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Old 07-16-2019, 10:16 AM   #136
gslenk
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Next "issue", I am not sure if I will actually go with a frameless glass door, or a curtain, but I want to keep the option available (I did install double studs where the glass/door would mount). My accent strip (the pencils in particular) could stick out at least 1/8" up to 3/16". The door hinges would be mounted on the wall where the green line is drawn, and open outwards from the shower.

This is what I think my options are:
1) Install as planned, and if a glass door happens, hope for some sort of allowed clearance, and if not, grind/notch/ramp part of the installed pencils, praying and cursing the whole time.
2) End the pencils near where the door would be, continue with a taller slice of black marble to finish the accent flush with the wall.
3) Notch the glass door to clear the pencils.

Hopefully the attached pics help a bit.
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Old 07-16-2019, 09:53 PM   #137
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Hey Lenny, where'd you get that cute corner vanity?
Nice work on your shower!
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Old 07-17-2019, 08:07 AM   #138
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I got the vanity from home depot, had to order it since they don't regularly stock them.
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Old 07-17-2019, 06:19 PM   #139
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Lenny, I would go with #2, make the first 4-5 inches out of solid black, leaving out the pencil rail in that area.
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Old 07-18-2019, 05:18 PM   #140
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That accent was a major pain, but looks good except for one snag... I though I got everything lined up all nice then when I went back one of the pencils is badly out of line.

After the panic subsided, wooden block and a rubber mallet, a few sharp blows from each side, it eventually worked loose, and in one piece!
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Old 07-19-2019, 07:45 AM   #141
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I'm at a bit of a crossroads about how to approach the curb.

1st dilemma (strength):
The wedi "lean curb" is 2" wide, plus ~1/2" of tile and thinset on each side. The curb topper is planned to be ~3.5" wide, .75" thick (standard countertop thickness). Is this going to be strong enough to support natural stone (granite)? Anyone pull this off and feel good about it?

The next two dilemmas are somewhat dependent on the first in my opinion (hopefully not).

2nd dilemma (curb under/through wall tile, or butted against wall tile):
This kind of depends on the strength idea. If a replacement is necessary, is it worth the aesthetic loss to make potential future replacement slightly easier?

3rd dilemma (2pc or 3pc curb):
Due to the design of the curb (poor planning/luck) I have the option to make it 3 pieces, the 3rd being a small pie shaped sliver almost, or just cut the 2nd piece to cover it all. It seems to me the 2pc would be a cleaner and stronger install, but more complicated to actually pull off cleanly (exposed tile edge). The 3 piece seems less strong, but easier to get a decent result.

So the choices overall seem to be:
1) 3 pieces, run under the wall tile.
2) 2 pieces, run butted up against the wall tile.

Hopefully the pics help...
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Old 07-19-2019, 08:07 AM   #142
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The 2cm x 3.5 topper will support way more weight than it's ever likely to see given well distributed thinset mortar underneath. I've done many this way.


Concerning 2 or 3 piece. Technically those corners will be compound cuts because of slope to drain. The only way to achieve that is mitering. Could it be done with 2? I imagine so, but why?

I have my fabricator cut and polish a 3.5" by a little over overall length and I cut to fit on site. Can be cut on wet saw, sometimes with a helper supporting outboard end if long. Yours doesn't look to be that way.
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Old 07-19-2019, 08:31 AM   #143
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So I am guessing a 1pc is way out of the options list? I assume fabricators can't grind/polish me a slope on top

I was originally planning like you said, getting a ~4ft by 3.5" stick and making the miters myself, fine tuning them for slope etc.

But now I am kind of thinking I mock this thing up on some scrap board, they cut and finish the edges in one piece to match the mock-up, then I cut the one piece on angles through the corners. The saw blade would give me my gap, I could miter further if necessary. Seems to make sense in my head, but might be a recipe for disaster.
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Old 07-19-2019, 08:43 AM   #144
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Also what order of operations makes the most sense here?

Install curb side tiles and bottom row of shower walls, and the "T-cutout" tile on the shower wall (right side). Then install curb, then the left side cut around the curb?

Also, for strength, should I be aiming for more thinset or less thinset on top of the curb to bond the granite to the wedi?
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Old 07-19-2019, 01:15 PM   #145
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Beveling top surface could be done. I imagine big dollars, but I've never asked my stone fabricator. His standard reply is "anything is posslible, it just takes money".


It's often a timing thing for me as I can have curb on hand when I need it. No reason you couldn't template and have it all precut. Perhaps fine tune the miters on site with grinder.


95% of the time I install topper last. Usually easier to fuss with tile than topper, plus I think it looks better. I tile both sides of curb and set tile height and slope with a torpedo level. When setting topper, I dry fit all, often putting a tile spacer flat to keep from sinking. I mask off tile edges, comb on thinset and carefully drop topper into place. Fine tune with wedges.

Edit to add. This particular level has mark that indicates 1/4" per ft.. Handy for slope on plumbing as well.
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