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Unread 03-27-2016, 06:52 AM   #16
wkumtrider
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Thanks guys. The rest of the plumbing in the house is PVC so I'm hoping the drain below the cast iron piece is pvc.
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Unread 03-28-2016, 11:58 AM   #17
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What would you guys recommend to break up the concrete around the drain? A rotary hammer or a demolition hammer? After reading about both I am leaning toward the demolition hammer. Seems it would work better than a rotary hammer.

Thanks.
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Unread 03-28-2016, 02:16 PM   #18
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Depends upon what you've got, Jason. Some rotary hammers will likely do a pretty good job in that applications, others not so much. Some demolition hammers are just too big for that more surgical type of work, others not so much.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-28-2016, 03:28 PM   #19
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Demo hammer can mean anything from a handheld rotary hammer tool set to recipricating (demo) mode to a 70+ pound jack hammer. I personally would opt for a handheld unit which will take more time and effort but give you more precission and control. I've never had the pleasure of digging out a plumbing stub incased in concrete (I'm just a DIY guy not a pro) but have used handheld units to bust out stucco while preserving the integrity of the paper and its amazing how precise you can be with one if you are carefull. Given that there is an old and possibly brittle pipe in there you are trying to preserve I would use the most precise tool possible and take your time to avoid a much bigger job .
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Unread 03-28-2016, 05:08 PM   #20
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The reason I asked the question is because when looking at the rental tools at the big box store, they have rotary hammers and handheld demolition hammers (look like a hammer drill). I wanted to rent one that would do the job and not take all day, but at the same time not destroy the entire slab! I need to chip away the concrete from the floor drain so I can replace it. I'll check them out hopefully one day this week when I find the time. Thanks for the advice.
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Unread 03-28-2016, 05:46 PM   #21
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Jason, I'd look for a rotary hammer that accepts SDS-Max drive bits. Should be heavy enough for your needs and of manageable size.

I have (I think) the Makita HR4010C and would find it adequate for your job.

Nice to have the rotary function as it's frequently very useful to be able to drill some holes around your perimeter before you begin hammering.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-28-2016, 07:22 PM   #22
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Thank you CX! I'll check out the rotary hammers.
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Unread 03-31-2016, 05:21 PM   #23
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Finally got around to start prepping the walls for backer board. Some of the studs are twisted, so they are not flush with the upper support and the floor plate. The one in the picture below is twisted at the floor, but flush at the ceiling. Are there any tricks or tips to try to straighten them out or is it best to replace them? The issue with replacing the studs is the wall is a load bearing wall. Can I place a stud right next to the twisted one and then remove it? Thanks again for all the help.
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Unread 03-31-2016, 05:42 PM   #24
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There's really no reason to remove it. Best to just treat that one as if it's not there and set one right next to it.
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Unread 03-31-2016, 06:19 PM   #25
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Ah, good call Kman. Thanks!
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Unread 04-02-2016, 11:18 AM   #26
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I got the concrete busted up around the shower drain. Fortunately there is PVC pipe under the cast iron drain flange. Looks like it is glued into the 4" PVC drain pipe. Should I dig more out around the drain so I can cut the drain flange off or can I cut from the inside of the drain to remove the flange? My only concern with widening the hole more is that to the left and right of the drain there is a load-bearing wall about 15" away. Don't want the floor to collapse!

After it is removed I'm assuming I will have to add an extension to get the pipe level or above the floor. Attached a pic for you guys.
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Unread 04-02-2016, 03:18 PM   #27
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The PVC pipe seen in the picture in the above post is 4" diameter. According to a post from another DIY forum, the PVC pipe is just a cover over the actual 2" cast iron drain. He said it was a sleeve over the cast iron drain so there would something to attach the strainer to when the concrete was poured. Has anyone seen this before? Should I go ahead and dig down to the ptrap and see if it is indeed cast iron?

Thanks for the help.
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Unread 04-02-2016, 03:32 PM   #28
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I would tend to agree with that assessment.

You should be able to determine what kind of trap you have by looking down the drain.

I've seen PVC drain flange on a cast iron pipe, but never a cast iron drain flange on a PVC pipe. But I ain't yet seen it all.
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Unread 04-02-2016, 04:04 PM   #29
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Thanks CX. I have looked down the drain but there is so much buildup that it is hard to tell. Due to the buildup inside the drain, the drain path is pretty small in diameter. This is why I think there is a 2" cast iron drain inside the 4" pvc pipe. With a 4" pipe that would be a ton of buildup! If it matters, the rest of the plumbing is pvc (3" main drain).
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Unread 04-02-2016, 07:26 PM   #30
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In that case I'd wanna dig out the trap and see what's going on. A drain that clogged up, 'specially a CI drain and trap would absolutely be something I'd wanna replace. Whole hellofa lot easier to do it now than after you build a nice new shower over it, eh?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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