Bathroom subway tile question.

[cbohaker]

Hello, I have a question on my bathroom subway tile job. I am very nervous and this is my first time so I want to make sure I get it right. I am installing 6" subway tiles and have attached a picture of my question. There is a lip where my tub bench is but the top of the tile doesn't meet to the top of the bench. I have attached a 2nd picture that may give you a better idea of what my thoughts are. I will have a laser level on the top of the full row of tiles to start and then i have a cut piece on the bottom to give me that lift. In order for me to put in that cut piece I will need to fill the gap between the tub flange and the small cut of tiles with thin set.. is this okay to do? Any suggestions would be great!


The laser line meets both top of tiles on the first image. On the second image it doesn't meet the top of the tiles obviously because it doesn't have the spacer tile cut out. I hope these images help my question make sense.. If more images are needed please let me know! Thank you in advance.

[jadnashua]

Industry standards call for any change of plane or materials MUST have movement accommodation. That usually ends up being caulk...so, if your question is can you fill in there between the tub and the first row with grout, the answer is no.

Thinset probably won't bond well with the tub's tiling flange, either. Also, you really want to continue the RedGard down over the tub flange and the screws you used to anchor it to the wall.

Normally, to tile over the tub flange, you want at least 1//2 of the tile to be supported on the wall...your sliver there would entirely be on the tiling flange. That would likely lead to the grout cracking over time, since the wall and the tub would move separately.

Hindsight is tough...it would be better if your deck was slightly higher so you'd be able to have the tile layout a little cleaner.

Usually people don't end up with a full tile right at the tub deck in that first row since it often doesn't end up quite level...it should be, but it often isn't, and you need to cut a little bit to make the tile conform. YOu also need to consider how high you're going to take the tile, as you don't want a sliver up at the top, either. So, both the bottom and top rows may need to end up being cut (if you're going to the ceiling with the tile, the ceiling is rarely perfectly level, either).

So, maybe a picture taken from further back to get an idea might help out the best way to handle this.

[Carbidetooth]

Is there a shower in the space or tub only? Perspective photo as Jim suggested would be good.

[cbohaker]

Attached are a couple other pictures. This is a tub/shower. Its my only bathroom so we have been using it as just a bath for the time being. Thank you all for the quick responses.

[jadnashua]

While it might be a pain, it looks like you might be able to build the height of the deck up some, re-waterproof it to remedy the tile layout issue.

That deck should also have some slope back into the tub...if there isn't any now, that would be a good time to remedy that problem, too.

[cbohaker]

The deck does have a slope towards the tub. Is there anyway around having to build the deck up? I used all my red guard and my wife is harping on me to get this done.

[Carbidetooth]

The RedGard to tub deck transition needs to be completely waterproof.I'd suggest a sheet membrane. RedGard won't reliably do it.

At least as important is your plan around window. Again, your waterproofing needs to bridge the area between tile backer and vinyl window frame.

I'd say lining up grout lines is down the list somewhere.

[cbohaker]

I have the pvc trim boards cut out. Should I tile under the window trim or up to it?

[jadnashua]

Doesn't sound like your plan for the window is very sound.

FWIW, if you end up with leaks, tearing things out and fixing them later will take a lot more time and money than doing it right the first time.

[Davy]

You'll probably have to show us your window trim. You might end up needing more Redgard at the window, depending on how you plan to waterproof it.

I would find the lowest part of the tub ledge and start full tiles there and cut in the rest of the way around. From that point figure out the approximate size cuts at the bottom and top of the window and also at the ceiling.

[cbohaker]

Attached is a picture of the window trim. The bottom hasnt been cut out yet but will be the same as on the sides. What would your suggestions on water proofing the window?

[cbohaker]

I would think the trim nailed up and caulked would water proof? But that's why I am here to get suggestions from people who know what they are doing. Also, when I asked if I should tile under the trim or just up to the trim this should give a better visual.

[Carbidetooth]

It won't be waterproof long term, not to mention that the PVC will be the least durable and scrubbable surface in your shower.

I think it helps if you look at the whole installation as needing to be waterproof before any tile, caulk, grout, trim or anything else is applied.

In homebuilding in general, and showers in particular, depending on caulk to be the solitary waterproofing component is a recipe for failure.

It looks like you've got an old window frame with a new replacement window inserted? Too much differential movement, too many disparate components, too many paths for water entry. Overall a bad idea.

[Davy]

I agree, a low window will catch a lot of water and allow water into the wall eventually. Part of my plan would have been to remove the window or exchange it for a 12x36 window at the top. Those still have to be waterproofed well but they catch very little water. They also give more privacy yet still allow for fresh air and light.

[cx]

Originally Posted by Peter

In homebuilding in general, and showers in particular depending on caulk to be the solitary waterproofing component is a recipe for failure.

Difficult to emphasize that enough, but we try here. Not possible to over emphasize it.

My opinion; worth price charged.