
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Welcome, Dan.

The bigger problem, to my thinking, than being able to what you've got is that there is a P-trap somewhere below what you're seeing and you really want that to be located directly below your shower drain. Not doing so results in a long trap arm that can get coated with gunk and start to smell, not to mention that you'd never be able to retrieve anything from the trap or effective clean it out if that ever became necessary.

Moving the drain location and trap is s bit of a PITA, but not really all that bad if you get access to the proper tools. You need to break out enough concrete to give you room to do your cutting and connecting, but that needn't be excessive.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-18-2021, 01:08 PM   #3
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Welcome, Dan,

Looks to me like you'll need to rent a hack hammer and bust out some concrete in order to extend that drain by 2'.

There is a P trap down there somewhere at the end of that riser you see poking up. You'll have to excavate the area to get down to the P trap.

You'll have to remove the P trap from the horizontal drain pipe it's attached to. You'll need about 1" of exposed, and clean horizontal pipe available in order to glue on a coupler, then go in with your horizontal pipe extension, and maintain 1/4" per running foot of slope for the pipe. Then a new P trap and riser.

FYI though; while tubs typically use a 1.5" ID drain, shower drains, according to most, if not all, building codes use a 2" ID drain. Might wanna see what you have there and check with your county code office. Adapters are available to connect a 2" drain assembly to a 1.5" drain line but may not be code compliant in your location.
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Unread 09-18-2021, 01:28 PM   #4
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Thanks for the advice so far. I plan on renting a jack hammer when I can figure out a plan for this, AND installing a 4x4 for the 6' "half-wall". lol. I'm not sure where the p-trap is located. If you look at the first pic, the pipe is showing at the 11 o'clock position. About 4 ft away is the bathroom shower, so maybe it's under the closet in between???
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Unread 09-18-2021, 02:00 PM   #5
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The P trap should be at the bottom of that riser, Dan, but which way it turns to connect to a horizontal drain line is still a mystery at this point. Start digging.

BTW, be sure your slab isn't a post tension slab. If it is, be sure you don't cut a cable. If it is a PT slab, and you do cut one, be sure to run away.

Not sure how you're building said 6' half (pony) wall, but a 4X4 mightn't be the best choice. They are terribly hard to find straight, flat, and non-twisted. And if you do fine one like that it probably won't be that way by the time you get it home. You'll also need somethin between any wood framing and the slab to prevent moisture from the slab from being absorbed by the wood. Plastic or tar paper would be fine.
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Unread 09-18-2021, 02:50 PM   #6
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I looked closer and the horizontal pipe at the 11 o'clock position (OP pic #1), is actually curved going up into concrete, so the p trap is right there. Looks like I may have to go into the closet floor and dig it up on the other side of the wall. Great.
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Unread 09-18-2021, 05:03 PM   #7
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I'd wanna do a bit more digging before I made that decision, Dan. I didn't notice the apparent horizontal pipe in your photo before you mentioned it, but I'd wanna know exactly what was going on below that riser before I opted to start breaking concrete on the other side of the wall.

And what is the horizontal thing sticking out along side of the pipe in that photo. Oriented NW to SE. A piece of re-bar, perhaps, or something else.
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Unread 09-18-2021, 07:57 PM   #8
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CX,

The: And what is the horizontal thing sticking out along side of the pipe in that photo. Oriented NW to SE. A piece of re-bar, perhaps, or something else.

I believe is a piece of copper tubing trash thrown in the concrete when they poured. It's kinked over on one end.

The original pic may be hard to see so I etched out the pipe and it is pointing directly to the active shower 4-5 ft away and is curved up into the concrete.
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Unread 09-19-2021, 11:10 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan
Not sure how you're building said 6' half (pony) wall, but a 4X4 mightn't be the best choice. They are terribly hard to find straight, flat, and non-twisted. And if you do fine one like that it probably won't be that way by the time you get it home. You'll also need somethin between any wood framing and the slab to prevent moisture from the slab from being absorbed by the wood. Plastic or tar paper would be fine.
Here's the wall I had in mind. I thought of using 2x4's doubled all around as the frame, and then 5/8" threadall into the slab with plates under the nuts. Also include metal L-brackets to beef it up in the lower-right corner and upper-left. It would be about 36"W x 70"H. I figured there would still be too much wobble and then crack the grout/tile? But a 4x4 down in the slab would make it snug. Open to any suggestions. I looked at some 4x's by placing all sides on the floor at HD and some seemed to be okay with not much variation.
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Unread 09-19-2021, 02:51 PM   #10
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When dealing with 4x4 posts, you don't want pressure treated stuff when dealing with tile. On the slab, you may want to put some plastic down underneath. Have you done a water vapor test on your slab? Tape a 2x2' piece of plastic down tight and let it sit for a day or so and look for moisture buildup underneath.

Any of the lumber you buy will still have some moisture content. Depending on where it starts, and your home environment, as it dries, it tends to shrink and sometimes warp.

Had you considered building the wall out of Kerdiboard and bonding that directly to the floor and wall? Schluter makes metal channel to stiffen the edges and to help anchor it to surfaces...plus, when done, it's waterproof, doesn't absorb moisture, and tileable. You can laminate multiple sheets together with plain thinset to get it thicker if you wish.
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Unread 09-19-2021, 04:35 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim
Had you considered building the wall out of Kerdiboard and bonding that directly to the floor and wall?
No Sir I haven't because mainly I'm not familiar with it. I'm wanting to install the shower valve in the wall so one can turn on and adjust without stepping into the water. Would the kerdiboard allow that? I was thinking wood frame and backerboard sides, then tile. The frame will be bolted tight on the bottom and left wall; it's the upper-right corner where I would think have the most movement if it's not solid.
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Unread 09-19-2021, 05:05 PM   #12
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Dan, I've found that much of the secret to rigid walls that are not anchored on at least three sides is to make all the cuts very square, miter saw square if one is set up on site, and to use construction adhesive and screws to fasten it together. I like also to sheath at least one side with plywood, sometimes as thin as nominal 3/8th" if I can find a flat sheet. That, too, goes on with construction adhesive and screws. I would have no hesitation to build a 3x6-foot wall such as you show there in an area to be tiled.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-19-2021, 06:25 PM   #13
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If you need to run plumbing through it, I wouldn't try to make it out of Kerdiboard unless you could make it fairly thick with say three sheets, with the middle one maybe being applied in sections to make a cavity for the piping. Cutting the other sheet to allow the valve access should work.
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...A407&FORM=VIRE
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Unread 09-22-2021, 03:01 PM   #14
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OK, so I'm REALLY wanting to tie into the existing p trap and place the drain about 2.5' away. I was able to remove part of the existing fixture to lower the initial tie-in point and give me a better angle up to the future shower drain. Should I stop where I'm at, or should I risk it and try removing the reducer? Here's the before and after.
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Unread 09-22-2021, 05:01 PM   #15
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As was said before...a long run to the trap means lots of area that can accumulate crud and be a perpetual source of some nasty smells...that's why the trap is usually installed directly below the drain, and the shorter that riser is, the better.

If you insist on adding a long arm to your new drain location, don't try to use the existing fitting...cut it off and use something like a RamBit fitting saver to ream out the hub so you can cement in a new fitting. https://www.amazon.com/pvc-fitting-s...+fitting+saver
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