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Unread 07-28-2020, 04:34 PM   #1
frankdelaglio
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How to measure and mark tiles in a herringbone?

Hello, I've a fairly straightforward problem. I dont know how to measure and mark where to cut the floor tiles in a herringbone pattern. There's plenty of good instruction on how to mark tiles and use templates, but i can't figure out the simplest way to mark up a herringbone pattern. I'm tiling the floor of a small, 100 sq ft room, with 12x24 porcelain tiles in a herringbone pattern. I dont know how to mark the tiles to be cut at the walls. Please help!
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Unread 07-28-2020, 05:10 PM   #2
Davy
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That's a broad question. Herringbone can be run square or on a 45 with the room. Usually it's run on a 45 so you see the pattern. So, you mark and cut the tiles on a 45.
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Unread 07-28-2020, 06:12 PM   #3
frankdelaglio
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It's run on a 45 but either I didn't center and square correctly or the walls aren't entirely straight because the angle at the walls isn't 45. How do I mark the correct angle?
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Unread 07-28-2020, 06:23 PM   #4
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If you layout the floor correctly and the walls are fairly straight and square, the cuts will repeat the same size. If you layout the pattern out of square then the cuts will get bigger or smaller. I like to layout the pattern parallel with my longest wall whenever possible. Using a chalk line is very handy.

To mark a 45 on tiles, I use a speed square. They also make an adjustable square that has a wing nut to change the angle. You can set the angle you need and transfer that angle onto the tiles.
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Unread 07-28-2020, 06:38 PM   #5
frankdelaglio
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An adjustable square is exactly what i need! Thank you Davy.
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Unread 07-29-2020, 11:54 AM   #6
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Getting started square is key to a easier install. And I see Davy already answered your question
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Unread 01-29-2021, 06:15 AM   #7
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Shawn,

I’m getting ready to do a herringbone pattern on a shower wall, the 5’ wall. I like your idea of wood stops to get things started. Would you do the same thing for the first row on a shower wall? Or use something else. Guess I could use some plywood squares.
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Unread 01-29-2021, 07:46 AM   #8
Davy
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I avoid poking holes in shower walls although they can be patched. You can draw lines and use a non-sag thinset to help hold the tiles in place.
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Unread 01-29-2021, 04:45 PM   #9
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What are you doing for waterproofing?
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Unread 01-29-2021, 07:08 PM   #10
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For shower walls I will lay the wall out on the floor. I would then make a template of the wall. Lay the template over the tiles laid on the floor. Cut all the tiles then install.
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Unread 01-29-2021, 07:25 PM   #11
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Hmmm I like the idea of laying it out on the floor. At least the first few rows to get my layout down.
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Unread 01-30-2021, 08:10 AM   #12
Davy
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That will work as long as you make everything accurate.

When making the cuts in the corners, I like to keep the cut-offs and fold the pattern onto the next wall. It's kinda hard to explain but when running herringbone on walls, I usually cut some strips of tile and stick them in the very corner. This way the back wall cuts doesn't tuck back behind the end walls but rather come together nicely in the corner. If the tiles are 3/8 thick, the strips I mention need to be 3/8x3/8. The strips will be hidden but it gives me something to lean my tiles against. Wedges are handy and a non sag thinset is nice to use.
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Unread 01-30-2021, 08:27 AM   #13
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I understand what you mean, Davy, but does that method provide enough bonding area for the silicone caulk to adhere to?
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Unread 01-30-2021, 08:44 AM   #14
Davy
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I've never had a problem doing it that way but I usually grout my corners.
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Unread 01-30-2021, 09:00 AM   #15
Davy
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Just like any pattern, you want to make sure to start off level at the bottom. If it starts out out of level at the bottom the cuts in the corners won't be the same as you go up. That is if your walls are plumb. If you're going to use the cut-off pieces to fold onto the end wall, you might need to number them so they mate back up. Herringbone can be a PITA and definitely takes longer to install.
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