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Unread 05-01-2022, 08:35 AM   #31
ss3964spd
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Always helps to have more eyes on something. Sometimes we're too "close"! I assumed you were on city water - being in Baltimore. Glad you don't need to re-plumb anything!
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Unread 05-17-2022, 08:48 AM   #32
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I’m still working on some of the components that need to be adjusted... or added to the bathroom remodel.

While I was test fitting the Wedi shower floor, there was about a 3/8” to 1/2" gap between the side of the Wedi shower floor and the wall studs. I installed some 3/8” thick furring strips (that I cut from 3/8” Exposure 1 plywood) onto the wall studs along one side of the bathroom to fill this gap. I also installed some blocking around the base of the Wedi shower floor.
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I also added some additional wall studs that will be located behind the new shower doors and where the Wedi wall board and drywall will meet.

I plan on installing some 2” wide bullnose tiles to finish the sides of the shower wall.
QUESTIONS:
A - Where the Wedi wall board and drywall meet, how much of the bullnose tile should extend onto the drywall?

B - When installing the bullnose tiles, should the finished edge of the bullnose tile be pressed down flush with the drywall?

C - Or should small gap be made between the bottom of the finished edge of bullnose tile and the drywall?... and should this gap be filled with grout or caulk?
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Unread 05-17-2022, 03:52 PM   #33
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A) This is completely your call. Sometime I’ve stopped on the backer board and mudded and tape the board to blend into drywall. Other times I’ve taken the tile out several inches on the drywall

B/C) you’ll find the thinset will keep the tile spaced a bit off the wall. The joint is typically grouted.
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Unread 05-22-2022, 08:45 AM   #34
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PC, Thanks for the feedback!

Since I am installing new backer board (Wedi) and drywall in this bathroom, I can adjust the position of the seam between the two walls as needed (based on my shower tile layout)... so I'll probably plan on overlapping the bullnose tile onto the drywall by about 1/2" for a clean look.
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Unread 05-23-2022, 01:14 PM   #35
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I have a new question regarding grout for the shower walls (for a first time DIY'er shower install).
  • NOTE: I placed 12 of the ceramic tiles I will be using for the shower wall "edge to edge" to form a square and measured the square at both diagonals... and both measurements were exactly the same. So the tiles seem to be very consistent in size and shape.
A - Would you recommend a 1/16" grout line... or a 1/8" grout line between the shower wall tiles - size 10" x 16" ceramic tile?

B - And based on the recommendation above, is it best to use a "Sanded"... or an "Unsanded" grout for the shower walls?

C - And since this is my first shower install and grouting job, would you recommend that I stay away from any "Rapid Setting Grout" (pot life/working time of 30 minutes or less)?
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Unread 05-24-2022, 08:47 AM   #36
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Mike,

A) Up to you. It sounds like your tile would support a 1/16th joint. Sometimes changing the grout joint size can eliminate "skinnies" (thin rips of tile). I prefer a smaller grout joint where possible, but that's just my opinion. I used 1/8" on the floor tiles, and 1/16" on the wall tiles in my master. I wanted 1/16" for the floor but using 1/8" closed a gap that needed closing.

B) Sanded whenever possible. You'll work harder to get sanded grout into a 1/16" joint, but not that hard.

C) For those who lack experience, of which I'm one, rapid setting mortars and grouts can be a challenge. You can minimize the anxiety by mixing smaller batches. I recently grouted the floor in my guest bath (1/16" joints) with a rapid setting grout but had resolved from the beginning to mix small batches. I think I mixed 4 or 5 batches for a roughly 45 square foot floor. Yeah, I am just that slow. If you go that route you'll need a scale to measure the grout and water. Takes a while but the process does work and is repeatable - thus ensuring color consistency between batches.
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Unread 05-24-2022, 07:22 PM   #37
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Dan, Thanks for the reply.

The wife and I do like the look of the 1/16" space between the shower wall tiles (compared to the 1/8" space), but I did not want to cause my self issues by making the these gaps too small.

The grout I was planning on using was Ardex FL Sanded (this grout is supposed to have a "creamy" texture when mixed with water). This grout states it's good down to a 1/16" space... but it does have a pot life/working time of 30 minutes, so I will take your advice and carefully mix smaller batches while grouting.

The reason I was unsure of what type of grout to use (sanded vs unsanded) was in doing some research, I saw several articles/videos that stated you should use an "unsanded" grout for the shower walls, especially when grouting smaller gaps... followed by other articles/videos saying to use a "sanded" grout .

Just curious... what are the benefits of using a sanded grout (vs an unsanded grout) for a shower wall?
  • I did read that sanded grout is more durable and less prone to shrinkage vs unsanded grout.
Once again, thanks to all for your advice and suggestions!
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Unread 05-24-2022, 10:39 PM   #38
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Mike, the tile industry standards call for unsanded grout in joints up to 1/8th" in width, and sanded grouts for joints 1/8th" or greater.

Sanded grout is much stronger than unsanded and less prone to shrinkage. Many of the newer grouts on the market advertise use in joints from 1/16ths" to 1/2" or greater. Many grouts are much different from those in use when the ANSI standards were written.

I have always used sanded grouts so long as I was able to force them into the joints without damaging the tile.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 05-26-2022, 11:41 AM   #39
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CX, Thanks for the additional information.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CX
Sanded grout is much stronger than unsanded and less prone to shrinkage. Many of the newer grouts on the market advertise use in joints from 1/16ths" to 1/2" or greater. Many grouts are much different from those in use when the ANSI standards were written.
I agree that many of the articles posted on the internet (sanded vs unsanded grout) may be based on older grout technology. I also spoke with Ardex Tech Support and they stated that I would be ok with using the Ardex FL grout (sanded) in a 1/16" grout joint.

Since both you and Dan recommended grouting with a sanded grout, that is how I will proceed. I plan on mixing a small batch of the Ardex FL grout and testing it on a sample ceramic tile set-up to confirm the sand does not damage the tile... when I get to that process, still have more install work to do.

Thanks again for your assistance!
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Unread 07-23-2022, 08:57 AM   #40
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I’m still here! I just got sidetracked by a couple other projects that came up since my last post… but I’m still moving forward with this bathroom remodel.

I worked on getting most of the new bathroom wiring in place and connected.
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I also had to install some new HVAC ductwork for the bathroom I am working on because the original ductwork would have interfered with the drywall ceiling that will be installed in the basement (next project after completion of bathroom).
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The new ductwork will be hidden behind the studs for the basement drywall.

Before I could move further on the bathroom project, I had to remove the copper drain pipe that was going into the cast iron hub leading to the septic tank in order to run the new PVC drain pipes for the bathroom remodel. I read a lot of online articles and watched several YouTube videos on how to do this… but I was still a little bit hesitant because if I mess this up, the entire home plumbing system would not have any connections to the main drain and I would need to call a plumber. It turned out not to be that difficult and I was successful with this project!
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I needed to increase the main drain pipe size from 3” to 4” to handle the DFU’s (drainage fixture units) for a basement bathroom ejector pump that will be installed in the future. Once I had the correct size Fernco donut in place, I hammered the 4” PVC pipe into the rubber donut within the cast iron hub and cemented the 4” PVC Sanitary Tee into place. Once the new SanTee was in place, I was able to reconnect the home's main drain pipe and complete the first section of the bathroom drain (toilet hub).
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When I was happy with the placement of the PVC toilet hub, I cemented everything into place and drilled holes for the toilet hub into the last sections of subfloor that needed to be screwed into place.
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I also installed some wood blocking between the shower wall studs (and around the toilet) so that it would be a lot easier to install support bars if they are ever needed in the future.
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Unread 07-24-2022, 08:20 AM   #41
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Lotsa work, Mike, but looking good. Nice touch leaving the toilet paper holder in place.
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Unread 07-25-2022, 07:49 AM   #42
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Thanks Dan! This bathroom remodel has been a real learning experience.

LOL... The toilet paper holder is one of the very few things in this bathroom that survived the demo process.
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Unread 08-17-2022, 01:48 PM   #43
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I finally completed installing all of the drain and vent pipes for this bathroom.
I also installed new CPVC water supply pipes.
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A special thanks to all of the members on the “Terry Love Plumbing Forum” that provided me with guidance during this part of the project!

NOTE:
You may have noticed that both water supply lines for the bathroom sink are to the left of the drain pipe.
Since this a small bathroom, I will be installing a 30” vanity with a door and draws. The typical Lav plumbing rough-in would not work due to the space available/layout within the vanity. Since all of the plumbing is new, I installed the supply and drain lines (as shown below) to provide easy access to the supply line shut-off valves.
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Unread 08-22-2022, 08:51 AM   #44
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There was one last thing I needed to do before starting the rebuilding process of this project… make room within the shower wall studs for a niche.

Once I figured out where the niche would be located, I cut and notched one of shower studs. I choose to mount my horizontal niche studs the way shown below. This left me with the studs positioned correctly for the wedi niche fasteners, but also gave me some “up and down” adjustability when doing the final install of the niche.
I want the bottom of the niche grout line to align with the shower tile grout line (I've seen too many YouTube videos where the installer made a measurement/math mistakes and the niche and shower tile grout lines were off).
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With this step completed, I can now start to rebuild this bathroom!

I began by mixing up some modified thinset and installing the wedi shower pan. After the shower pan was securely placed in the thinset, I checked the pan for level along the length and width… both looked perfect. I then placed some weight evenly across the shower pan and let the thinset setup overnight.
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Unread 08-23-2022, 05:52 AM   #45
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It can take such a long time to get to the point of actually rebuilding, it's a milestone!
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